Back in the 80's, I lived in Austin, and there was a chain burger location I really enjoyed. Called Carl's Jr., it was a west-coast burger chain that had recently expanded into Texas. Their burgers were good; considerably better than the big fast-food chains, and even going so far to give local favorite What-a-burger a run for your money. Sadly, the economic downturn caused Carl's Jr. to pull out of Texas entirely.
(That's the Western Bacon Cheeseburger pictured above. When I first tried one over two decades ago, I thought they had hit upon perhaps the perfect cheeseburger formula: a charbroiled beef patty, American cheese, bacon, crisp onion rings, and BBQ sauce on a toasted bun.)
On January 12, dinner will be served from 5pm to 7pm at the Discovery Green ice rink downtown.
On January 13, a pre-opening lunch will be served from 11am to 1pm at at new store: 8491 Hwy 6 N.
As 2010 draws to a close, it's time for us to look back at this remarkable year, and recognize the people, places, and things that we'll most fondly remember.
Trend of the Year
Burgers, burgers, burgers. The humble hamburger represents a full-fledged trend in the Houston dining scene. Always a popular choice, we've seen it elevated to new heights by both fine dining establishments and neighborhood joints. It seems that every other new restaurant features a signature burger, and the result is that diners can enjoy a superb meal for an amazingly modest tariff.
Opening of the Year
Caffe Bello. Tony Vallone has been the master of fine dining in Houston for decades, and many an eyebrow was raised when he announced plans to open a restaurant in Montrose. This was not the playground of his usual crowd, but Tony, son Jeff, and savvy young partner Scott Sulma quickly charmed the denizens of Montrose with their spin on modern Italian cuisine, including the tasty, thin-crust pizzas that left all the critics swooning.
Honorable Mentions: Samba Grille, The Burger Guys, Cinq.
Burger of the Year
Hubcap Decker at Hubcap Grill. This category was a tough one in 2010 - we sampled dozens of fantastic burgers, and didn't even work our way to the end the list of places we wanted to try. But one burger stood out for us among all the rest - Ricky Craig's superlative Hubcap Decker, perhaps the finest incarnation of a traditional double cheeseburger we've ever encountered.
Honorable Mentions: Samba Grille Burger, Bleu Cheese Burger at Hubble & Hudson Kitchen, Beaver Burger
Foodie of the Year
Dr. Ricky. Anyone following the Houston food scene knows that Houston has no shortage of people who are willing to share their experiences and opinions about food and dining. But we think that Dr. Ricky goes above and beyond, and educates his audience with every post. His knowledge of food is vast, and we had the pleasure of dining with him and learning that the man is just as insightful and interesting in person as he is online.
Honorable Mentions: Robb Walsh, J.C. Reid, Nishta Mehra
Critic of the Year
Katharine Shilcutt. When Robb Walsh stepped down as critic for the Houston Press, a vacuum was formed, and we were very curious to find out who would fill it. Enter Katharine Shilcutt, a popular local blogger and foodie who had recently started making great contributions to the Press's Eating Our Words blog. Shilcutt had big shoes to fill, but her engaging writing style, quick wit, and genuine love of exploring new places made her the right choice for the Press.
Honorable Mentions: Alison Cook, Sarah Rufca
Restaurateur of the Year
Bryan Caswell. We've watched Bryan Caswell expand his sphere of influnce from the kitchen of Hotel Icon to the living rooms of foodies across America. Along the way, he's opened what many consider to be the best seafood restaurant in the United States (REEF), an outstanding slider joint (Little Bigs), and a unique spin on Texas Italian cuisine (Stella Sola). Between all this he had a chance to represent Houston on The Next Iron Chef, and explain to up-and-coming cooks why they need to work in a Waffle House. Next up? Opening a classic Tex-Mex place in Montrose with Robb Walsh. After that, we expect a run for the Governor's Mansion.
Honorable Mentions: Monica Pope, Jeff Vallone, Cary Attar
Chef of the Year
Cesar Rodriguez. Houston is a town with a lot of churrascarias. But one, Samba Grille, stands above them, with an impressive slate of composed dishes alongside the savory grilled meats. Chef Rodriguez has brought his years of experience (with both the Vallone and Cordua organizations) to this new restaurant, and right out of the gate the new kitchen was firing on all cylinders. We attended the soft opening, and can't remember a new organization ever executing so well. The result was that after being open for only a month, Samba was on every critic's short list for 2010, and deservedly so. From unique soups to a top-notch burger, the kitchen at Samba Grill delivers, thanks to Chef Rodriguez's watchful eye at the helm.
