Update: As of Dec 16, 2014, guests are reporting a two-hour wait for tables during the week. Combine that with 45 minutes to cook a deep-dish pizza, and you're not going to be eating in a hurry. Caveat diner.

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One of the culinary world's eternal battles is between the cities of New York and Chicago, and the topic is pizza. In one corner you have the svelte New York-style pizza, thin and flexible, topped only with sauce and cheese, and perhaps a meat or two. In the other corner is the burlier Chicago-style, a thin, pastry crust piled high with cheese, lots of toppings, and finished with a chunky tomato sauce. It's a classic battle, the scrappy wisecracking dancer vs the heavy, no-nonsense bruiser, both fighting for bragging rights and a place in your belly.

Residents of New York and Chicago will debate endlessly about which is better, with their home town version typically getting the nod. Those of us in other cities often make do with substandard versions of these regional favorites, in many cases showing little resemblance to the original. (Pizza chain "deep dish" pizza, I'm looking at you. No self-respecting Chicago deep dish would have a crust that's thicker than the toppings.)
In this epic battle, there are established combatants who have upheld each town's banner, often for decades. New York has Grimaldi's, Patsy's, Totonno's, Lombardi's, Di Fara, and other classic joints. Chicago favorites include Lou Malnati's, Gino's East, Uno, Pizano's, and Giordano's.
Here in the Woodlands, New York-style pizza has been well represented. Straight from Brooklyn comes an outpost of the Grimaldi's empire. RC's Pizza brings NYC cred due to RC Gallegos's decade in the pizza business in Brooklyn. And local favorite Brother's also serves pizza with a strong New York accent.
But Chicago-style pizza has been sadly missing from our community, and from the entire Houston area. Many years ago Pizzeria Uno opened a couple of stores in the Houston area, but they were disappointing, not coming close to the Chi-town originals.
But one of the big names in the Chicago pizza world has moved outside of Illinois, and their first location happens to be in Texas. Gino's East has opened in the Houston area, and the Woodlands is lucky enough to be the first stop. The brand new Woodlands store, located on I-45 between Woodlands Parkway and Sawdust, will be the flagship of the Texas operation, also serving as a training base for future locations.

So how's the food?
We visited Gino's East as their guest at a friends and family preview, two days before the grand opening. As expected, they were still working out some kinks, but Gino's East has been operating since 1966, so they've got their processes down to a science. For the Woodlands location, they've installed six (!) classic Blodgett deck ovens, the gold standard for pizzerias around the world.

One big difference between New York and Chicago-style pizza is the volume. A hungry pizza lover can easily eat half of a large NY-style pizza, but a small Chicago-style deep dish feeds two people easily, and a large feeds 6 or 8.

So on our recent visit, we ordered a small deep-dish, and selected the Meaty Legend,


one of Gino's East's most celebrated pies, and one that we'd sampled years ago in Chicago.

The Meaty Legend has mountains of pepperoni, Italian sausage, Canadian bacon, and bacon, in addition to the thick layer of cheese, chunky tomato sauce, and golden cornmeal crust.

These thick pizzas don't cook fast; our server estimated 45 minutes to an hour for it to cook. Since we ordered a small, it cooked a bit faster, but expect a wait when you order one of these pizzas made to order.

Ours appeared in about twenty minutes, and the server wrestled out a slice.

