You know that great book you've got on the shelf that you've been meaning to read?  Or that film in your Netflix queue that you've meant to watch for months, but you keep putting off?  If you write a food blog, the same thing happens with restaurants.  I've got several that I've been meaning to try, but a variety of excuses keeps popping up.  "I'm on the wrong side of town."  "My bride won't like it."  "James Beard Award nominee Katharine Shilcutt just reviewed it, and I'll never get a table."

Here's what I've been avoiding.  Yes, I'm an idiot.
You know the drill.
Regardless, I was recently visiting with some friends, and the discussion of what to do for dinner came up.  Being the resident foodie, everyone looked in my direction.  We were on the northwest side of town, right by the Beltway, so I immediately thought of a burger place that I've been grossly negligent about trying: The Burger Guys.  Fortunately, the idea was a popular one, so we caravaned down Beltway 8 to Westheimer, then headed west to find The Burger Guys.
Even though it was plotted on our GPS, the store was tricky to find.  Why?  Because they have perhaps the smallest sign known to mankind, and Westheimer is not a street known for subtle advertising.
That, my friends, was what we had to find along Westheimer.  Fortunately, my eagle-eyed bride spotted the sign as we passed, so we did the U-ey and pulled into the lot.
Entering The Burger Guys was a challenge - the counter where you order doesn't have a lot of space near it; the open kitchen and the dining area take up almost all of the restaurant's space.  I let my friends order, then approached the counter.  I asked the charming, knowledgeable woman a couple of questions, and I was pleasantly surprised to hear firm, direct answers.  "The Sonoma over the Houston.  No question."  "The salted caramel shake is fantastic."  It's frustrating when the staff has no opinion, or offers the dreaded "Everything is fantastic!!!"  (You can hear all three exclamation points)  None of this was a problem at the Burger Guys, and that was a great start.
We ordered, then were lucky to discover that the first member of our party had staked a claim to most of the long counter facing the kitchen.  The Burger Guys isn't set up for large parties, so if you come with a big group, expect to be split up or to get very lucky, as we did.  We sat down, absorbed the aromas and the vibe, and watched the parade of burgers and sides coming out.
Houston can be a small town at times, but we were way outside the loop, so we were astonished to run into Vic and Anthony's Michael Fulmer, a man known to frequent only the finest restaurants and houses of ill repute around town.  I'd never seen Fulmer outside the loop, and I had assumed that he would turn to salt if he stepped outside the perimeter of 610... and here he was outside the Beltway.  "Trust me.  It's worth it" he prophesied, and with that, he was gone.  If Fulmer will make the drive to this place, I'm expecting great things.

While waiting, it was time to grab a drink.  We walked over to the dispenser at the back of the room, and this is what we saw:
Be still, my beating heart.
But wait... there's more.
Instead of the generic Coca-Cola (or, heaven forbid, Pepsi) slate of products, we saw remarkably unique soda choices, headlined by none other than Dublin Dr Pepper, the mythical version of Dr Pepper made with real Imperial sugar, and usually only available in the immediate vicinity of Dublin, Texas.  How did The Burger Guys get this beverage that isn't sold in Houston?
"They call me Bootlegger" laughed Jake Mazzu, one of the owners, and thus one of The Burger Guys.  "I drive up to Dublin, and come back with 3,000 pounds of syrup."  That's a 550 mile round trip, and fortunately, the DPS has not been called out to stop Mr. Mazzu, at least not yet.  I was floored.  I was previously impressed by Ricky Craig at Hubcap Grill, and how he only sells bottled soda because he won't tolerate the variations in the mixture.  Here is a kindred spirit; he's willing to personally drive across Texas to source the beverages for his restaurant.  This attention to detail is rare, and as my experience with Hubcap Grill has shown, it can lead to a fantastic burger.
Mazzu introduced me to Clint Wilkinson, his sous chef.  "A sous chef at a burger place?"  would be a reasonable question, but after experiencing The Burger Guys, it doesn't seem presumptuous at all.  These guys could succeed in any kitchen in town (Wilkinson is an alum of Randy Rucker's kitchen, and seems to have survived the experience with his sense of humor intact) and we're lucky to have them all under one roof sharing their passion for burgers.  Wilkinson concocted a milkshake for me, and this was no ordinary milkshake.  Salted Caramel was the flavor, the ice cream was made in house, and yes, it tasted like fresh caramel that had been chilled and salted to balance out the sweetness and creaminess.  My conclusion:  If Clint Wilkinson tells you that he has created a Tabasco and Durian milkshake, you'd be smart to try it.