Honorable Mentions: L.J. Wiley, Jeramie Robison, Austin Simmons, Bryan Caswell
Restaurant of the Year
Hubcap Grill. There are tens of thousands of restaurants in Houston, and the safe choice would be one of the city's superb fine dining establishments. But to us, Hubcap Grill sums up what a great restaurant is all about: A superlative product delivered with vision and passion, making its guests very happy. A tiny location in the shadow of the tall buildings downtown, Hubcap Grill has become Houston's go-to spot for great burgers, due to the hard work and brilliant insight of Ricky Craig, the chef and proprietor. Ricky's approach to designing a burger is as meticulous as the work of any Cordon Bleu-trained chef, and the results speak for themselves: Hoardes of satisfied guests, and a list of accolades including three coveted stars from Alison Cook. We concur with the esteemed Ms. Cook; Hubcap Grill has succeeded, and is among the very best restaurants to be found in the city.
Honorable Mentions: Samba Grille, RDG+Bar Annie, Chez Roux
It's an exciting time to live in the Woodlands. Every month brings two or three interesting new places to eat. However, as a burger lover, 2010 has been more down than up - we still lament the closing of Tesar's, home of one of the best burgers that we've ever had the pleasure of enjoying. We've sampled some very good burgers out here, but none have yet climbed that lofty perch that is left vacant by the closing of Tesar's.
But we keep looking.
Ever since we inadvertently crashed the grand opening party, we've been big fans of Hubbell & Hudson. Their flagship Waterway location is a gourmet grocery store, and upscale bistro, and a highly-regarded cooking school - a combination that warms the heart of any food lover. We were excited to hear that they were planning a second location - where would it be? Downtown Houston? The Galleria?
 |
| Hubbell & Hudson Kitchen |
It turns out that H & H's second location was to be right here in the Woodlands, across on Research Blvd just east of Gosling. Called Hubbel & Hudson Kitchen, it's a tightly edited version of the original concept. The expansive gourmet market has been focused on the gourmet items you might want to pick up on your way home from work, and the bistro has been pared back into a counter-service fast-casual concept.
 |
| What you see as you walk in |
We were very impressed by the concept, and how well it should fit into the modern busy lifestyle. Stopping in on the way home is much more convenient than pulling into HEB's Woodlands Market (or Hubbell & Hudson on the Waterway), yet you still have a store full of high quality items from which to shop.
The market area has a carefully edited selection of high-quality meats, fresh vegetables, cheeses, beer and wine, dry goods, sauces, snacks, and even kitchen tools. If you're heading out for a picnic, this may be the perfect quick stop.
 |
| Grocery aisles at the back of the store |
So is it safe to conclude that Hubbell & Hudson has created an upscale convenience store for the gourmet shopper? Yes, but that's only part of the draw.
Dining is the second part of the H & H Kitchen equation. Along the right side of the store is the meat counter, and at the end of it is the order point for the fast casual restaurant. The menu should look familiar to those who have visited Hubbell & Hudson, although it's been slightly streamlined. The selection of sandwiches and design-your-own steaks are still there, as are the reason we're visiting - the variety of burgers.
Our first burger was the Bistro Burger. It's 10 ounces of house-ground sirloin, topped with white cheddar cheese, thick-cut peppered bacon, finely shredded lettuce, crunchy dill pickle slices and and grilled onions. It's served on a soft housemade bun, with a side of fries.
I enjoyed this burger. The over-half-pound patty was cooked slightly on the well side of medium, but there was still a bit of ooze going on. The smooth, mild cheese was complemented by the peppery bacon flavor, and the pickles added a nice crunch. This burger clearly reflects its quality ingredients, and I'd order it again. But I wasn't blown away.
There was one small problem - the side of fries were nowhere to be seen. When I picked up the burger, the counterman said that he'd bring them out when they were ready. But after five minutes, they hadn't appeared. I didn't want the burger to get cold, so I ate it anyway. On the way out I asked the guy at the counter if they'd forgotten about our fries, and he apologized and asked if I wanted them to go. The idea of re-warming fries at home isn't appealing to me, so I passed.
At this point I was a bit disappointed with my experience here; the burger was good, but not great, and the mix-up on the fries was a blemish on what seemed to be a very smooth operation.