Biting into it, we were brought back to our last visit to Chicago. The generous portion of meats had a swanky, porky swagger; the spicy pepperoni and sausage offset by the milder Canadian bacon and smoky breakfast bacon. The rich mozzarella was smooth and melty, and the mild, chunky tomato sauce added a needed hit of acid to the rich toppings. The slightly crispy cornmeal crust brought a hint of sweetness to the mix, and the result was exactly how we remembered the Superior Street original; rich, flavorful, mild, balanced, and very tasty.
We also sampled a couple of starters from the surprisingly broad menu. Our favorite was the Crispy Brussels Sprouts & Bacon - roast Brussels sprouts seasoned with olive oil and garlic, topped with chunks of very thick bacon.
The dish was nicely earthy and tasty, with the slightly crunchy Brussels sprouts kicked up by the garlic and bacon. We couldn't help but want a little more seasoning; perhaps some kosher salt and cracked black pepper. But as presented, the dish was one we'd order again.
Gino's East is located in a building that has housed several different restaurant concepts over the years; the last was the unfortunate Bikini's brestaurant. But they've done a nice job of renovating the space, turning it into a warm, inviting setting.
Upon entering the building, you're greeted by a prominent bar, which looks to be a nice happy hour spot, or a great place for solo diners to enjoy a Chicago-style lunch or dinner.
We've been fans of Gino's East since we first sampled their pizza years ago in Chicago. We're excited to have an accurate version of this classic Chicago pizza joint in the Woodlands, and plan to return soon.
Gino's East | 25657 I-45, The Woodlands 77380 | www.ginoseast.com

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Back when I lived in Austin, I dined frequently with my good friend Bruce, a talented amateur chef who was very knowledgable about the restaurant industry. He had one rule he always recommended when dining: Order what the restaurant is known for.

It's a rule that has served me well throughout the years. But sometimes, it's a rule that begs to be broken.
Recently, I was contacted by RC Gallegos, owner of RC's Pizza. RC is a native Texan who moved to Brooklyn and spent a decade there learning the pizza business, and who brought his knowledge and experience back to the Lone Star state. What I heard from him was not what I was expecting.
"I've got a new Italian beef sandwich. You need to come try it." 
RC's is one of my favorite pizza places, and serves a very credible NYC-style pizza; perhaps the most authentic in the entire Houston area. But Italian beef is a Chicago thing. What does a guy specializing in New York pizza know about Italian beef?
It was time to find out. It was a cool, sunny fall day in Texas, so the brief drive was a pleasant one. Entering RC's, we grabbed a table, and noticed a good lunch crowd chowing down on his excellent pizzas. It's tough to come into RC's and not order a pizza, but we did it this once. "RC is expecting us" we told the staff member, who whisked back into the kitchen.
In a few minutes the Italian Beef sandwich arrived. Whoa... this is a big sandwich, with lots of beef (probably half a pound), smothered in provolone and bell peppers (an unusual choice). The de rigueur giardinara was served in a small container on the side.

Italian Beef at RC's Pizza
Biting into the sandwich, our initial concern that RC had gone a bit crazy with the peppers was put aside; the flavors melded perfectly. The slightly sharp bite of the peppers offset the creaminess of the high quality provolone, and the thick slices of beef were perfectly tender and richly flavorful. The bread was chewy without becoming too much work, and had a toasty crunch. The chunks of veggies in the giardinara didn't want to stay put in the sandwich, so they became a tasty, tangy side; we dribbled a bit of the juice on the sandwich, adding another layer of complexity to the flavor.
All in all, the sandwich was a success. We suggested to RC that he chop the veggies, and he agreed. This is a sandwich I will be ordering again. Soon.
But RC had one more surprise up his sleeve.
"Have you tried my calamari?"
Over the years, we've had a lot of fried calamari at Italian restaurants, and it ranges from rubbery and forgettable to very good. RC won't serve food that doesn't impress him personally, so we were game to check it out. What appeared was nothing like what we were anticipating.
Fried Calamari at RC's Pizza
To say that this isn't traditional fried calamari is an understatement. Instead of the traditional breaded rings, we were served strips sliced from a calamari steak, hand-breaded and lightly fried. The batter was light and the texture of the meat was perfect - nowhere near rubbery, and evoking the flavor of the sea. 
The sauce was another surprise. RC has a very good house marinara, but he's paired his calamari with a Thai-style sweet chili sauce he makes; the combination of gentle heat and controlled sweetness contrasts beautifully with the slightly briny flavor of the fried calamari. 
While we certainly wouldn't recommend that you ignore the excellent New York-style pizza, the surprisingly good Italian beef and the very clever fried calamari cement RC's reputation as being considerably more than a place to order great pizza.
RC's NYC Pizza & Pasta | 501 Sawdust Road | The Woodlands, 77380 | 281-298-4663 | rcsnycpizza.com

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We've made no bones about being fans of Crust Pizza Co., the independent pizza empire that has announced the expansion to a third location in the Woodlands. Their focus on fresh ingredients, innovative recipes, and rock-solid consistency makes them our go-to place for a great pizza.

