Update: Qomfort has closed.

Ray Aker is a man on a mission. He is a consummate restaurateur, a professional who enjoys pleasing guests and creating restaurants that serve the community and fill a need.

We were skeptical when we heard about Ray's first concept, Q-Shi, but one visit won us over, and made us fans. Rumblings about a new concept in the original (but remodeled) Q-Shi location had us intrigued; a phone call from Ray asking us to come check it out resulted in a quick trip down I-45 for a first look.

Welcome to Qomfort

We'd made the drive to the original Q-Shi location many times, including once for the filming of Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives with Guy Fieri. Upon pulling into the suburban strip center, we parked right beside the building. You can't miss it.

The outside of the building proudly wears the new Qomfort branding, proclaiming the availability of breakfast and lunch for the community. As always, parking is easy and ample. Walking inside the building, we were impressed by the changes. The look of the space has been freshened and brightened, and an inviting hostess station greets guests as the walk into the space.

Qomfort opens at 6:30am, providing a quality alternative to fast food for morning commuters, and closes at 2:30pm, after the lunch crowd.

The menu is a tightly edited list of breakfast classics and speciality dishes. The specialities are interesting and outside of the box, as you'd expect from one of Aker's restaurants. They've tapped Chef Jonathan Branch to head the kitchen; Chef Jon has a broad culinary background, most recently as chef at 55 Degrees Wine Bar in Houston.

The Food

We sampled a few different items. First up is the grab-and-go option, a breakfast wrap. This substantial handful was a large flour tortilla, wrapped around chorizo, potato, and scrambled eggs. The wrap was very good; the house chorizo brings a lot of flavor and a gentle, slow heat.

Wraps are build-your-own, and you have all of the traditional breakfast meat options, along with several veggies.

Next up was a Southern classic: Shrimp 'n' Grits. Stone ground grits are slow cooked with smoked gouda, poblanos and roasted garlic, then finished with a housemade creole sauce with crumbled andoullie sausage, bacon, and nicely sized shrimp.

The flavors of the bayou come through loud and clear: Smoky, rising heat, creamy, smooth, and delicious. Perfectly cooked shrimp and beautifully textured grits complete this dish, and the result is a Southern classic we'll be ordering again.

The final dish came highly recommended. The Qomfort Signature Waffle, made with Chef Jon's Bread Pudding batter. Deceptively simple, it came topped with butter, and served with housemade Butter Maple Bourbon syrup.

The light, fluffy waffle was outstanding; the complex sweetness of the bread pudding was an outstanding variation on this breakfast classic. But the magic happened when the Butter Maple Bourbon syrup was added; the result was lush, rich, and utterly decadent. It's the least expensive trip to the Big Easy you can take on a typical Houston morning.

We had high hopes for a new restaurant with Ray Aker's name attached to it; fortunately he and Chef Jon adroitly exceeded our expectations. We're delighted to have a new, great option in the Woodlands area for breakfast, and look forward to returning soon and exploring some of the lunch options as well.

Chef Austin Simmons is a man on a mission. I first met Chef Austin in 2010 when he was John Tesar's sous chef at Tesar's Modern in the Woodlands, Texas. John had just departed the restaurant, and Austin impressed me with how he took the helm and skillfully guided Tesar's after the master left, proving his years of working with Chef Tesar had paid off handsomely. Clearly, this was a young chef with talent, ambition, and the ability to take the reins.

Fast foward a few years, and Chef Austin had moved to Hubbell & Hudson Bistro, rocketing through the ranks to become executive chef. He elevated the cuisine, picking up accolades along the way. His restaurant was named one of the best in Houston, the best in the Woodlands, and most recently won the prestigious 2018 Truffle Masters competition, beating a slew of talented chefs including James Beard award winners.

Hubbell & Hudson Bistro had spawned a restaurant within a restaurant called Cureight, which specializes in eight-course tasting menus. This smaller venue allows Chef Austin and his talented team to explore some outside-the-box dishes, delighting foodies and becoming the destination restaurant in the Woodlands.