Apparently my search for the next great burger would continue elsewhere. Oh, the sacrifices I make for you guys.
On the way out the door, their greeter, a charming woman named Miriam, asked me if I had enjoyed my visit. I told her about the missing fries, and she asked me to wait while she got the manager.
Ricardo, the manager on duty, apologized profusely for their mistake, and insisted on refunding the entire cost of my meal, asking that I give them another try. (I hadn't identified myself at this point, so I assume that any customer would get the same treatment.) I told him I was impressed by how he handled the situation, and that I looked forward to giving them another chance.
The opportunity came sooner rather than later.
My bride and I were in need of a quick bite the next day, so we decided to return. The place was hopping, and we ordered and were lucky to snare a table. In short order our food arrived. This time I tried a different burger, the bleu cheese burger. Eight ounces of chopped sirloin topped with melted bleu cheese, baby spinach in place of lettuce, and sauteed onions. I splurged an extra dollar to substitute their Parmesan truffle fries for the regular french fries. I also asked for it to be cooked medium rare.
What came out looked gorgeous - the thick, hand-formed patty had an aggressive char, and the bleu cheese had been melted and slightly carmelized. The sauteed onions were totally different than the grilled onions on my previous burger, and the baby spinach was an interesting idea that I was anxious to sample.
I assembled the burger, and bit into it. Wow. This was a whole 'nother level. The confident beefy swagger was front and center; not surprising, since the cooked patty was about an inch thick. The tang of the bleu cheese and the bite of the sauteed onions sang a sharp yet controlled acidic tone that paired perfectly with the earthiness of the beef. The housemade bun was slightly sweet, and was a solid foundation for this superlative burger. The gorgeous patty was indeed cooked medium rare, and the center was warm, pink, and oozing with enough juices that made me go through three napkins before I was done.
Bingo. My new favorite burger in the Woodlands. By a longshot. Even more amazing is the price: $8 with fries. That's a steal for this sort of high-quality burger; a steakhouse could sell this for double the price and still be offering a good value.
Ever since the demise of Tesar's, I lamented the fact that there wasn't a burger out here that I truly craved, and could rank among the very top in Houston. But Hubbell & Hudson has produced a superlative product that stands with Hubcap Grill, Beaver's, and Samba as the very best burgers to be had in Houston.
If you love burgers, you've gotta check them out.
Hubbell & Hudson Kitchen - 4526 Research Forest - The Woodlands - 281-203-5650
For many chefs, owning a restaurant is the ultimate dream. Extending one's vision beyond the plate is a big step, but expertise in the kitchen doesn't necessarily translate into success at the front of the house. We're always excited to see a chef take this big step, but in many cases, we have to wonder if it is a wise one.
Enter Jaime Zelko. She'd won numerous awards for her work as Executive Chef at Bistro Lancaster, and her cuisine drew high praise from patrons. When she announced that she was opening her own place in the Heights, we were looking forward to seeing what would come forth from this creative mind.
She teamed up with Jeb Stuart, who spent five years as Chef at the nearby Shade restaurant, but wanted to step away from the kitchen and focus on the world of wine. She also tapped into family expertise, in the form of her father and uncle, partners in the 50-year-old Zelko Brothers Cabinet and Fixture Company. A fortuitous convergence, since a rather rough 1920's bungalow on 11th Street was selected as the location for the bistro.
Of course, you'd never know that now. The bungalow has been converted into a welcoming space, with the kitchen nestled in the rear, and the main room split by a dividing wall, creating a cozy dining room and a funky bar, complete with mason jar lights. Historic black-and-white photography decorates the walls, and the space is very successful, conveying a down-home comfort with an upscale twist.
Coming in at the start of lunch, we snagged a table, and were greeted by the friendly staff. We immediately noticed a couple of touches we really liked: An arrangement of fresh rosemary on every table, and water service that includes a bottle left at the table. Shortly thereafter we were delivered a unique bread service: Torn pieces of sweet, herby bread, something we rarely find in restaurants. We had to hold ourselves back to keep from devouring every bite.
We'd heard great things about the Boss Burger at Zelko Bistro, so it wasn't a hard choice, although several of the menu's varied comfort food offerings were also calling our names. We ordered the Boss, and when asked how we'd like it cooked, we left it at Jaime's discretion. (We've learned not to second-guess the chef in this situation.)