But we'll let you in on a secret. The outstanding pizza may not be the best thing on the Crust Pizza menu. That honor belongs to the superlative calzone, which takes the already outstanding crust to the next level.
Behold this delicious creation. The flaky, hand-tossed dough is folded around freshly cut fillings, in this case a carnivore's delight of pepperoni, bacon, Italian sausage, beef, and Canadian bacon. Melted with the meats are a mix of freshly cut mozzarella and cheddar cheese. The crust is baked to a perfect golden brown, then brushed with butter and fresh garlic. 
The result is, hands down, the best calzone we've ever tasted. Try it.

Crust Pizza Co. on Urbanspoon

Even if you love to try new things, it's easy to fall into a rut.  For years I was in a pizza rut - every time I'd order a pizza, pepperoni would be the key topping.  Sure, I'd occasionally augment things with some Italian sausage, onion, or bacon, but it wasn't a pizza for me without pepperoni.

Crust Pizza changed all that for me.  Just before the grand opening I stopped by to see how construction was coming, and Clint Price, one of the partners, offered me a peculiar looking slice to sample.  There was no pepperoni to be found... heck, there wasn't even any red sauce.  But it was delicious.  The pizza was later named The Jerk, and it's become one of my favorites.  Jamaican jerk-seasoned chicken, caramelized onions, a variety of peppers and chunks of bacon are scattered over cheddar and mozzarella cheese stretched over their delicious crust.  A tangy Jamaican jerk dressing replaces the red sauce.  It works.
Later Clint devised the Old Smokey, another unique pizza that isn't based on the traditional red sauce.  It's become another favorite of mine.  Spicy link sausage and jalapenos, a tangy ranch dressing and smoked mozzarella cheese are the dominant flavors.  Again, unusual for a pizza, but the result works.
Yesterday I noticed a new monthly special pizza, and it's perhaps the most creatively bizarre option yet.  Called the Mr. Potato Head, it features an ingredient I've never seen on pizza - Idaho potatoes.  I've learned to trust Clint, so promptly ordered one to test out.
What arrived again changed my perception of pizza.  Bits of bacon are the only meat topping.  Prominent atop the alfredo sauce, mozzarella and cheddar cheeses are thin slices of Idaho potato, accented with said bacon bits and fresh chives.  It's a slightly Italian spin on baked potato skins, but much lighter and with the richness of the alfredo sauce making this an indulgent choice.

The Woodlands quickly becoming a full-fledged city, its residents not needing to leave the area when they want to shop or dine. But the savvy diner will notice one distressing fact: Most of the restaurants in The Woodlands are part of a chain that's based elsewhere.

Fortunately, that's starting to change. Now there's a new kid on the independent pizzeria block: Crust Pizza Co.

Crust Pizza Co. is an upscale, family-oriented pizza parlor located in the Panther Creek Village Center, on The Woodlands Parkway at West Panther Creek. It's a true independent — the owners, Mark Rasberry and Clint Price, are on-site and deeply involved. Price is a resident of The Woodlands, and Rasberry is currently making a weekly commute from Dallas — he'll be relocating after the school year ends.

They decided to open their pizza concept in The Woodlands, citing the family-friendly environment as a key reason for Crust Pizza debuting outside both the Loop and the Beltway.

Jamaican Jerk Chicken Pizza at Crust Pizza Co.

The strip-center location has been converted into a warm, inviting spot for lunch or dinner. Custom is the operative word here — custom banquettes, custom countertops, and beautiful custom lighting with exposed copper supports.