As if on cue, the food started to appear.  First came the fries.  Normally, I'd be miffed if everything didn't come out at once, but here the fries seemed more like an appetizer.  They were freshly cut, fried in duck fat, nicely crisped outside and tender inside, and flecked with kosher salt.  They were also right out of the fryer, and were hot to the touch.  
Direct from the fryer's duck fat to you
Going beyond Fancy ketchup (detect a trend yet?), The Burger Guys offers a wide variety of housemade dipping sauces, and our group sampled many of them.  Their take on the traditional ketchup grabbed me; it was sweeter than usual, with tangy undertones that I couldn't single out.  I'm not a huge ketchup fan, but this stuff is addictive.  All in all, the Burger Guys produce a top-quality fry, and enhance them with a wide variety of unique dipping sauces.  Again, they go above and beyond.
Now the main course arrived.  All the burger guys burgers carry geographic names appropriate to their blend of ingredients.  I'd chose the Sonoma; I felt it was closest to the basic cheeseburger that I use as a benchmark to compare burger joints.  I did have them leave off the avocado (very Sonoma county, dude) and the aoili, because I am not a fan of mayonnaise on burgers, even if it is housemade.
Superlative ingredients prepared by an expert chef
All burgers start with their beef, and The Burger Guys again go beyond the pale.  They source Akaushi beef, the Texas breed of waygu cattle.  The best steak I've ever eaten was an Akaushi ribeye I enjoyed at Tony's, and I believe that there is no finer beef to be found in America, but I digress.  I was skeptical about its use in a hamburger; I've had several burgers purportedly made from Kobe beef, and none have lived up to the high expectations of this expensive meat.  My theory is that the fatty marbling that makes Kobe so delicious in a steak is ruined in the grinding; it separates from the muscle tissue and boils off on the griddle.  
"We worked with Jonathan Jones (executive chef at Beaver's) and Chris Shepherd (executive chef at Catalan), experimenting until we got the grind just right." Mazzu explained.  I believe that Beaver's makes one of the best burgers in Houston, and Chris Shepherd is renowned for his knowledge of meat and butchering, so putting together this beefy dream team to help get the patty right is a rather impressive accomplishment.  Jake Mazzu is used to working with the best -- in a previous life, he worked at The Fat Duck, Heston Blumenthal's English temple to molecular gastronomy, and one of the most creative kitchens in the world.  The source of Mazzu's high standards and willingness to go to extremes was coming into focus.
But back to the burger.  The half-pound Akaushi patty was expertly griddled; lightly pink in the middle, with a feisty char top and bottom.  Seasoning was restrained; a bit of salt and pepper were all I could taste.  A slice of mild cheddar melted into the top of the patty, and two thick slices of peppery Applewood-smoked bacon hung over the sides.  The bun was an eggy challah-based foundation; fluffy and yellow, with the bottom absorbing much of the delicious ooze that seeped from the patty.  The mouthfeel of the beef is soft and smooth, a characteristic we've noticed every time we've enjoyed Akaushi.  The seasoning was spot on - a nice bold, beefy swagger accented by just enough salt.  Even with the bold toppings the beefy flavor never plays second fiddle.  This is an example of a Burger Perfect Storm:  Superlative ingredients, expert handling, and creative flair balanced by respect for the classics.  Getting any two of these right typically results in a great burger; rare is the restaurant that can pull off all four.

In short, Mazzu is a grandmaster of the grill; here is a brief video of him seasoning and starting a phalanx of burgers.

He makes it look so easy.  I would no doubt be on the receiving end of third-degree burns if I tried this at home.

Others in our group sampled a variety of burgers, and were patient enough to indulge me and let me photograph them as they came out:

Not surprisingly, once the burgers came out (and were photographed) things fell silent in our group, with the exception of occasional happy sounds coming from the full mouths of the assembled burgerphiles.  
Everyone agreed that The Burger Guys creates a fantastic burger, and that the same meticulous attention to detail shown in the burgers extends to the fries, the shakes, and even the fountain sodas.  They have burgers ranging from creative takes on standards to exotic creations with toppings like shredded papaya, roasted beets, daikon, and housemade kimchee.  Remarkably, all cost $8, which is a bargain considering the quality of the ingredients, nevermind the time that goes into each burger.
So where does The Burger Guys fall in the pantheon of Houston burger joints?  Clearly it's one of the rare places at the summit; it's a worthy competitor to Samba Grille, Beaver's, Hubble & Hudson and Hubcap Grill.  But which one is best?
That is a decision that I cannot make for you.  Each of these establishments serves a truly superlative burger.  We in Houston are lucky to have them to choose from.  My suggestion:  If you can't pick, try 'em all.
The Burger Guys | 12225 Westheimer Road | Houston, Texas
281-497-GUYS | TheBurgerGuys.com

Burger Guys on Urbanspoon

March means many things - the return of spring, NCAA basketball, and spring break.  We were itching to get out of Houston, and wanted to explore a new part of the country, so we decided it was time for a road trip.

As Texans, we've done road trips all over the state, so we decided on a new destination:  Tennessee.  Far enough away to be different than what you'd see in Texas, but close enough so that we could complete the journey in a week.  So we did some reasearch, plotted our course, packed up and headed to the Volunteer state.

Our journey out of Texas was taken down US 59 toward Texarkana.  Since we were leaving Texas, we decided to grab Tex-Mex as our last meal in the Lone Star State, and ended up consuming some forgettable enchiladas in a forgettable small town along the route.

Before long we were in the great state of Arkansas, heading east on I-30.  My memory of Arkansas was that there is nothing interesting to see along the entire stretch of I-30.  And that's a shame, because for many driving through the state, that's all they'll see.  We passed through Little Rock and merged with I-40, and took that highway into our first destination:  Memphis.