What arrived was a very impressive-looking half-pound burger, worthy of its name. Served on a thick, airy housemade bun, the patty was obviously hand-formed and sporting an aggressive char. It was topped with a thick slice of cheddar cheese, grilled onions, and shredded iceberg lettuce. Pickles were on the side, and the tomatoes were omitted at my request.
Biting into it revealed a perfectly cooked burger, slightly on the rare side of medium. The ooze factor was well represented; I found myself using the napkin after every bite. The flavor of the beef was rich and mild, the cheddar was smooth, and the caramelized onions added a hint of sweeness. The only flaw was that it was perhaps too mild; a bit more of a bold, beefy flavor would not have been a bad thing. But make no mistake - this is an excellent burger, and one that we would be happy to enjoy again. We've added it to our list (on the sidebar at the right) of Houston's Best Burgers.
We walked away from Zelko Bistro thinking that Jaime and Jeb had a hit on their hands. They've nailed the concept of a comfortable but upscale neighborhood place, and put it in a neighborhood that craves this sort of comfort food. Combine the smart positioning with the beautiful room and Chef Zelko's deft touch in the kitchen, and we expect Heights residents to be enjoying the Zelko Bistro for a very long time.
Zelko Bistro - 705 E 11th Street - Houston - 77008 - 713-880-8691 - ZelkoBistro.com
Every year, the nationwide city guide Citysearch sponsors a Best of Houston contest. It's a contest where Citysearch users vote to name the best local business in a variety of categories.
This year's contest had some peculiar results.
Best Lunch Spot: The Barbed Rose in Alvin
Heck, none might even know of the restaurant's existence.
Apparently The Barbed Rose conducted some sort of grass-roots campaign, complete with bribes incentives for those voting for them. And apparently it was conducted on a large enough scale that a small restaurant in Alvin was able to win all of these categories in America's fourth largest city.
Our comment about "incentives" was based on information from two sources who say they received these incentives. We'll let you decide who's telling the truth.
After a bit more back and forth, we were told "I'm not sure of the exact details implemented by our product team, but needless to say there will be improvements." and "Your feedback allows me to make recommendations to our home office and product leads to make this better."
Further discussion caused the Citysearch rep to add "We've have been working on our BOC product well before today, I assure you."
As someone who tries to seek out the best food in Houston and tell the world about it, I'm disgusted by Citysearch's complicity in this gross act of deception. It calls into question any recommendation or suggestion made by that site. It also calls into questions the ethics of those associated with The Barbed Rose.
I'd suggest that anyone looking to advertise their restaurant or other local business think long and hard before doing business with Citysearch.
I'd suggest that anyone looking for restaurant recommendations look elsewhere.
And I'd suggest that if you're looking for a great meal, you might not want to buy into any hype associated with The Barbed Rose.
In our constant quest (some would say obsession) to locate the best burger in the Houston area, one name kept popping up. "Sam's Deli Diner". "You've gotta try Sam's". "I've been going to Sam's Deli for years, it's the best!" I'd never heard of this place two years ago, but now it's on the radar, and it's exactly the type of burger place I love to find: Small, privately owned, and successful for decades.
Last weekend found us wandering the rats maze / retail wonderland that is IKEA, and presented the perfect excuse to try this legendary hamburger joint. So zipped down I-10 and pulled up to the nondescript strip center location.
Sam's was easy to find, and parking was plentiful on this early weekend afternoon. The place looked clean and inviting, and when we entered we were surprised by the size of the dining room, with a long, linear open kitchen tucked behind a low counter.
Clearly, the place does some business, even if it was nearly empty. We placed our order, and waited for the food to arrive.
The first attempt at my burger was wrong - I requested "dry, no tomatoes" as is my habit, and what came out was neither dry (it was slathered with mayo) nor tomato-free. This was surprising, since the room was essentially empty. The lack of attention on the part of the cook didn't bode well for the burger, but I returned it to the counter, and waited for the replacement to appear.
What came out was perhaps the saddest burger to ever come out of the kitchen from one of Houston's famed burger joints.
The grey, overcooked, machine-formed patty was dry and ooze-free. The cheese was slightly melted; more attached to the bun than to the beef. And the tired looking veggies were huddled under the patty, trying their best to avoid the prying eyes of a hungry patron.
I bit into the burger, hoping that the flavor would be the saving grace. It wasn't. I've had better burgers at McDonald's, and I didn't finish this one.