One thing you quickly learn about Austin Simmons: He's never satisfied with what he has accomplished. Realizing that a great restaurant needs outstanding service as well as great food, he hired guest whisperer Chris Perry (who opened Robard's Steak House, and as General Manager built it into the Woodlands best steakhouse) to polish the service and run the front of the house.

We'd heard rumblings that some big changes were in the works, and after months of speculation, they rolled out their new concept: TRIS, which takes its name from Chef Austin's lovely daughter.

Amazingly, the restaurant was transformed in less than two weeks. Contractors were working around the clock to rip out the old banquettes and booths, and convert the dining room into an open airy space. Perry trained the service staff on the elevated expectations he has for his team. Chef Austin (along with Chef de Cuisine Cortney Taraboi and Executive Sous Chef Brian Stanek) finalized and polished the all-new menu, which by design has something of a split personality.

One Restaurant. Two Concepts

Realizing the varied needs of the Woodland community, Austin and Chris gave TRIS two distinct personalities.

By day, TRIS is a casual spot, serving a menu of classic crowd pleasers and some unexpected options. Chef Austin is not one to put boring recipes on the plate, so his versions of these dishes feature distinctive touches that aren't typically found.

By night, TRIS gets dressed up. White tablecloths come out, and the staff has a bit more starch in their collars. The kitchen ups its game even further, with a mix of reimagined classics and some of Chef Austin's more exotic creations.

Lunch - Casual, with Elevated Cuisine

We arrived for lunch, and were seated in a sunny spot where we could survey the room. Perusing the tightly edited menu, we zeroed in on what we'd try first.

We started with the Philly Cheese Steak. Mystery meat is replaced with razor-sliced prime ribeye, phenomenally tender and piled atop a fresh hoagie roll. House cheese sauce, grilled onions, shallots, and red peppers complete the creation.

This is not your Uncle Larry's cheesesteak. The rich flavor of the tender, marinated beef is enhanced by the silky smooth cheese sauce and the tangy vegetables. You're never going to be satisfied by Cheez Whiz again after devouring this sandwich.

Next up was the Texas classic: Chicken Fried Steak. High-quality beef is pounded thin, then hand-breaded with a gently seasoned breading. Béchamel gravy, Yukon mashed potatoes with caramelized cheese, and huge asparagus complete the dish.

The result is an elevated version of this Texas favorite. The sassy béchamel is an upscale version of the de riguer cream gravy, and it pairs masterfully with the moist, tender beef and the snappy crust. The mash has a sweet, soulful undertone from the caramelized cheese, and the perfectly cooked asparagus demonstrates a deft touch.

Our dining companion was in the mood for something light, so we selected the Avocado Tart. What appeared was stunning.

An etherial puff pastry was paved with thin slices of an entire avocado. vegan cashew cheese, chopped piquillo peppers, pistachios, and pickled mustard seed (almost a mustard caviar) completed this jewel-like creation. The result was delicious, and perfect for vegetarians... or anyone else who wants something light and delicious.

A lunch menu isn't complete without soup. Eschewing something simple, Chef Austin presented his Tonkatsu Miso Ramen. We were a little skeptical; we've not found great ramen outside of a dedicated ramen shop, or at the hands of a experienced master like Chef Manabu Horiuchi of Kata Robata. Will this difficult dish prove to be the undoing of the talented chef?

Never attack Russia in the winter. And never bet against Austin Simmons. Chef Austin's ramen hits all the classic notes, but was gently lightened for the lunch crowd. Artisan noodles (imported from Sun Noodle, the benchmark) are topped with planed mushrooms, green onion, smoky grilled pork belly, and sous vide eggs, then bathed in the 48-hour tonkotsu-miso broth. The result is soulful (without being cloyingly heavy,) flavorful, and memorable. This is real ramen, with Chef Austin's distinct signature clearly evident. He apparently picked up a thing or two on his recent food tour of Japan.