Memphis is perhaps the prototypical southern city.  Known for the blues, Elvis Presley, Martin Luther King,, Jr. Sun Records, and Beale Street, Memphis has a rich history and a strong tradition of friendly southern hospitality.

Memphis is a town that's on the short list for BBQ lovers, so we knew we'd have to try the city's specialty: Pork ribs.  But our research also revealed that Memphis is known for two other comfort foods:  Burgers and fried chicken.  So we planned to investigate each of these offerings, with the goal of learning how Memphis compared to Houston for these three Southern favorites.  Knowing that schedules can be fluid for some hole-in-the-wall restaurants, we targeted a couple of recommendations from locals in Memphis for the best places to visit to sample these dishes.

First up is fried chicken, and one place kept being mentioned: Gus's Fried Chicken.  This humble spot downtown near the Mississippi River is beloved by locals and visiting foodies alike, so we decided that dinner there was a must.

Gus's was within a mile of our downtown hotel, and on-street parking was available about a block away.  We parked in the slightly sketchy neighborhood, and walked up to this Memphis landmark.

Upon entering Gus's, we made our way past the clot of people waiting for their tables; the line was almost but not quite out the door.  The friendly counterman put our name on the list, and we ended up waiting about 30 minutes for a table. Gus's is a slightly dingy but homey chicken joint filled with everyone from families to couples to business types, and apparently they were all in the mood for fried chicken.  The juke box played a good selection of Memphis blues, making us feel at home and setting the stage for our meal.

Once we were seated, we placed our order and waited for another 20 minutes or so.  Gus's is clearly not a place for folks who are in a hurry.  Locals were split on the merits of white meat vs dark meat at Gus's, so we ordered a piece of each, along with seasoned fries and dirty rice.

After a brief wait, our chicken arrived, and it was time to dig in.  The crust was golden brown and very smooth, and was fairly thick - no one would confuse this for fast-food chicken.  Fried to a golden brown, locals assured us that this was chicken that we would remember.

Our first bite of the breast was a revelation.

The crust was indeed thick and crunchy, and nicely seasoned with just enough heat to keep this Texan's attention.  The chicken within was perfectly cooked and remarkably juicy; I can't remember ever experiencing fried chicken that was this moist.  The spicy seasoning permeated the chicken, and I happily gobbled down every bite.

Next up was the drumstick, also coated with a nice, thick crust.  Biting into it was a slight letdown after the stellar breast; it too was juicy, but almost too juicy as the natural oil of the dark meat was present in copious quantities.

Sides were excellent.  The dirty rice was moderately spicy and had a delicious, earthy flavor.  The fries were frozen but well cooked, with a crispy snap, good fluffy potato flavor, and lightly seasoned.

Gus's World Famous Fried chicken lives up to its reputation.  I've eaten some good fried chicken in Houston, but none measured up to Gus's stellar chicken breast.  So if you're craving the best friend chicken, it's time to drive Outside the Loop and head to Memphis.

Score:  Memphis 1, Houston 0

Next up:  Burgers

Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken - 310 S. Front Street - Memphis, TN 38103 - 901-527-4877

Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken on Urbanspoon

If you've been following this blog, you might have noticed that I have a thing for cheeseburgers.  I travel far and wide trying to find the best burgers around, trying to visit all the new or undiscovered spots that could be hiding the next great burger.

But a Houston burger lover has to keep his scale calibrated.  For a long time, discussion of the best burger in Houston revolved around two places: Lankford Grocery, and the subject of today's post, Christian's Totem.  (They've since opened a second location and rebranded themselves as Christian's Tailgate, but I use the older name to refer to the original I-10 location.)

When I first visited Christian's Totem years ago, it was a revelation.  I'd recently moved back to Houston from Austin, and I was trying to find a great fast-food style burger, in the vein of Dan's Hamburgers in Austin: Thin, griddled patties, oozy melting American cheese, a nicely griddled bun, and fresh veggies.  As much as I enjoy the more upscale burgers, with their thick patties, exotic buns and cheeses, I consider a great fast-food burger to be an iconic meal.  Sometimes it's what is required to satisfy the burger purist in me.
Christian's Totem created the benchmark fast-food burger in Houston, and I'd not been by in a couple of years.  So when I found myself in the area (and hungry) I realized it was time to visit this Houston landmark and determine how well their current burger compares to the best burgers being created around town today.
Entering Christian's Tailgate / Totem, I was first struck with how the shop had been updated.  Gone was the long counter / bar from which you used to order; the feel has become more slick and polished.  I wandered over to the new ordering station, and placed my order, then sat down.  The mid-day crowd was a bit more sparse than I remembered.

After a 15-minute wait, I was still sans-burger, so I walked up to the counter to see how much longer it would be.  "Five more minutes" I was told, and my burger appeared shortly thereafter.

The burger featured a slightly thickish hand-formed patty, griddled and topped with melting American cheese, just how I remembered it.  But closer inspection revealed that it was missing was Christian's near-perfect ooze, an ominous sign.  The patty was only slightly moist, and the cheese was only slightly melty.