I've heard uniformly great things about Sam's, and I'm hoping I caught them on an off day. It happens. But one mark of a great restaurant is the ability to always deliver a quality product, and what was served today showed me that it is certainly possible to get a lousy burger at Sam's Deli Diner.
Update: Katharine Shilcutt visits Sam's Deli Diner and shares her experience.
Update: Another opinion, from The Mighty Rib.
Sam's Deli Diner - 11637 Katy Freeway - 281-497-8088
UPDATE: Caffe Bello closed in the Spring of 2011.
I make no bones about it - I'm a big fan of Tony Vallone, and I think his restaurants set the standard that few others in town can even approach. From the food to the service to the setting, Tony and his staff show an attention to detail that is rare in the restaurant business.
(The Vallones are also clients of mine. Ever since my friend Jack Tyler introduced me to Tony almost a decade ago, my company has created all of the web sites for Vallone restaurants, from the original pre-Landry's Grotto to Ciao Bello, and of course for his flagship, Tony's. And as a foodie, they are the best client I could ever have, because every meeting involves wonderful food, and the opportunity to learn from Tony, his son Jeff, Chef Bruce McMillian, their young front-of-the-house wizard Scott Sulma, and the rest of their team of extraordinary minds. It's like being a baseball fan, and being asked to create something for the Yankees.)
So I was very happy to hear from Tony and his son Jeff about the new concept for a restaurant they were creating in Montrose, to be called Caffe Bello. The excitement in Tony's voice was palpable. Caffe Bello really was to be something different, targeted at a young, hip, Montrose crowd, while still maintaining the signature Vallone touches that lift their restaurants above the ordinary. Most restaurateurs who had 45 years under their belts would be coasting, but Tony was visibly excited by the challenge of bringing his art to a whole new generation of patrons.
Caffe Bello is an Italian restaurant, of course. That's what the Vallones do best. But what would Tony bring to Montrose, the epicenter of hip and cool? Driving down lower Westheimer one encounters a veritable who's who of hot, trendy restaurants, with places like Feast, Indika, and Dolce Vita each doing a brisk business. In this setting that craves the new and different, how would Houston's iconic establishment restaurateur create a restaurant to surprise and delight this finicky neighborhood?
The answer: Tony would do this the way he does everything else: By adapting to his customers, and creating for them something unique. And exceeding expectations, which are already high, given the Vallone name attached to the project.
Upon entering Caffe Bello on its first Friday night, we were surprised by how different the space feels. This isn't Tony's with its soaring ceilings and world-class art grabbing your eye. Nor was it Amici, feeling upscale and casual and filled with families and couples on dates. This was edgy -- a long narrow room along Westhimer, exposed brick, no tablecloths. It's fairly dark. A bar hugs one end of the room. It felt more like the Village or SoHo in Manhattan than near downtown Houston.
One new Vallone trademark grabbed us immediately - stunning abstract works by John Palmer. Palmer's canvasses captured the edgy energy of the room, and reflected it back.
The edge extends into the back of the house, with chef Michael Dei Maggi, formerly of Max's Wine Dive and the Rockwood Room helming the kitchen. Chef Dei Maggi is the kind of chef you'd never picture working with Tony Vallone - sporting numerous tatoos that speak volumes about his cutting edge sensibilities. But a look through Dei Maggi's previous gigs shows the sort of creative flair that Montrose craves - he's the type of chef who's looking forward, never backward. We've been a fan of Chef Dei Maggi's work, and were looking forward to seeing how he and Tony would work together.
The youth isn't just in the kitchen. Scott Sulma is a partner in this project. For those who don't know him, Scott is the twentysomething general manager of Tony's, the Vallone's flagship restaurant and considered by many to be the finest restaurant in Texas. Scott brings an intuitive grasp of hospitality and organization to Caffe Bello; he is simply unflappable in very demanding situations, and the fact that a man in his 20's can rise so high in the Vallone organization is testament to his ability.
We drove into Montrose from the Woodlands, and handed off our car to the valet. After a very brief wait, we were seated. The restaurant was going through its soft opening, and hadn't advertised its presence, but the buzz had already started in Montrose, and the dining room was full. It turned out that we were at a table next to Tony, his wife Donna, and their daughter Lauri, there to enjoy dinner and make sure the new store was up to speed.