Dinner - TRIS Dresses to Impress

Returning a few hours later for dinner (oh, the sacrifices we make for you), we were welcomed into a totally different restaurant. The lights were dimmed, the white tablecloths were out, and the place settings were noticeably more formal. The menu had been replaced as well, and the staff's demeanor was a bit more polished. The menu had expanded, and taken a noticeable turn toward France... but with Chef Austin's signature Asian touches well represented.

Our eyes were immediate drawn to the foie gras, a popular luxury ingredient that is easy to mishandle. But we had faith in the kitchen at Tris.

What appeared was an artful example of attention to detail. House made brioche was crowned with a slab of decadently rich foie, accented with blood orange, honey, and hints of truffle. The result was indulgent and delicious... the sweetness of the brioche and honey, and the tang of the blood orange offset the richness of the foie were in a beautiful balance. Easily one of the best renditions of this dish we've sampled.

As a contrast to a rich dish like foie gras, we chose the intriguing Hamachi Tostada as another appetizer. The blue corn tostada was layered with a generous portion of thickly sliced hamachi, shreds of cabbage, shaved onions, and slices of serrano peppers, glazed with a tangy Thai vinaigrette. This dish was bright, fresh, and delicious, a tribute to Chef Austin's mastery of Asian flavors.

Now it was time for the entrees. We decided to sample from the land and the sea. We started with the 1855 Ribeye, a sliced, bone-in presentation of wet aged super prime beef.

Barely mid-rare (as requested,) it was deftly prepared, served with parsnip puree and a mound of flaky sea salt. The spectacularly charred beef had the subtle flavor of charcoal, and had a bold, beefy swagger. Easily one of the most memorable steaks I've eaten; I now have a favorite steakhouse very close to home.

On a more aquatic note, we jumped on the chance to order a classic we'd not seen on a restaurant menu in years: Lobster Thermador. This classic French creation (Escoffier first served it) is often considered the true test of a classic French kitchen.

This is precisely the kind of challenging dish that Chef Austin executes so well. Huge chunks of lobster were removed from the shell, cooked, and glazed with a sublime cognac lobster creme, then combined with razored shiitake mushrooms and topped with a light crown of  freshly grated parmesan-reggiano. The result is a superlative, utterly decadent creation that every foodie has to order at least once. The tender, moist flavorful lobster meat is glazed with the cognac lobster cream, creating a bite that is perhaps the ultimate indulgence.

After this remarkable degustation, we wanted to wrap things up on a sweet note. The dessert menu was full of intriguing options, but one classic choice stood out: The signature TRIS chocolate cake.

The generous wedge of deliciousness was a revelation. The thick, glossy chocolate enrobing locked in moisture and flavor of the riotous chocolate cake, its layers divided by a schmear of caramel buttercream and salt. This simple but masterfully executed cake is destined to become famous; it embodies everything we love about cake but rarely end up tasting. An outstanding finish to an extraordinary meal.

Throughout the adventure the TRIS staff provided excellent advice and service; Chris Perry as been teaching them well. We look forward to returning again to sample more of Chef Austin's creations. It is exciting to have watched the enthusiastic young sous chef land in his own restaurant, expand his already formidable skills, rise to the top, and execute his vision on such an extraordinarily high level.

I can't wait to see what he comes up with next.

One of the more interesting and unique restaurants in Houston is Peli Peli. Specializing in South African cuisine, the upscale restaurant brings new ingredients and dishes to the diverse Houston restaurant palette.

Peli Peli Kitchen is the fast casual concept that brings the flavors of South Africa to Houston in a more relaxed, affordable setting. It has opened on the west bound I-10 feeder at Campbell, easily accessible from downtown or the west side.

(Disclaimer: The team at PPK was so anxious for us to try their new restaurant they invited us to a special tasting, sent their corporate jet to whisk us from the Woodlands to Houston’s near west side, and plied us with their well selected house wines and craft beers before sending out course after course for our degustation. OK, they didn’t send the jet.)