Biting into the burger was a bit disappointment

The beef's flavor was completely unremarkable; the bold rich beefy flavor that's a hallmark of the best burgers was absent.  The beef had been cooked more than a bit too enthusiastically; it was uniformly grey all the way through.  And the half-melted cheese congealed quickly, and had an unremarkable flavor and texture.  The generic bun, which had been griddled to a golden brown on my last visit, was only slightly warmed, and rather mushy.

Saving graces were the nicely fresh vegetables; the snap of the lettuce demonstrated just how fresh it was.  But that wasn't enough to save this iconic burger.

If I had been served this burger at Whataburger, I'd have been pleasantly surprised.  But this was Christian's, named by many (myself included) among the best burgers in Houston.

This burger simply didn't measure up.  It is with great sadness that I remove Christian's from the list of Houston's Best Burgers.

Five years ago, Christian's served the benchmark Houston burger.  But the current version was a mere shadow of what had been.  At the same time, upstarts like Hubcap Grill, Beaver's Icehouse, and Samba Grille have advanced the burger game considerably.  Heck, even the out-of-town SmashBurger chain now has a superior product.

The best burger in Houston is a moving target, and sadly Christian's is moving in the wrong direction.  This is the second legendary Houston burger joint that disappointed me, and I hope this trend reverses very soon.

Christian's Tailgate Grill & Bar on Urbanspoon

My bride's birthday was last week, and I wanted to arrange a birthday dinner for her and the immediate family.  One restaurant immediately came to mind:  Ciao Bello, the upscale but casual family-oriented restaurant in Tanglewood owned by the Vallone family.

One thing I love about Ciao Bello is that their menu has items that appeal to everyone.  If you're a foodie, and want to be adventurous, they've got you covered.  But if you're just interested in a good meal, they do a good job with Italian favorites like chicken parmigiana.
Shortly after we were seated, our waiter came by with a precious amuse-bouche.  A single butternut squash raviolo, glazed with a sage cream reduction.  It's my bride's favorite dish, and for Valentine's weekend, it was served with a twist - the housemade pasta was shaped into a heart.  
I told my bride that the heart shape must have been created especially for her birthday.  She gave me that look that tells me that she's indulging me, but she devoured her raviolo and ordered more as her entree.
We were all pretty hungry, so we ordered a pizza for the table.  We decide on one I'd never sampled, a classic with Italian sausage and peppers.  It came out quickly, and our kids attacked it before I could snap a photo, which explains the missing slices.
We really enjoyed this pizza.  The crust was thin and crispy, with just enough chewiness to keep things interesting.  The sweet peppers, fresh basil, and chunks of Italian sausage combined into a mild, savory combination that was enjoyed by both the adults and kids.  Even Alex loved the pizza; he is our 12-year-old pizza connoisseur who is quick to dismiss any pizza that's too spicy or too bland.
I ordered an appetizer that I'd never tried; pork tenderloin carpaccio.  The presentation was lush; the lightly cooked and seasoned pork was sliced thinly, topped with some mild arugula, shaved aged parmesan,  roma tomatoes, then drizzled with a hint of the Vallone's private labelled olive oil.
The overall impression of this dish was mild but complex.  The dominant flavor was that of the parmesan; the fresh arugula added a nice, subtle crunch, and the tenderloin's gently smoky flavor was more of an undertone.
Next up was the pasta, and I was drawn to something else I'd never sampled here:  Bombolotti Amatriciana.  The short, thick tubes of the mombolotti pasta were prepared al dente, and the signature Vallone Amatriciana sauce was a standout; the fresh tomatoes, bits of basil, and slightly crispy guanciale melded into a rich, tangy delight.  Tony Vallone introduced me to this sauce many years ago the first time I shared a meal with him, and it's one I never tire of.
After this hearty pasta, I had to select a light entree, so my eye was drawn to the seafood.  Sea bass sounded like a good choice, and the waiter assured me that the chef was very happy with the fish that had flown in.
What came out was a firm, flaky sea bass steak, deftly cooked and topped with another Vallone classic, the Barolo wine reduction sauce.  The fish was smooth, buttery, light and flavorful, and the robust tang of the Barolo reduction was a fantastic counterpoint to the creamy flavor of the fish.  On the site was some nicely crunchy garlic-grilled rapini, adding another texture and the rich butter-garlic flavor that was a satisfying complement to the fish.
We weren't surprised to enjoy this special occasion at Ciao Bello; ever since it's opened it has become one of our family's favorites.  Three generations were able to each find something they really enjoyed on the menu, something that's very important for a family event like this birthday dinner.  As a bonus, the resident foodie was able to enjoy some new dishes that he'd not experienced before.  
That's a win in anybody's book.

Ciao Bello - 5161 San Felipe - Houston 77056
713-960-0333 - CiaoBelloHouston.com

Ciao Bello on Urbanspoon

When chef Philippe Schmit left the Hotel Derek's hot bistro moderne, we joined Houston's foodie community in wondering where he would be cooking next.  Buzz about a new restaurant on Post Oak was heard, but the rumored opening date came and went.  But restaurant openings are frequently delayed, so we didn't give up hope.