The warmth extends to the new staff — a bunch of fresh faces, many of whom have never worked in the restaurant business before. Price and Rasberry are training them to be professional as well as friendly, and from our first impression, we received a tremendous amount of enthusiasm and a growing degree of polish.

The warm, inviting dining room at Crust Pizza Co.

The experience, however, is behind the counter. Crust's pizzas are hand-built by a pizza chef who was brought in from New York, and his East Coast sensibilities are baked right into his work.

Each pizza features a handmade thin, crispy crust with house-made sauce. The fresh toppings range from the traditional pepperoni and sausage to the exotic, like cashews and muffaletta-style olive relish.

Preparing a pizza at Crust Pizza Co.

"So how's the pizza?" you ask.

I'm typically a pizza traditionalist, so I started by sampling a margherita pizza. The crust was light and crisp but not hard, and its faintly sweet flavor was a solid base for the savory roma tomatoes, mozzarella, and fresh chopped basil.

The crushed garlic added a bit of swagger, and the result was both fresh and bold. (Bold is a recurring theme at Crust Pizza Co., and one that is a welcome change from the often bland offerings at chain restaurants.)

Margherita Pizza at Crust Pizza Co.

Next was a walk on the wild side. We tried The Jerk, featuring Jamaican jerk chicken, caramelized onions, red, green, and yellow bell peppers, thick-cut bacon and a mixture of cheeses.

This was, again, a bold pizza, the jerk chicken's spicy bite offset by the sourness of the bell peppers and the smoky undertones of the nice quality bacon. I didn't expect to like this pizza (I'm not a big bell pepper fan) but it turned out to be my favorite.

We also sampled their sandwiches, including a memorable Spicy Link sub, with hot Italian link sausage, a variety of peppers, caramelized onions, and a blend of cheeses over the housemade pizza sauce.

Spicy Link Sausage Sandwich at Crust Pizza Co.

Not to be trite, but this, too, was a bold piece of food art. The Italian links were nicely spicy, and the peppers' gentle sourness made for a very savory combination.

We were impressed by the food coming out of this new kitchen, and feel that it's only fair to overlook any pre-opening jitters, which were few and far between. Rasberry and Price are pros, and they've brought their distinct style of upscale, high-quality pizzas to the central Woodlands. And they're doing so at very reasonable prices.

The verdict? We'll be back.

Crust Pizza Co. - 4775 West Panther Creek Dr. - The Woodlands 77381 - 281-298-8844

(This entry first appeared on CultureMap.)

Crust Pizza Co. on Urbanspoon

Update: Crust Pizza is now open.  We tried 'em out, and here's our take on the food and the experience.

The Woodlands has many places to dine out.  Most are units of large chains, but we've noticed an uptick in independent, mom-and-pop restaurants with owners who are active, involved, and on the premises.

The latest privately-owned restaurant to appear on the scene is Crust Pizza Co., located at Woodlands Parkway and Panther Creek in the Panther Creek Village Center.

Crust Pizza Co. - Under Construction

(Crust Pizza is so new that they're not yet open - their contractors were busy finishing out the restaurant when we stopped in for a visit.  The brand-new pizza oven was still in its wrapper, and the phones were in their boxes, awaiting connection.)

Crust Pizza Company is the brainchild of Clint Price and Mark Rasberry.  Clint lives in the Woodlands, and Mark and his family are relocating from Dallas after the school year ends.

Mark and Clint describe the restaurant as a family-focused spot, with handmade food, good prices, and a slightly upscale family atmosphere.  A variety of pizzas will be front and center, with Chicago-style thin crust and a wide variety of fresh toppings.  Pasta, sandwiches, and salads will also be on the menu, and daily specials will be offered.  Beer and wine will be available as well.

The cozy location will seat about 50 people indoors, and another 25 or so on the wraparound patio amidst the pine trees.

We're looking forward to the grand opening of Crust Pizza Co., and will have a full review once they're up and running.