The team behind Peli Peli is an experienced one. Partners Thomas Nguyen, Aiki Kong “Michael” Tran, and Executive Chef Paul Friedman, bring their expertise in operations, marketing, finance, and of course cuisine and menu development.

Stepping inside the bright, airy space, your eye is immediately drawn to the beautiful original artwork that covers different surfaces throughout the restaurant. The seemingly abstract art represents different aspects of the business, from the partners, to South African references, to interesting details that reflect the concept and sensibilities of the Peli Peli operation.

But how’s the food? We previewed several of the dishes on the well curated menu. Here are our first impressions.

Smoked Salmon Rosti

First up was one of PPK’s breakfast dishes, the smoke salmon rosti. This South African take on a large breakfast taco includes smoked salmon, chopped hash browns, sautéed spinach, goat cheese, capers, a poached egg, hollandaise, and PPK’s signature peppadew peppers, wrapped in fresh naan.

It’s one of the most exciting takes on a breakfast taco we can remember tasting. Chef Paul skillfully combines the smokey salmon, creamy hollandaise, warm, comforting hash browns, and the zesty zing of the peppers. It’s an entirely new flavor profile, but one we’re already craving again.

Huguenot Porkbelly on Brioche

Next, we sampled one of PPK’s cleverly conceived sandwiches. Warm, slightly sweet brioche was combined with hearty slices of pork belly, rubbed with hickory mesquite and slow roasted. Combined with fried onions, cilantro, and peppadew peppers, the balance of this dish was delightful. It’s the perfect grab and go lunch for those in a hurry but not willing to compromise on flavor.

Braised Oxtail

This classic from the American South was slow-cooked until the incredibly tender meat falls off the bone. The subtle, layered flavors are sure to delight any aficionado of southern cooking

We’ve always enjoyed Chef Paul Friedman’s South African fusion cuisine at Peli Peli, and are impressed by how the team has edited and distilled the essence of what makes that restaurant wonderful into this new elevated fast casual concept. If you’ve been to Peli Peli you’ll love this place; if you haven’t, it’s an accessible, affordable introduction into the bold flavors and wonderful experience of South African cooking.

UPDATE Spring 2017: Howie's has changed their food program. And not for the better. The cocktails remain phenomenal, but the food is merely average for a bar.

One of our biggest complaints about living in the Woodlands is the lack of great nightlife. Sure, there are a handful of good choices, but the area isn't exactly overflowing with interesting places to go at night.

Our curiosity was piqued by rumors of a new spot on 2920, just south of the Woodlands. Not just a new bar. A new Tiki Bar. Called Howie's Tiki, it is the brainchild of Mark Voros, a hospitality industry veteran and a big fan of Tiki culture.

Tiki bars are a part of the American bar landscape that seem to keep being reborn every generation, and we find them to be interesting, entertaining, and a break from the typical.

We stopped in one night, sampled a couple of the tropical drinks, and had to pick up food from a local fast food joint because they were still working on the menu. (Pro Tip: Jack in the Box egg rolls go well with rum drinks.) As much as we enjoyed this eclectic combination, we were looking forward to the rollout of the menu at Howie's Tiki, because the bar has a full kitchen, and Voros is a guy who is as passionate about his food as he is about his rum.

We were excited to get a message from him a week later. "We're ready to roll out lunch. Come try it."

These are some of my favorite words, especially from the proprietor of a place as unique as Howie's Tiki. So we hopped into the car, and made a quick trip down Gosling from the Woodlands. Within 10 minutes we were rolling into Howie's Tiki.

We exchanged greetings with Mark, and he made some suggestions for items to try. He zipped back into the kitchen, and a few minutes later the chef emerged.

He presented their signature salad, a tropical mix of citrus fruits, pineapple, and onion accented with feta cheese and served over cold kale. Nicely dressed with a light citrus glaze (we detected a hint of agave) it was one of the better kale salads we'd sampled. The brightness of the fruit and the glaze offset the slight bitterness of the kale, and the result was a clean plate in a matter of minutes. This is a salad I would gladly order again.