Last week we were excited to hear that Philippe Restaurant + Lounge had opened next door to Robert del Grande's swank newish RDG, and couldn't wait to give it a shot.  When a client meeting got pushed back, the opportunity arose for lunch on their first day of lunch service.  We were there in a flash, and here are our impressions.

First, the location.  BLVD place on Post Oak.  Literally a stone's throw from RDG.  Valet parking, or self-parking behind the building.  Inside is a very cool lounge area downstairs; the restaurant proper is up a long, dramatic staircase.  The dining room is sleek but warm; the fabrics chosen keep the space from feeling sterile, and floor-to-ceiling windows offer a view of Post Oak and the buildings across the street.

Upon being seated, we were faced with something a bit playful and a bit peculiar.  Paper placemats with clever quotations... from Chef Philippe Schmit.

We perused the brand-new lunch menu, and our first reaction was that it wasn't terribly French.  Salads, pizzas, sandwiches, seafood, pasta, and meats were all represented.  We zeroed in on their bacon cheeseburger, served on a house-made brioche bun.  Ordering it medium rare wasn't a problem.  We also wanted to sample a salad, and the Texas caesar, with BBQ-brushed skirt steak was a tempting, if non-French, choice.

The burger was a thick hand-formed patty, served on the aforementioned brioche bun, which had been griddled perhaps a touch too enthusiastically.  It was smothered in melted and re-congealed cheese, then crowned with some nicely peppered, thick-cut bacon.  It was dressed with thinly-sliced housemade pickles and butter lettuce.

There is much to like here - good quality beef, a deft touch with the seasonings, and a nice, dense housemade bun.  The patty was medium-rare, as requested.

But there were some missteps.  The beef, while tasty, was perhaps too high of grade; it was only minimally oozy, which is rare (no pun intended) in a medium-rare burger.  And the cheese was obviously melted at one point, but had congealed into a firm blanket by the time the burger reached our table.  Regardless of the missteps, this was a solid burger; tasty and featuring top quality ingredients.  We can't expect perfection out of a brand-new kitchen, and we expect it to become even better over time.

Next up was the salad, and it really grabbed our attention.  It was served on one of the longest plates we've ever seen; it literally spanned beyond my shoulders, and the salad was artfully arranged upon it.

The bits of romaine lettuce were drizzled with the mild caesar dressing, as were the croutons, tomatos, and bits of what we found out to be grilled cactus.  Our take on this dish was that it was lovely, but not particularly flavorful.  The extremely tender skirt steak tasted as if it had been grilled, not barbecued, and the expected smokiness was nowhere to be found.  The caesar dressing was also mild, and we admit to being perplexed by the inclusion of tomatoes on a caesar salad.  To be clear, it was a very tasty salad, just not what we were expecting from the description on the menu.

We saw hints of greatness on the plate at Philippe, and we hope the kitchen hits its stride in the coming months.  Considering the ample talent of the executive chef, we don't expect a long wait.

Philippe Restaurant + Bar, 1800 Post Oak Blvd, 713-439-1000.  
philippehouston.com

Philippe Restaurant and Lounge on Urbanspoon

The Woodlands quickly becoming a full-fledged city, its residents not needing to leave the area when they want to shop or dine. But the savvy diner will notice one distressing fact: Most of the restaurants in The Woodlands are part of a chain that's based elsewhere.

Fortunately, that's starting to change. Now there's a new kid on the independent pizzeria block: Crust Pizza Co.

Crust Pizza Co. is an upscale, family-oriented pizza parlor located in the Panther Creek Village Center, on The Woodlands Parkway at West Panther Creek. It's a true independent — the owners, Mark Rasberry and Clint Price, are on-site and deeply involved. Price is a resident of The Woodlands, and Rasberry is currently making a weekly commute from Dallas — he'll be relocating after the school year ends.

They decided to open their pizza concept in The Woodlands, citing the family-friendly environment as a key reason for Crust Pizza debuting outside both the Loop and the Beltway.

Jamaican Jerk Chicken Pizza at Crust Pizza Co.

The strip-center location has been converted into a warm, inviting spot for lunch or dinner. Custom is the operative word here — custom banquettes, custom countertops, and beautiful custom lighting with exposed copper supports.

The warmth extends to the new staff — a bunch of fresh faces, many of whom have never worked in the restaurant business before. Price and Rasberry are training them to be professional as well as friendly, and from our first impression, we received a tremendous amount of enthusiasm and a growing degree of polish.

The warm, inviting dining room at Crust Pizza Co.

The experience, however, is behind the counter. Crust's pizzas are hand-built by a pizza chef who was brought in from New York, and his East Coast sensibilities are baked right into his work.

Each pizza features a handmade thin, crispy crust with house-made sauce. The fresh toppings range from the traditional pepperoni and sausage to the exotic, like cashews and muffaletta-style olive relish.

Preparing a pizza at Crust Pizza Co.

"So how's the pizza?" you ask.

I'm typically a pizza traditionalist, so I started by sampling a margherita pizza. The crust was light and crisp but not hard, and its faintly sweet flavor was a solid base for the savory roma tomatoes, mozzarella, and fresh chopped basil.

