"Chicken Fried Steak. There's a new place serving good ones." whispered one of my foodie friends.
That's one sure-fire way to get my attention. There are some great chicken fried steaks to be had in the Houston area, but they're few and far between, and there are plenty of mediocre ones that are better avoided. I've been hoping for a great CFS that's closer to the Woodlands than Tomball.
The establishment that generated this comment is the new Texas Beer Garden, located just northwest of the Woodlands, on Hwy 1488 just west of 2978. It's a roomy, comfortable place that's already become a neighborhood hangout. For those concerned with a dark, boozy bar, rest assure that this isn't it -- the focus is more on the food than the beer.
The menu is long on traditional Texas grub - burgers, BBQ, sandwiches, and the aforementioned chicken fried steak all caught our attention. So we sampled a few items on two visits, and here were our impressions.
First up was the burger. It's large, hand-formed, and made with good quality beef. Toppings are generally fresh, but the lettuce looked a bit long of tooth. One snag is that the kitchen insists on cooking the burger to medium well or above - if you like your burgers medium rare, you're not going to be happy. The beef could have also used a touch more seasoning, a minor quibble which is easily fixed.
Next we sampled a BBQ plate, with pulled pork and sausage. The serving was generous, and the pulled pork was good - it had a nice rich smoky flavor, and very little of the sweet BBQ sauce was required to be added. The sausage was unremarkable. They do offer a variety of different sausages, so perhaps more exploration is required.
The lauded chicken-fried steak wasn't available on our first visit, but we sampled it when we returned. A nicely crisped crust wrapped a tender but not overly juicy slab of beef. We suspected that this wasn't hand-breaded in-house, and this was confirmed by the staff. The gravy was tasty but a bit under seasoned. We see serious potential here, and hope that the dish will be taken to the next level.
I'd be remiss in pointing out that this is a family-friendly place... perhaps a bit too family friendly. When we visited on a weekend night, the place was literally overrun with kids from toddler to elementary school age running wild around the restaurant.
The outdoor patio was more daycare than dining area, and one couldn't walk around the dining room without the risk of stumbling over an unruly kid. The harried wait staff didn't have time to deal with this, but we think management needs to be willing to talk with parents who won't keep their children seated at the table.
We see great promise for the Texas Beer Garden. The food has the potential to become very good. If the management can get control of the dining room back from the hoards of children that run rampant, we'll be looking forward to returning.
Texas Beer Garden | 2714 FM 1488, Magnolia | 281-356-2337
As the Woodlands grows, we're excited to watch the food scene grow with it. This little 'burb is attracting all sorts of interesting restaurants, from chef-driven bistros to new concepts from national chains. But some things are still hard to find.
UPDATE: Chef Stone has left Vallone's to pursue other opportunities.
Vallone's, the hot new steakhouse project from the team behind Tony's, has named Jay Stone as its Chef de Cuisine. Vallone's is a collaboration helmed by Tony's executive chef Grant Gordon and Tony's GM Scott Sulma. Tony Vallone, Houston's legendary restaurateur, is rumored to be consulting on the project as well.
(Tony Vallone has a storied history of discovering and nurturing great culinary talent, including top Houston chefs Mark Cox [owner and executive chef of Mark's], Marco Wiles [owner and executive chef of Da Marco] and Olivier Ciesielski [owner and executive chef of L'Olivier], who all perfected their craft under Tony's watchful eye.)
Chef Jay Stone |
Chef Stone was formerly executive chef at Spectrum Catering, and was the driving force behind the Wicked Whisk food truck, cited by Houston Mayor Annise Parker as her favorite food truck.
(He also collaborated with Corkscrew BBQ's pitmaster Will Buckman on the groundbreaking Wicked Corkscrew pop-up experimental dinner, the first to combine the techniques and recipes of a classically trained chef with the award-winning meats of one of Texas's top BBQ joints.)
We've been big fans of Jay's innovative cooking since we first got to sample it, and are looking forward to seeing what he'll produce in collaboration with the consummate culinary professionals of the Vallone organization.
Having Jay Stone and Grant Gordon collaborate in the kitchen reminds me of the friendship (and rivalry) between the two great 20th century artists Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse. The collaboration and creative tension that can result from having this much culinary talent under one roof promises to make Vallone's one of the city's most exciting kitchens.
There's a certain unique appeal to an upscale beachside resort. The sun, the sand, and the tropical breeze combine to form a relaxing backdrop for doing absolutely nothing... but doing it in style. Here in the Woodlands, we've got plenty of sun, occasional breezes, but no sand to speak of.
But what we do have is the only Tommy Bahama outpost in Texas.