Next up was something I'd been eagerly anticipating, the Banzai Burger. It turns out that Mark and I share a passion for burgers, and he joked that he opened a bar so he could serve his own bar burger.

Mark specs 44 Farms natural angus beef, in a 1/2 pound patty. It's topped with a slice of melty cheddar cheese, onion, a slice of roast pineapple, and finished with their housemade teriyaki glaze. Oh joy. Another teriyaki burger, I grumped.

After my first bite, my grumpiness turned to something different. This was a great teriyaki burger... and a superb burger of any kind. The sweetness of the teriyaki glaze was mild, controlled, and well balanced with the tang of the pineapple, the sharp bite of onion, the richness of the cheddar, and the juicy, beefy swagger of the 44 Farms patty, cooked perfectly medium rare. The result was an expertly balanced, interesting burger that highlighted each of its ingredients and melded them into a delicious combination. If you love burgers, you need to try this one.

After the glorious burger, we tried the beef tenderloin kabob. Nicely thick chunks of beef tenderloin are broiled to medium rare, glazed, and skewered with pineapple, red peppers, and onion. The result is a better-than-average kabob that satisfies a craving for meat.

As we were packing up, Voros brought out one final dish - his house fried rice. Fried to order and dressed with Canadian bacon, this subtle creation is a good counterpart to some of the bolder dishes on the menu.

We were excited to learn of the opening of Howie's Tiki, bringing an authentic dose of Tiki life to the Tiki-less wasteland north of Houston. Now we're doubly excited by the promising food coming out of the kitchen, especially the superb burger that represents Mark Voros's take on what a burger should be.

The man knows his burgers. You should get to know them, too.

Howie's Tiki | 4334 Farm to Market Rd 2920, Spring, TX 77388 | (832) 299-6991

Sawdust Road just south of the Woodlands is home to dozens of small restaurants. Most are forgettable, but there are a few gems, like Hello Taco, Kobe Japanese Steakhouse, and The Olive Oil.

New on the strip is The Omega Grill, an upscale casual American concept from the people behind The Olive Oil. Taking over the physical space that was a succession of two-letter grills (JP's, PJ's, etc.) the former faux 50’s diner space has been transformed.

The new space is comfortable, contemporary, and inviting.

In the kitchen, Hubbell & Hudson Bistro alum Jason Bielefeldt is creating his take on American comfort food favorites, including pork chops, chicken-fried steaks, hot dogs, and a burger made with 44 Farms beef

Our quick lunch at The Omega Grill was fresh and tasty. The new kitchen is finding its groove, and new menu items are being rolled out on a regular basis

We're excited to return and sample more of Chef Jason's menu.

Omega Grill | 399 Sawdust Road | The Woodlands 77380 | 832-299-6665

Houston BBQ fans have been anxiously awaiting the reopening of Corkscrew BBQ, the award-winning BBQ spot on the north side. Before today, Corkscrew was located in a trailer on Budde road, just South of the Woodlands.

We arrived at Corkscrew BBQ just before the opening. This has become a tradition for us - we visited the original location on opening day, and were immediately impressed by the BBQ turned out by this family business.

The new Corkscrew is on the northern edge of Old Town Spring, having taken over the old Hyde's Cafe building. Will and Nichole Buckman, owners of Corkscrew, completely renovated the historic building. The setting is rustic and comfortable, with the two Corkscrew pavilions repurposed to create an outdoor seating area.

As expected, lines at the new Corkscrew were out the door to the curb. Waits to order ran about an hour, which isn't bad for top quality craft BBQ.

The assembled crowds had their waits rewarded. Corkscrew delivered its Texas Monthly Top 50 meats and delicious sides.

We're excited to see the reopening of Corkscrew BBQ. The Spring area once again has two top quality destinations for barbecue fans. We'll be back. Often.