We perused menu, and were immediately taken by the tightly edited menu of unique offerings. A variety of pizzetta (small, individual pizzas), none of which looked familiar to us. A meatball burger. A chicken-fried sirloin. And a variety of other dishes you'd never seen on the menu at Tony's, Ciao Bello or Amici.
We couldn't wait to order.
First came the bread service - instead of the expected basket, it was placed on a sheet of brown paper, and casually arranged. Of course, being a Vallone joint, the casual arrangement somehow looked effortlessly artistic.
The breads were warm, housemade, and had surprisingly complex flavors - we fought over the dense, chewy, sweet roll, and fortunately more were quickly delivered when ours was devoured.
We jumped around the menu, ordering items that looked most fascinating. First up was a pizzetta - one with bresaola (thinly sliced cured beef) pear, taleggio and Italian truffle honey.
Rarely am I a fan of what I call "designer" pizza - I am a devoted pepperoni guy. But this pizza was outstanding - bubbly, crispy, slightly sweet crust, dense, chewy, smoky beef, creamy and herby white cheese, and the tangy bite of the pears made this a dish we'll be reordering as soon as possible. Even my lovely bride, who is not a terribly adventurous diner, found herself drawn to this creation. A pity, because that meant I had to share it with her. But love conquered... at least this time.
While I dolefully watched my wife enjoy her last slice of pizza, Tony caught my eye from the next table. He handed me a plate, and on that plate was a sandwich. As was the theme for the evening, it was no ordinary sandwich.
First, half of it was missing, and Tony's wry smile let me know who had tested it. Second, it was a veal cutlet grinder, containing a gently breaded slice of veal, some fresh mozzarella, roasted peppers and greens, and it was served on a housemade ciabatta bun. The bite of the peppers, the smooth, lush cream of the mozzarella, and the mild beefy flavor of the veal played together like a well-practiced band, with each ingredient playing well on its own, but the combination being so much more than the sum of the parts.
This demostrated something I learned years ago - if Tony or Jeff suggests something, do not pass it up. And if Tony orders something for himself, prepare to be wowed.
Tony was very interested to know what I thought of the dish, and he was very happy when I raved about it. His interest caught me off guard when he asked for my feedback the first time, many years ago. The man is a true master of the culinary arts, yet his humility is a guiding force... he really wants to know what makes each and every guest happy, and he will figure out how to give it to them. He's built a very successful business doing so, and his patrons display the sort of loyalty that is unheard of in the restaurant industry. There's a reason for this.
Back to the food. Next out of the kitchen were the diver scallops saltimbocca.
We've always enjoyed Tony's seafood offerings, but this was something totally different. Rich, silky, just-past-al dente scallops were blanketed in thick-sliced, earthy prosciutto, and a sharp, sour caper agresto added a bold note. Served with tomato and grilled asparagus, this small plate demonstrated convincingly that combining the deft Vallone approach with daring Dei Maggi strokes was going to lead us in some deliciously unexpected directions.
After a brief break, it was time for the entree. I love chicken-fried steaks, and I honestly never expected to see one served at a Vallone place. But here it is:
Unsurprisingly, this is not a typical chicken-fried steak. Tender sirloin was hand-breaded, and topped with truffle cream gravy - the mild, soulful truffles were a nice bonus. The accompaniment for this dish was the side of whipped potatoes, highlighted with reggiano cheese. We've never before encountered a chicken-fried steak that spoke to us with an Italian accent, but we're glad we tried this one. The quality of the meat alone made a huge difference, and adding the Italian accent elevated this dish to new heights.
Around this time Jeff Vallone wandered over, and said we had to try something. In this case, "something" proved to be their orecchiette pasta, a simple but unique dish composed of pasta, rapini, grape tomatoes, and breadcrumbs.
Breadcrumbs? The breadcrumbs were crunchy, and added a delightfully new texture to the slightly tart pasta dish, and the rapini added an assertive bitterness that was deftly offset by the acid from the tomatoes. Again, the rule of thumb: If Tony or Jeff suggests something, do not pass it up.
At this point, I was so full as to nearly be in pain, but I've learned that I cannot bring my bride or our daughter to a Vallone restaurant without ordering dessert. Thankfully, they were doing the selecting at this point, so in my food-induced haze I sat back and watched what came out: First were petite, housemade ice cream sandwiches.
Both the cookies and the ice cream were housemade; we were particularly taken with the strawberry, which was lusciously creamy and studded with pea-sized chunks of fresh strawberry.