Tommy Bahama is a beach resort lifestyle brand, offering casual clothing, swimwear, accessories, and more. Basically everything you'd need for a quick trip to St. Maarten. They also operate a group of restaurants at a dozen or so of their resort locations, including the prime spot on Market Street overlooking the central park.
Inside the building is the clothing boutique, a busy bar, and a meandering restaurant complete with a shaded patio overlooking dancing water fountains. You'll find an energetic crowd of well dressed locals relaxing, sipping mojitos, and enjoying the resort-style setting.
The scene is definitely upscale and very engaging, but we were skeptical about the food. We'd visited shortly after the restaurant opened, and were distinctly underwhelmed by the offerings. But we'd heard rumors of a new chef running the kitchen, so it was time to reevaluate.
A recent balmy summer evening seemed like the perfect time to find out if the kitchen had upped its game to keep up with the hopping bar. So we donned our favorite tropical resort-wear and headed down to Market Street.
We were greeted by an elegant young hostess who apologized for a half-hour wait. After about ten minutes we were shown to our table. We perused the drink menu, wanting to get fully into the tropical resort spirit. Many of the drinks were enticing, with interesting ingredients that invoked memories of the islands. Looking around, it appeared that the de rigueur libation was indeed the mojito, a favorite of ours.
Our energetic waiter confirmed that the mojitos were not only popular but were very good, so we followed his lead. We placed our dinner order, and watched the sunset through the louvered windows.
In short order our appetizer appeared. We'd sampled this appetizer a while back at a Market Street restaurant tour, and our remembrance was very positive. A generous disk of goat cheese was encrusted with chopped macadamia nuts, drizzled with a soy glaze, and served over a rustic mango salsa.
The appetizer was as good as we remembered - the lush, creamy goat cheese was complemented by the sweetness of the fresh mango, and the soy provided a subtly salty counterpoint. The appetizer was devoured in short order, and it took great restraint not to order another one. But our entrees were on the way.
We were intrigued by the parmesan-encrusted (Tommy Bahama is big on encrusting) chicken. It was thematically served in a seaside diorama complete with a mashed potato beach, green bean rushes, and the casually landed encrusted chicken breast, the slightly spicy red pepper cream sauce lapping gently at the shore.
Doing our best impression of a resortwear-garbed Godzilla, we dug into the dish, and were pleased with the restrained, surprisingly complex flavors. The red pepper cream sauce was a well conceived adjutant to the encrusted chicken, adding just a hit of bite to the moist, tender chicken and the barely crispy toasted parmesan.
Tropical resorts are about indulgence, and we found an old-style indulgence on the daily menu. Steak Diane is something we've not seen on a restaurant menu in years. We were drawn to this classic dish, and wanted to see how Tommy Bahama's kitchen styled their interpretation.
We believe that classics become so for a reason, and disagree with critics who deride a restaurant for not jumping on the food trends of the moment. The nicely marbled strip steak was cooked as requested (medium rare, as we prefer) and topped with the traditional black pepper and garlic. Rather than cooking it in butter, a smoothly buttery/cream sauce featured lump crabmeat was spread over half the steak, giving us just enough of the essence of the sea to suit the tropical setting.
In the past, we'd dismissed Tommy Bahama as being strong on scene and weak in the kitchen. If this visit was any indication, we had severely underestimated the establishment's talented chefs. We're looking forward to a return to Tommy Bahama to explore the rest of the menu.
Tommy Bahama | 9595 Six Pines Road | The Woodlands | 281-292-8669
It's been over half a year since we updated our listing of our recommended places to eat in the Woodlands, but we've been eating almost every day, searching for the best spots to recommend. From burgers and Tex-Mex to handmade pastas, fresh seafood and steaks, these are our favorite restaurants in the Woodlands area.
Crab Fritter at Hubbell & Hudson |
Cheeseburger with Garlic Fries at Jax Burgers, Fries and Shakes |
Lunch special at Kan's Sushi |
The Jerk at Crust Pizza |
Chopped Beef Sandwich at Corkscrew BBQ |
Mixed Grill at The Olive Oil |
This time, we're presenting our recommendations here in an embedded Google Map. What do you think of this format?
View Where to Eat Now in the Woodlands in a larger map
When a foodie thinks about Austin, what often comes to mind is a quirky, casual spot that serves good food in a somewhat offbeat setting. Ever since Austin was just a college town and a hippie hangout, it's had its own sensibility that is slightly out of step with the rest of Texas. In a good way, of course.
So how will Torchy's be received in Houston, a town known for its hundreds of family-run taquerias? We went to find out.