   

Cary Attar is a man you should know if you enjoy great food in the Woodlands. He created Hubbell & Hudson Bistro, considered by many to be the finest restaurant in the Woodlands area, and one of the best in Houston. His Hubbell & Hudson Kitchen concept elevated fast casual dining,  bringing an attention to detail that is often sorely lacking in the genre.

More recently, Cary created Fielding's Wood Grille, which quickly earned a reputation as one of the Woodland's premiere dining destinations. The focus on locally sourced ingredients and classic French technique applied to elevated comfort food won over the Woodlands locals. Fielding's burger's are among the best in the Woodlands, and their cocktail program is the benchmark by which others are measure.

His latest creation, Fielding's Local, is set to open soon in the Creekside Park village center. We stopped in to get a sneak preview of Cary's latest creation.

Stepping into the restaurant, we were taken by the bright, airy interior. The dining room and bar areas are surrounded by glass, looking over the lovely Creekside Park village center grounds. 

  

Thoughtful, modern touches abound - each table has power and USB, allowing digital savants to recharge their devices while they refuel their bodies.

  

The bar area is airy and open, and the signature Fielding's cocktail program is in full effect, along with, 18 beers on tap. The well edited 100 bottle wine list is supplemented by 20 choices by the glass.

 

Scotch is a focus at the bar at Fielding's Local, with an impressive lineup of bottles.  If you're a scotch fan, you're going to enjoy working your way through the collection.

And  as  always, the craft cocktail program is second to none in the area. We sampled the Dragon's Breath, featuring Herman Marshall whiskey, St.  Germaine, crushed lime juice, and smoke, poured over a single cube from Fielding's Ice Program. Yes, Fielding's has an ice program, and we expect this unique idea to spread throughout the area.  

 

The kitchen at Fielding's Local is open, spacious, and stocked with state-of-the-art equipment. No expense has been spared.

  

All of this leads up to the centerpiece of this new restaurant: The food. We sampled several items at this sneak preview; Fielding's was generous enough to invite us over as their guest. Since this was a pre-opening runthrough, we won't be critically evaulating the dishes, but we will point out highlghts.

 

Hammond Farms goat cheese, with charred avocado, Colinas De Garzon EVOO, house made fennel crisps. Smooth, creamy, with a hint of sweetness. One of the mildest goat cheeses we've tasted; we see it having broad appeal, even to those who don't typically like goat cheese.

   

Fingerling potatoes, served in a tiny iron rammekin. Perfectly cooked. A simple side executed very well; it speaks to the attention to detail that is a halmark of all of Cary Attar's restaurants.
 

44 Farms filet mignon. Nicely seared, rare center (as ordered), supremely tender. Fielding's knows how to handle high quality meat, and it shows here.

  

Dessert: Coconut rice tamale. Jasmine rice, pina colada sauce, mango habanero salsa. Superb dessert; sweet, light, tropical, with a subtle kick from the habanero. Perhaps the perfect Texas summer dessert. Do not miss this.

We've been fans of Cary Attar's restaurants for years, and with Fielding's Local, he has created another exciting concept. From the beautiful setting to the interesting, creative cuisine, we look forward to returning and sampling more from this exciting new restaurant.

Fielding's Local | Creekside Park Village Center | 26400 Kuykendahl Road 77375 | 281-352-2225

Bernie's Backyard opened today to a throng of hungry guests ready to check out North Houston's first food truck park. Located on the Northbound I-45 feeder between FM 2920 and the Grand Parkway, Bernie's hosts several popular food trucks in a modern, comfortable facility. Covered outdoor dining in a large pavilion, and an indoor, air conditioned bar area (beer and wine only) complete the complex.

Bernie's opened with a good range of popular food trucks, offering a variety of foods:

BBQ Godfather - South Texas BBQ from the award-winning pitmaster.

Black Garlic - Gourmet burgers and fries.

Rustica - Italian offerings from the team behind the Lasagna House.

Gogi Paradise - Unique Korean-influenced comfort food. Tacos, burgers, and more.