The end of the meal was a staple of any Vallone dessert menu - Elizabeth's cheesecake. Finally we'd get something that was familiar. Or so I thought.
This was a remarkable juxtaposition of the familiar with the new - the silky, lutescent filling and the delightfully crispy crust were present and accounted for, but the serving was a bold rectangle, the topping was thick, rich caramel sprinkled with nuts, lightly caramelized bananas were sliced on the side, and a smear of delicate, ambrisial butterscotch sauce punctuated the service. Apparently even family icons are not safe from the twists that come forth from Chef Dei Maggi's mind.
This remarkable meal speaks volumes about how well things can turn out when you assemble a team with culinary talent and let them do what they do best. And we were again amazed (although by now we should expect it) that a restaurateur who's been successful for over four decades can create a new, cutting edge restaurant, and delight an audience that probably wasn't born when he opened his first location.
I've been accused more than once of being a fan of Tony Vallone's, and I cannot dispute this. Tony is the textbook definition of a master restaurateur: His restaurants are considered to be among the very best anywhere, and he's been keeping them there for over four decades.
Caffe Bello shows that the master hasn't lost his touch, and that he's assembled a team that can translate the legendary Vallone experience into one that will be embraced by a cutting-edge audience. I think that sums up Tony's philosophy:
The food will always be changing, but excellence never goes out of style.
Caffe Bello - 322 Westheimer - 713-520-5599 - CaffeBello.com
Ever since they opened we'd heard great buzz about the Hubcap Grill, Ricky Craig's tiny burger joint nestled next door to the Alden Hotel downtown. We visited shortly after they opened, but we were underwhelmed by the burger... it was good, but we weren't blown away.
Our foodie friends assured us that this was an anomaly, and we recently revisited to find out for sure. A rainy Wednesday proved to be a great day to visit, because for once they weren't packed to the gills.
The Hubcap Grill truly is a tiny place. Only a handful of tables exist inside, there are a few more on the now-covered outside patio. We've seen the lines at lunch; savvy downtown burger lovers have turned this place into an institution.
During our visit, Ricky's dad was manning the counter, while Ricky and his cooks were in the back whipping up the burgers. Ricky was gracious enough to give us a brief demonstration of what makes the Hubcap Grill's burgers special:
So how was the burger? In a word: Spectacular.
Hubcap's style of burger is a thin, traditional fast-food-style burger, but the similarities to any fast food chain end there. The beef is hand-formed, well balanced between lean and fat, and extremely fresh. Ricky griddles it on a small, hot, well-seasoned griddle, and the result is a deliciously caramelized crust on a deliciously juicy patty. The cheese is American, melted to an oozy flow of goodness, and the meat/cheese ratio is dead on. The vegetables are cut in-house and extremely fresh, and the bun is custom made each day for Hubcap and lightly toasted. The finishing touch on our burger were some soulful grilled onions, marinated overnight and lightly grilled, retaining flavor and moisture.
What impressed us most about Hubcap Grill's approach to burgers is the attention to detail. Clearly, Ricky Craig is a chef who is passionate about burgers, and he has done his homework. Everything from the meat to the condiments to the bun has been thought out and refined. The fries are fresh, hand-cut and prepared using a painstaking process that results in some of the very best in town. Even the beverages are carefully considered: Bottled soda instead of fountain, assuring that the flavor doesn't drift because the fountain is out of calibration.
We applaud Ricky Craig's approach to burgers, and his attention to detail. And the proof is in the result. We are proud to list Hubcap as one of Houston's Best Burgers, moving ahead of Christian's Totem as the best traditional burger to be found in Houston.
And we won't wait so long to go back.
Hubcap Grill - 1111 Prairie - Houston 77002
713-223-5885 - www.hubcapgrill.com
Ever since we moved to the Woodlands half a decade ago, we've frequented Jasper's, the Market Street home of Kent Rathbun's "Upscale Backyard Cuisine". A recent glorious Saturday morning had us craving brunch, so we headed over to Jasper's, and snagged a spot on the shaded patio. We'd not been in a while, and the patio was just as inviting as we had remembered. The picture-perfect spring weather didn't hurt, either.
.jpg)
We were in the mood for French Toast, and Jasper's Vanilla French Toast sounded superb, complete with Carmelized Honey-Banana Syrup and Applewood Smoked Bacon. So we ordered, and after a slightly longer than expected wait, our plate arrived.