Dining room at Torchy's Tacos |
Green Chile Pork taco at Torchy's |
Our first surprise was the relatively small size of the tortilla, which was generously overflowing with fillings. The second surprise was the tremendous amount of cilantro - no folks, that's not lettuce in the photo. Biting into the taco confirmed the over-abundance of cilantro, not surprisingly. When we raked off 3/4 of it, we were left with a fairly bland taco; the mild pork flavor was lost beneath the onions and the remainder of the cilantro. We can think of a number of taquerias around town that put this semi-traditional taco to shame. On to the next one.
For many folks, Tex-Mex means fajitas, so next up was Torchy's Beef Fajita taco. The ingredients are right out of Tex Mex 101: Marinated, grilled skirt steak, grilled onions and peppers, shredded cheese and pico de gallo.
Beef Fajita tacos at Torchy's |
Biting into this taco, we were impressed by the tender quality of the fajita beef, but we found ourselves wishing for a bolder marinade; the beefy flavor was very mild. At the suggestion of staff, we added their avocado hot sauce - a creamy combination of tomatillos, avocados, and roasted jalapenos. This certainly added some heat, but now all we tasted was the sauce. We think the solution is a bolder marinade, not a saucy disguise.
Our final taco was the one we'd repeatedly heard great things about: Torchy's Trailer Park taco. Fried chicken chunks, green chiles, shredded cheese, pico, and lettuce are the standard toppings, and at the advice of a Torchyphile we know, we ordered it "Trashy", with the lettuce removed and a dollop of melted queso on top.
Trailer Park taco at Torchy's |
This taco was a hot mess. Good quality fried chicken, but utterly bland pico de gallo and a morass of cheese made me think of a KFC chicken bowl, not Austin's most-talked-about taco. A dab of Torchy's poblano hot sauce helped, but we're firm believers that you shouldn't have to fix a dish by smothering it in sauce to make it good. The result was certainly edible, but it's not something we'd seek out again.
To say we were disappointed with Torchy's would be an understatement. Like many things from Austin, the reality doesn't live up to huge level of hype. On the plus side, the ingredients seemed to be high quality, but on the minus, Torchy's can't be bothered making fresh tortillas. The individual tacos look good on paper, but spotty execution and weird proportions of ingredients leave you with a taco that just tastes bland. The result is a mediocre experience by Houston taco standards.
That may be good enough in Austin. In a Tex-Mex mecca like Houston, Torchy's is going to have to up their game.
Torchy's Tacos | 2411 South Shepherd Dr. | 713-595-8226 | TorchysTacos.com
Growing up, I enjoyed burgers, but like many teenagers, considered them to all be pretty much the same. Only when I moved up to Austin to attend UT did I begin to appreciate the differences between a good burger and truly exceptional one. And on my frequent visits back to Houston, I'd often crave a burger.
On one trip, I was fortunate enough to stumble into the then-new Beck's Prime, and I realized I had found a real Houston treasure. Beck's is a chain, but it's locally owned and run; the opposite of an impersonal franchise. And the burgers - thick, juicy, with quality ingredients and the mesquite-charred flavor that was anything but mundane. Beck's became my go-to burger place, and to this day remains my benchmark for an excellent burger.
I realized that I'd not visited Beck's in months, and thought it would be the perfect way to kick of National Burger Month. I met fellow burger aficionado Kerry Stessell (of Hot Line Pepper Products fame) at the scenic Woodlands location, ordered at the counter, and grabbed a table.
Dining Room at Beck's Prime |
In short order our burgers appeared. I went with the classic - a simple cheeseburger. It's a favorite of mine; the fresh veggies and American cheese compliment rather than overpower the lush mesquite flavor of the beef, and the freshly baked bun serves as a foundation to this formidable burger.
Cheeseburger at Becks' Prime |
My companion ordered one of Beck's signature options, Bill's Burger. It adds cheddar cheese, grilled onions, thick-cut bacon, and special Bill's sauce to the Beck's formula. Here the sass of the grilled onions and the slight sweetness of the bacon combine with the mesquite-tinged beef to create a very satisfying combination.
Bill's Burger at Beck's Prime |
Beck's also offers a formidable ahi tuna sandwich among it's non-burger offerings. Heck, you can even get your choice of prime steaks... through the drive-through window.
A great burger or a prime steak through a drive-through window? It's things like this that make Beck's Prime unique, and distinctly Houston. It was a perfect way to kick of National Burger Month, and it's one of the best burgers in town.
One of this burger lover's saddest days of 2010 was the day that Tesar's Modern Steakhouse closed in the Woodlands. Tesar's Magic burger had become the thing of local legend; to this day I've been searching for a burger that comes close to that remarkable creation.
But good things have followed for those involved with Tesar's. Chef Jeromy Robison landed the exec spot at La Colombe d'Or's popular new CINQ restaurant, and has been on everyone's short list of talented young chefs.