Love Me Tenders - Specializing in chicken tenders.

The Naked Fry - Serving a variety of fries, both naked and not.

Buzzles - Purveyors of shaved ice, including New Orleans-style with creamy toppings.

Bernie's opens at 11am daily, and closes at 9pm.

- - -

We're live on opening day at Bernie's Backyard, the new food truck park on I-45 in Spring.

BBQ Godfather, Black Garlic, Rustica, Gogi Paradise, Love Me Tenders, Buzzles, and The Naked Fry are lined up for the opening.

Members of the Woodlands Area Foodies group are in attendance for the event.

  

We're anxiously awaiting the grand opening of Del Frisco's Grille, the newest addition to the Woodlands Hughes Landing Restaurant Row. And sometimes we're not very good at waiting.

During a recent walk-through preview of this beautiful new restaurant, Executive Chef Brian McNamara asked me if I'd eaten lunch. If there's one think I've learned over the years, when a talented chef asks you if you're hungry, the answer is always "yes".

Chef McNamara's team is training hard every day, and I was glad to be a guinea pig. Behold their cheeseburger - two well-seasoned patties of aged prime beef, ground with brisket and topped with high quality cheese and fresh veggies.

The burger was outstanding. Del Frisco's is known for it's prime steaks, but it's also going to be a great spot for a more casual meal. I'll be back very soon.

 

The Woodlands has become a popular location for successful Houston establishments looking to branch out into a new market. The combination of an attractive demographic and plentiful (if pricey) retail space brings many successful Houston restaurateurs to this bustling suburb to the north.

The latest group to make the drive up I-45 are the team behind several successful bar and restaurant locations in Houston, including Pub Fiction, Celtic Gardens, Third Floor, Shot Bar, Bear Market, and Cook and Collins. They've brought their successful Heights restaurant concept, called Crisp, to the Woodlands.

Crisp is an upscale, casual restaurant concept that is built around craft beer, a curated wine list, and chef-driven, but not stuffy, cuisine.

Crisp is located in the original Black Walnut space on Research Forest. The cozy but dated Black Walnut interior was gutted, and a new, sleek, inviting interior was constructed. Several distinct spaces were created; an energetic bar area, a quieter, cozy dining room (divided from the bar by a wall of wine that is a beautiful focal point) and a comfortable covered patio.

Lighting is subdued and cozy; it's a comfortable setting for dinner with family and friends. We predict it will also be a popular location for date night. To this end, Crisp has eschewed the current trend of upscale counter service for traditional, full-service dining. We shudder at the concept of asking a date to wait in line to order, and applaud Crisp's decision.

The wine list is broad without being encyclopediac, and the staff is poised to make helpful pairings. A dozen craft beers are on tap, more are in bottles, and unlike the Heights location, Crisp offers a full bar in the Woodlands.

There are some interesting details, including one of the amazing Enomatic wine delivery systems, allowing guests to pour glasses of specialty wines typically not available by the glass, and in three serving sizes, including one-ounce tastings.

An inviting setting with all the latest technology is great, but success in the restaurant business hinges on the food and the service. How does Crisp's measure up?

We started by ordering both sides of a traditional charcuterie tray - the Dairymaid's Cheese Board and the Shady Acres Picnic Platter. The cheese board features a small loaf of crusty bread drizzled with honey, a selection of four cheeses (presumably from Houston's Dairymaid cheesemakers), apple slices, and honey.

While we admire the choice of a local source for cheese, we were a bit underwhelmed with the choices here. None of the cheeses were bad, but flavors are muted and mild, and there wasn't a "wow" cheese on board.

As mild as the flavors were on the cheese board, we were pleasantly surprised by the bold flavors on the picnic platter. Very good proscuitto and salumi are presented with a selection of delicious pickled vegetables. The pickling brine is far more interesting than a traditional vinegar solution; sweet, spicy and complex, these vegetables outshine the very good meats and make this a craveable platter.