The crushed garlic added a bit of swagger, and the result was both fresh and bold. (Bold is a recurring theme at Crust Pizza Co., and one that is a welcome change from the often bland offerings at chain restaurants.)

Margherita Pizza at Crust Pizza Co.

Next was a walk on the wild side. We tried The Jerk, featuring Jamaican jerk chicken, caramelized onions, red, green, and yellow bell peppers, thick-cut bacon and a mixture of cheeses.

This was, again, a bold pizza, the jerk chicken's spicy bite offset by the sourness of the bell peppers and the smoky undertones of the nice quality bacon. I didn't expect to like this pizza (I'm not a big bell pepper fan) but it turned out to be my favorite.

We also sampled their sandwiches, including a memorable Spicy Link sub, with hot Italian link sausage, a variety of peppers, caramelized onions, and a blend of cheeses over the housemade pizza sauce.

Spicy Link Sausage Sandwich at Crust Pizza Co.

Not to be trite, but this, too, was a bold piece of food art. The Italian links were nicely spicy, and the peppers' gentle sourness made for a very savory combination.

We were impressed by the food coming out of this new kitchen, and feel that it's only fair to overlook any pre-opening jitters, which were few and far between. Rasberry and Price are pros, and they've brought their distinct style of upscale, high-quality pizzas to the central Woodlands. And they're doing so at very reasonable prices.

The verdict? We'll be back.

Crust Pizza Co. - 4775 West Panther Creek Dr. - The Woodlands 77381 - 281-298-8844

(This entry first appeared on CultureMap.)

Crust Pizza Co. on Urbanspoon

We were recently out in Tomball and looking for something comfortable for dinner, and we weren't in the mood for Goodson's.  A quick scan through Yelp brought us to Gianna Italian Kitchen.

What a great neighborhood place.  Warm, inviting environment, even though it's nestled in a strip center.  Very friendly staff.  The kind of place where you're a regular on your second visit.

And there's excellent Italian food - nothing trendy, but the type of Italian-American cuisine that comes to mind when most folks think of Italian.  A superb Caesar salad, with a spicy dressing made with actual anchovies.  Delicious pastas, and a deft hand on the grill with meats.

Something we love:  Many of the dishes are available in either a full or an appetizer portion.  This lets kids (or those who aren't too hungry) dig deeper in the menu while not being stuck with a huge portion they won't finish.  More restaurants should consider doing this.

Gianna is exactly the type of Italian restaurant we'd love to have in the Woodlands.  But we'll be driving to Tomball regularly to enjoy it.

(Apologies for the lack of photos - it was dim in the restaurant, and none came out.)

Gianna Italian Kitchen - 28301 Hwy 249 - Tomball, Texas 77375
281-290-6676 - giannaitaliankitchen.com

Gianna Italian Kitchen on Urbanspoon

Chuy's may be the most misunderstood Tex-Mex place in Houston.  Some folks love 'em, and some folks hate 'em, and there's very little middle ground.  Rarely do we see such polarization in how patrons react to a restaurant.

Why?  It's hard to tell for sure, but we think it's a combination of food that's a little out of the ordinary, and an atmosphere that's not typical for Houston.  Chuy's is one of the handful of restaurants that we consider to be a little bit of Austin in Houston, and the Austin attitude permeates everything that Chuy's does.

We're firmly in the camp that loves Chuy's.  The Austin-based chain opened its first location in 1982, and we've been eating there ever since.  Chuy's version of Tex-Mex is focused a few hundred miles to the west - there's a strong New Mexico influence, with plenty of dishes featuring green chiles.  Their annual Hatch chile festival features peppers grown by one particular farm in Hatch, New Mexico.

Our go-to dish at Chuy's hasn't changed in 20 years.  It's the Chuy's Special, a unique flat enchilada dish made with housemade blue corn tortillas, roasted chicken, white cheese, and Chuy's tomatillo sauce.  It's flavorful without overpowering heat, and has long been one of our benchmark enchilada dishes.

Chuy's Special

But as any fan will tell you, the appeal at Chuy's is more than the food.  Ever since the original Barton Springs location opened, the Chuy's experience has been shaped by the zany decor and the often offbeat but dependably friendly staff.


The Chuy's located across from the Woodlands delivers both in spades.  Our favorite room there is the bright, airy bar, complete with a thatched roof, some delightfully kitchy chandeliers, and an airborn school of wooden fish.  It's a throwback to an older school of restaurant design where the space was more than one big room with some theme-appropriate artwork on the walls.  Another thing we love about Chuy's is that as they open more locations, they don't just replicate their design.  Each Chuy's has its own feel and becomes a part of its neighborhood.

The final part of the Chuy's equation is their quirky, friendly staff.  The vibe of the original Austin location comes through in the attitudes of the servers, but Chuy's has figured out a way to make sure that this doesn't result in the cool-but-lackadaisical service that's all too often found in the River City.

On our last visit to Chuy's, we ran across a particular server who went so far above and beyond what we expect in a family restaurant that she deserves notice.  Anjelia Richmond, who's known at Chuy's as "Cookie", was perhaps the warmest, friendliest service person that we encountered all year.  Yes, we were in a restaurant, but we were treated as if we were in Cookie's home.  And Cookie was going to make sure that we felt welcome.