.jpg)
So this is a brunch entree at Jasper's? One tiny slice of bacon? Two pieces of toast, cut in half, one slightly burned and one undercooked? I suppose the smattering of fresh berries was supposed to make up for the miserly portions. It didn't.
Honestly, this plate makes me wonder about what's going on in the kitchen. We understand that cost control is an important part of designing a menu, but one skimpy half-length slice of bacon? Two pieces of toast? Heck, even IHOP is more generous, and if your upscale brunch falls short in a comparison to IHOP, you have serious problems.
We grudgingly finished our order (the good housemade syrup disguised the burnt flavor of the toast fairly well) but were still quite hungry. So we decided to order something else; in this case, Jasper's Potato-Leek Hashbrowns.
.jpg)
What arrived were two lightly browned potato discs, with some leek and scallion mixed with the potato. Nice presentation, but it resulted in one crucial problem: Once you get away from the crust, the hash browns aren't brown at all, and in this case they were nearly uncooked and mushy. We left most of them on our plate.
We've been big fans of Jasper's since they opened in the Woodlands, but this brunch confirmed rumors we'd been hearing about the product slipping. Hopefully Chef Rathbun will visit from Dallas and straighten things out at his Woodlands location, especially now that he's got serious competition from Tesars across the street. Tesars' brunch is nothing short of spectacular, miles ahead of Jasper's lukewarm effort.
We received an interesting tip this week about a new place that had opened on Kuykendahl, a couple of miles south of the Woodlands. Called South Street Dining, it's an ambitious new restaurant located in a strip center in Tomball.
We drove down yesterday for lunch, and almost missed the place. From the outside, it's unremarkable, although there is a pleasant deck overlooking the parking lot. But once you open the heavy wooden doors, you're in for a surprise.
Inside you'll find a gorgeous, upscale dining room, finished in woods and natural stone, decorated in soft hues of taupe and tan, elegantly lit and very inviting. A slightly more casual bar area is to the left, with flat screens showing various sporting events. It's a very inviting interior, and considerably more elaborate than we expected.
It was also cold. We decided to lunch on the patio, enjoying the gorgeous Spring day in Texas. We visited for a late lunch, and there were only a handful of patrons scattered throughout the establishment.
Iced tea appeared promptly, and our waiter offered to bring us some bread. The bread service was simple but quite good, warmed french and herb bread, served with two flavored butters - honey cinnamon and chipotle. The bread was very good, and the attention to detail boded well for the upcoming meal.
Now on to the entree. We scanned the lunch menu, and noticed a variety of burgers, sandwiches, and some more ambitious beef, chicken, and fish entrees. Our eyes locked on to the chicken-fried steak, offered with some interesting sides, including garlic mashed potatoes and fried corn fritters. Very southern. Having found one of our very favorite chicken-fried steaks at Tomball's Goodson's Cafe, we ordered.
After a brief wait, the dish appeared. It was plated tall; the mashed potatoes served as an easel for the chicken-fried steak, and the dish was garnished with parsley and an odd, blue corn tortilla chip. Artistic, but somewhat awkward.
We cut into the chicken-fried steak, and applied a bit of the brown gravy. The steak was flavorful and not terribly overcooked, but the breading was a bit soft. The housemade brown gravy had a lush bacon flavor and a rich fatty texture; it was miles ahead of the white gravy served with most CFS plates. The size of the steak was good but not overwhelming; a nice choice for lunch, when taking leftovers is often not an option. This wasn't the best CFS we've ever tasted (or even in the top ten) but it was enjoyable nonetheless.
Less successful were the mashed potatoes. They were whipped, smooth, creamy, but nearly flavorless. We'd venture a guess that they came from a box; there was no sign of any skin or chunks of potato in the smooth presentation.
The corn fritters (also served with a garnish of corn chips) were a bit better; soft yet slightly gritty, with a gentle corn flavor coming through the fried surface. We kept finding ourselves drawn back to them as the meal progressed.
All in all, we enjoyed our visit to South Street. Clearly, the owners are planning something ambitious here. The interior is beautiful, the service is friendly, and the food is generally good. We don't think the kitchen currently lives up to the promise of the marketing or the decor, but we still found the experience to be quite enjoyable.
We'd recommend the spot for either a date or an outing with friends, and we plan to return in the future.
South Street Dining
24914 Kuykendahl Road
Tomball, TX 77375-3381
(281) 255-3141