Pizza is a big deal at Crisp, and we sacrificed for our readers and sampled several of them. Crisp cooks its pizza in a very clever hybrid oven - it's a stone-sided conveyor oven, offering the benefits of the intense heat of a stone oven alongside the consistency of a conveyor. We think it's a great solution to problem of improperly cooked pizzas coming out of fancy ovens (hello, Grimaldi's, we're looking at you). But to us, it's all about the results, so we started tasting some pizza.

First up was The Dragon's Pizza Pie, an outside-the-box creation topped with Gulden Draak poached apples, gorgonzola, prosciutto, arugula and balsamic syrup. We're fans of this style of sweet/salty/smoky creation, as long as the ingredients are balanced and the kitchen executes a properly cooked pizza.

The kitchen didn't let us down. The result was successful; light, tangy, with the zing of the poached apples balancing the slightly sour gorgonzola and the smoky prosciutto. The bitter arugula and sweet balsamic completed the flavor profile. The crust was light, crisp (pun intended) and very tasty. We approve.

Next up was another signature pizza, San Fran's North Beach. Setting the stage are high quality pepperoni, rosemary ham, fennel sausage, olive, a hint of chili flake, small tomatoes and their housemade red pizza sauce.

The seasoned meats are the centerpiece here; they elevate Crisp's take on a meat lover's pizza to the next level, with complex flavors that meld together masterfully.

All in all, we're big fans of Crisp's pizzas. Clever combinations of unique ingredients, a flavorful crust, and careful execution are a winning formula.

Even though we were nearing a food coma, we wanted to sample a few more options on Crisp's menu. Next up was a southern specialty with a Crisp twist - Shrimp and Polenta. The formula: Nicely sized grilled shrimp, crispy polenta with smoked bacon, fresh basil, and roasted garlic tomato sauce.

This dish highlighted the kitchen's deft touch - the perfectly grilled shrimp and the savory, smoky, bacon polenta were balanced by the zing of the garlic tomato sauce. As much as we enjoy traditional shrimp and grits, we find Crisp's riff on the classic to be a delicious variation.

Another interesting spin on a classic is Crisp's Baked Texas Goat Cheese & Marinara. A bowl of Crisp's tangy marinara is topped with a mound of creamy goat cheese, and served with their Drunken Garlic Bread, which is soaked in wine, topped with mozzarella, then lightly baked.

The tangy marinara sauce is eclipsed by the flavorful drunken bread; the combination of both is tangy, creamy, rich and flavorful.

Finally, we sampled an intriguing entree. Called Surf & Turf Risotto, it consists of caramelized scallops, short rib risotto, with asparagus, spinach, and a veal stock reduction.

Again, Crisp's deft handling of seafood is apparent. Scallops are gently caramelized and have a great texture; the chewiness that overcooked scallops can exhibit is blissfully absent. The beefy flavor of the smooth risotto is front and center, and the result is a nicely executed entree that we can easily recommend.

Throughout our several visits to Crisp, we've been very pleased with the service from the friendly, well-trained staff. Everyone from the quirky yet charming hostesses to the smoothly professional wait staff to the chef and management team are helpful, engaging, and enhance the experience at Crisp.

When successful Houston restaurants venture up I-45 to open a Woodlands location, the results can be mixed. In many cases, the Woodlands outpost doesn't live up to the reputation of the original. Under the watchful eye of Chef Franz Garcia, Crisp's kitchen turns out a variety of interesting appetizers, entrees, and pizzas, and executes them with verve and the all-important consistency. Service is professional and friendly, and the environment is cozy and comfortable.

In short, Crisp is an excellent addition to the Woodlands dining scene, and we expect that the staff will soon tire of seeing us frequently in the future.

Crisp | 2520 Research Forest Dr. | The Woodlands, Texas 77381
832-562-2520 | crispwoodlands.com

 

 

Note: HTownChowDown contributor Kim Bellini has also reviewed Crisp, in her excellent I Chew and Review blog. Here's Kim's review of Crisp.

Copyright 2023 Nurick + Associates