My bride was recovering from foot surgery, and Cookie took it upon herself to make sure that we were comfortable, well fed, and never lacking anything.  Our ramekin of the essential Creamy Jalepeno dip was never empty.  Cookie even positioned the chairs so my bride could elevate her foot, and offered to bring an extra cushion.  Her ready smile and hearty laugh were heartwarming, and her positive attitude was infectious.  We really didn't have a choice but to hug her on the way out.  
Cookie impressed us so much that before our next visit, we called ahead to see if she was working, fully planning to arrage our visit around her schedule..  We've never done that before at a restaurant.

So thank you, Cookie, for taking such great care of us, and for making us feel more like friends than like guests.  Have a Merry Christmas, sweet lady.  We'll see you soon.

Chuy's - 18035 IH-45 S - Shenandoah, TX 77385 - 936-321-4440 - Chuys.com

Chuy's (Shenandoah) on Urbanspoon

We're big fans of the food of New Orleans.  Whether it's the upscale Creole cuisine served at the fine restaurants around the Crescent City, or the down-home Cajun food found at hole-in-the-wall kitchens all over Louisiana, we love the cuisine of our neighbor to the East.

The only problem is that it can be tough to find... especially as you get farther outside the Loop.

So you can imagine our interest when we received a tip from a reader about a new restaurant opening on Market Street.  Called Schilleci's New Orleans Kitchen, it's a family-run restaurant located on Market Street in the shadow of the Avia Hotel.

Wait a minute.  Family run?  On Market Street?  The place where the new Tiffany's just opened, and Tommy Bahama's is inexplicably busy all the time?

It's true.  The Schilleci family has opened this intimate, elegant French Quarter-style restaurant on Market Street.  The family had operated a small carry-out cajun cafe in Spring, but when their lease ran out, they decided to head north to the Woodlands to open a full-service restaurant.  Market Street is truly becoming the culinary capital of Montgomery County.


The restaurant is strategically located by both the Avia Hotel and the parking garage.  So unlike just about every other restaurant on Market Street, parking should be plentiful and nearby.

We visited Schilleci's for a late lunch on their first day in business, and met most of the family.  Wayne Schilleci, Sr is the patriarch of the family; he and his wife Debbie were overseeing the bright, airy dining room from a strategic location in the corner.  Wayne Sr was also talking with every customer, soliciting feedback and displaying the type of humility that's rare in the restaurant business.  Their son Zach was overseeing the front of the house, welcoming each guest and coordinating the operation of the very new waitstaff.  Wayne Jr is the chef, and was putting his kitchen staff through their paces - in this brand-new restaurant, many of the cooks had never worked together before, and had to learn to coordinate their efforts.

The Schilleci Family: Debbie, Wayne Sr, Zachary, Wendy, Wayne Jr

But how is the food?  We know it's not fair to pass judgement on a restaurant's cuisine on its first day, but we want to pass along our initial impressions.  We sampled a couple of New Orleans classics:  Jambalaya and Seafood Gumbo.

First, the Jambalaya.  Our cup was overflowing with chunks of soulful, coarse-grained Andouille sausage and thick slices of spicy Italian sausage.  Completing the dish was some beautiful saffron-colored rice, seasoned with peppers, onions, and a hint of celery.  The heat level was moderate, starting deceptively slowly and building up to a nice controlled burn.  The heat was masterfully balanced with the savory flavors in the dish, something that's all to rare in Cajun cooking.

Next up was the gumbo.  We sampled Schilleci's seafood gumbo, a sharp, spicy roux packed with plenty of nicely-sized gulf shrimp and lump crabmeat.  The roux had a simmering, balanced heat, and the onion, pepper, and okra flavors melded to create an exceptional background for the fresh seafood.

We love gumbo, and Schilleci's may be the best gumbo we've had in Texas.  We were particularly impressed that we didn't have to kick up the roux with a few drops of Tabasco - Chef Wayne is not afraid to season his gumbo, and deftly walked the line between too bland and too hot.

Wayne Schilleci Jr and Zach Schilleci

Schilleci's didn't feel like a restaurant that had just opened.  The staff was knowledgeable and friendly, the food was very well prepared, and the cozy interior was beautifully finished - the dove grey walls were adorned with  photos of New Orleans taken by another family member.  Considered touches were all around; even the ceiling was tiled with ornate squares that evoked the feeling of a hundred-year-old establishment in the Quarter.  And the Schilleci brothers seem to naturally fall into the two key roles needed for a successful restaurant - a talented chef in the back of the house, and a gracious host who's working the room and keeping the patrons happy.

We predict that Schilleci's will be a big success; it's a totally different dining option for Woodlands residents, and the restaurant is overflowing with the type of warmth that only comes from a family-run establishment.

Schilleci's New Orleans Kitchen - 9595 Six Pines Drive Suite 120
281-419-4242 - www.Schillecis.com

Schilleci's New Orleans Kitchen on Urbanspoon

It's an exciting time to live in the Woodlands.  Every month brings two or three interesting new places to eat.  However, as a burger lover, 2010 has been more down than up - we still lament the closing of Tesar's, home of one of the best burgers that we've ever had the pleasure of enjoying.  We've sampled some very good burgers out here, but none have yet climbed that lofty perch that is left vacant by the closing of Tesar's.