The other member of the dynamic duo, Chef Austin Simmons, was recently promoted to Executive Chef at Hubbel & Hudson, the hot gourmet market and bistro in the Woodlands. Austin and I talked burgers on numerous occasions at Tesar's, and I was excited to see how he'd influence the already excellent burgers at H & H.
So I was pleasantly surprised not only to learn of Chef Austin's promotion, but to be invited to sample some of his new dishes on the winter Hubbell & Hudson menu. And I was hoping a burger would be one of the offerings.
After rolling out several new dishes (which will be written about soon) a burger appeared.
Wagyu Burger at Hubbell & Hudson |
I smiled when I noticed that instead of one of H & H's excellent buns, Chef Austin had selected an English Muffin as the foundation for his burger. The half-pound patty was hand-formed Wagyu beef, from an American breed of cattle that produces Kobe beef in Japan. Instead of bacon, crispy prosciutto di Parma was artfully arranged. Fresh arugula and a unique tomato remoulade were piled atop a sunny-side-up egg. No ordinary condiments were to be found. These prime ingredients do not result in a bargain burger - served with the excellent house cut double dip frites, the cost of the burger is $25, not an insubstantial sum.
(I hate to second-guess a chef, but I'm not an egg-on-a-burger guy. When I mentioned this, the burger was whisked into the kitchen, and reemerged in short order without the egg.)
I bit into the burger, and it was a revelation. Front and center was the lush, beefy flavor. The wagyu had been expertly ground; so many times super premium beef doesn't stand up well to grinding, but in this case it had been handled expertly and cooked to a perfect medium rare. The juicy ooze was in full force; this was a rare case where wagyu beef delivered fully on its promise.
The tang of the tomato chutney was a delicious counterpoint to the swaggeringly rich beefy flavor, and this is coming from someone who typically doesn't like tomatoes on a burger. The smooth, almost sweet flavor of the cured prosciutto provided balance, and the subtle crunch added textural interest.
This could very well be the best burger I've ever tasted.
Chef Austin is still fine tuning the burger. He's contemplating a version replacing the egg with one of Hubbell & Hudson's artisan cheeses.
I shudder to think about the difficulty in resisting the result.
Hubbell & Hudson Bistro | 24 Waterway Ave, Suite 125 | The Woodlands, Texas 77380
281-203-5641 | hubbellandhudson.com
Updated Nov 30, 2011
The dining scene in the Woodlands is never still. Restaurants open and close on a regular basis as they try to find the perfect balance of food, service, and atmosphere that will keep notoriously fickle Woodlands patrons coming back.
The Woodlands Market Street (photo credit: The Woodlands Development Co.) |
Most suburbs have the reputation of being filled with chain restaurants, and the Woodlands certainly has its share. But the Woodlands has also attracted more than its share of independent restaurants. We don't discriminate - we enjoy good food no matter who owns the kitchen.
Here are the best restaurants in The Woodlands right now (May 2011). In alphabetical order:
Jerk chicken pizza at Crust Pizza |
Corkscrew BBQ - This new Woodlands food truck is backed by an experienced BBQ team, and the results speak for themselves. Delicious brisket, buzzworthy pulled pork, and perhaps the best cobbler we've tasted in years. Daily specials, too.
Brisket at Corkscrew BBQ |
Wagyu Burger at Hubbell & Hudson |
Burger at Hubble & Hudson Kitchen |
Jasper's - Upscale backyard cuisine is how this Dallas export describes its fare, and we think that fits it to a T. This is Texas cuisine as imagined by Kent Rathbun, an Iron Chef contestant who's known for his innovative takes on hearty food. Great bets include the prime steaks, excellent pork loin, and half-pound burgers. We're always impressed with the care that goes into the excellent side dishes, and their desserts are some of the best in the Woodlands. But you simply cannot miss the housemade potato chips with Maytag bleu cheese. Addictive.
Maytag bleu cheese-topped potato chips at Jasper's |
Schilleci's - The Houston area has become the home to many New Orleans expatriates, and the Woodlands is lucky to be the new home of the Schilleci family's eponymous restaurant. This New Orleans-style restaurant serves up outstanding etoufee and gumbo, and the authentic po boys are as good as you'll find outside of the Crescent City. The secret? The Schillecis import bread from New Orleans for that authentic chewy crunch.
Schilleci's New Orleans Kitchen |
Houston foodies, you won't want to miss this event. Cadillac is presenting its culinary challenge event this weekend (Sept 10-11) at the Galleria. Events each day are at 11:30am, 2pm, and 4pm.
If you're into fine food or fine automobiles, it promises to be a great event. I'll be judging the culinary challenge Saturday at 2pm - all H-Town Chow Down readers are encouraged to drop by and say hello.