Crust Pizza Co. - 4775 West Panther Creek Drive - The Woodlands, Texas 77381 - 281-298-8844

We've lived in the Woodlands for about five years now, and have watched the restaurant here scene steadily grow and improve.  No longer just a sleepy little suburb, the 80,000+ residents of the Woodlands can enjoy dining out at some of the best restaurants in the Houston area.  From high-end establishments like Tesars and Jasper's, to small mom-and-pop restaurants like Eden Cafe, Capri, and Mel's, the Woodlands area has something for everyone.

One particular area of interest is pizza.  Houston isn't a great pizza town (Sorry, Star Pizza) and many folks believe the best pizza can be found in the suburbs, particularly Sugar Land and the Woodlands.  You'll find great local spots like Brother's Pizza and Pizza Tonight, and bigger chains like Russo's and the stellar Grimaldi's (from Brooklyn.)

We'd been hearing good things about a small pizza place that had quietly opened two locations in the Woodlands.  When one of our trusted sources said that the pizza was worth trying, we headed out to investigate.


We drove west from our central Woodlands headquarters to the Sterling Ridge location of Gozzetti's.  Located in the well-hidden Marcel Crossing Shopping Center, Gozzetti's is a small, tidy spot with both indoor and outdoor seating.  We were immediately greeted by the gregarious staff, and we learned a little about their story.

Gozzetti's is owned by two families who moved to the Woodlands from New Jersey.  Unable to find the kind of pizza they were accustomed to in their home state, they decided to make their own, using ingredients imported from the East Coast.

Gozzetti's formula begins with a thin, hand-tossed crust that's made in-house.  And these crusts are big - a large at Gozzetti's is 24".  (That's not a typo).  Next is the specially blended sauce, spread sparingly, as they do on the east coast.  Above that are a mixture of imported (from NJ) cheeses, and the meat and veggie toppings.

The result goes into a conventional conveyor oven.  And what comes out is the reason we're here.  From this unremarkable oven emerges a pizza that's among the best in the Houston area - thin, crunchy/chewy, and loaded with flavor.  Gozzetti's gets the foundation right - the thin, tasty crust, the right amount of tangy sauce, and a rich, gooey cheese layer supports the top quality toppings.  We sampled the traditional pepperoni (large diameter, similar to what they use at Ciao Bello) and the untraditional bacon and pineapple.  All were delicious.

We've often bemoaned the lack of great pizza in Houston.  Thanks to places like Gozzetti's and Grimaldi's, you don't have to go far to find great pizza in the Woodlands.  And for you inside-the-loop folks, it's a nice drive out on a sunny day.

Gozzetti's Pizza
8000 McBeth Way, #170
The Woodlands, Texas 77381
832-585-0303

Gozetti's Pizza
25919 I45 North, Suite A
The Woodlands, Texas 77380
832-585-0600

Gozetti's.com

Gozzetti's Pizzeria on Urbanspoon

We love a great pizza.  We've been known to discuss great pizzas at length with friends.  But compared to Jeff Varasano, we are complete and total dilettantes... because Jeff is serious about pizza, and is willing to share his opinions.

We don't know if his recipe tastes as amazing as he says, but we are in awe of the amount of detail that he puts into it.

If anyone in Houston successfully duplicates his work, we'd love to try it.

Pizza by Marco, based out of Dallas, will open its first Houston location at Market Street this July. Market Street is the outdoor shopping and entertainment district in the Woodlands.

Pizza by Marco is one of the oldest pizzerias in Dallas, and was honored by D Magazine as the best pizzaria in Dallas.

Founded by the Nuccio family of Dallas in 1955, Pizza by Marco is known for to its secret family sauce and flatbread crust. The new restaurant will serve lunch and dinner with delivery available. The menu will feature pizza, pasta and a wide selection of vegan toppings and preservative-free cheese.

Pizza by Marco at Market Street will be led by owner Frank Barnard, a longtime resident of the Dallas area and successful restaurateur.

We've noticed an increased number of Google Mashups, and here's one dedicated to pizza lovers: PizzaShare. It's not perfect, and there's not much for Houston, but it's an interesting idea that's worth a peek.

PizzaShare

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