But we keep looking.

Ever since we inadvertently crashed the grand opening party, we've been big fans of Hubbell & Hudson.  Their flagship Waterway location is a gourmet grocery store, and upscale bistro, and a highly-regarded cooking school - a combination that warms the heart of any food lover.  We were excited to hear that they were planning a second location - where would it be?  Downtown Houston?  The Galleria?

Hubbell & Hudson Kitchen

It turns out that H & H's second location was to be right here in the Woodlands, across on Research Blvd just east of Gosling.  Called Hubbel & Hudson Kitchen, it's a tightly edited version of the original concept.  The expansive gourmet market has been focused on the gourmet items you might want to pick up on your way home from work, and the bistro has been pared back into a counter-service fast-casual concept.

What you see as you walk in

We were very impressed by the concept, and how well it should fit into the modern busy lifestyle.  Stopping in on the way home is much more convenient than pulling into HEB's Woodlands Market (or Hubbell & Hudson on the Waterway), yet you still have a store full of high quality items from which to shop.

The market area has a carefully edited selection of high-quality meats, fresh vegetables, cheeses, beer and wine, dry goods, sauces, snacks, and even kitchen tools.  If you're heading out for a picnic, this may be the perfect quick stop.

Grocery aisles at the back of the store

So is it safe to conclude that Hubbell & Hudson has created an upscale convenience store for the gourmet shopper?  Yes, but that's only part of the draw.

Dining is the second part of the H & H Kitchen equation.  Along the right side of the store is the meat counter, and at the end of it is the order point for the fast casual restaurant.  The menu should look familiar to those who have visited Hubbell & Hudson, although it's been slightly streamlined.  The selection of sandwiches and design-your-own steaks are still there, as are the reason we're visiting - the variety of burgers.

Our first burger was the Bistro Burger.  It's 10 ounces of house-ground sirloin, topped with white cheddar cheese, thick-cut peppered bacon, finely shredded lettuce, crunchy dill pickle slices and and grilled onions.  It's served on a soft housemade bun, with a side of fries.

I enjoyed this burger.  The over-half-pound patty was cooked slightly on the well side of medium, but there was still a bit of ooze going on.  The smooth, mild cheese was complemented by the peppery bacon flavor, and the pickles added a nice crunch.  This burger clearly reflects its quality ingredients, and I'd order it again.  But I wasn't blown away.

There was one small problem - the side of fries were nowhere to be seen.  When I picked up the burger, the counterman said that he'd bring them out when they were ready.  But after five minutes, they hadn't appeared.  I didn't want the burger to get cold, so I ate it anyway.  On the way out I asked the guy at the counter if they'd forgotten about our fries, and he apologized and asked if I wanted them to go.  The idea of re-warming fries at home isn't appealing to me, so I passed.

At this point I was a bit disappointed with my experience here; the burger was good, but not great, and the mix-up on the fries was a blemish on what seemed to be a very smooth operation.

Apparently my search for the next great burger would continue elsewhere.  Oh, the sacrifices I make for you guys.

On the way out the door, their greeter, a charming woman named Miriam, asked me if I had enjoyed my visit.  I told her about the missing fries, and she asked me to wait while she got the manager.

Ricardo, the manager on duty, apologized profusely for their mistake, and insisted on refunding the entire cost of my meal, asking that I give them another try.  (I hadn't identified myself at this point, so I assume that any customer would get the same treatment.)  I told him I was impressed by how he handled the situation, and that I looked forward to giving them another chance.

The opportunity came sooner rather than later.

My bride and I were in need of a quick bite the next day, so we decided to return.  The place was hopping, and we ordered and were lucky to snare a table.  In short order our food arrived.  This time I tried a different burger, the bleu cheese burger.  Eight ounces of chopped sirloin topped with melted bleu cheese, baby spinach in place of lettuce, and sauteed onions.  I splurged an extra dollar to substitute their Parmesan truffle fries for the regular french fries.  I also asked for it to be cooked medium rare.

What came out looked gorgeous - the thick, hand-formed patty had an aggressive char, and the bleu cheese had been melted and slightly carmelized.  The sauteed onions were totally different than the grilled onions on my previous burger, and the baby spinach was an interesting idea that I was anxious to sample.

I assembled the burger, and bit into it.  Wow.  This was a whole 'nother level.  The confident beefy swagger was front and center; not surprising, since the cooked patty was about an inch thick.  The tang of the bleu cheese and the bite of the sauteed onions sang a sharp yet controlled acidic tone that paired perfectly with the earthiness of the beef.  The housemade bun was slightly sweet, and was a solid foundation for this superlative burger.  The gorgeous patty was indeed cooked medium rare, and the center was warm, pink, and oozing with enough juices that made me go through three napkins before I was done.

Bingo.  My new favorite burger in the Woodlands.  By a longshot.  Even more amazing is the price: $8 with fries.  That's a steal for this sort of high-quality burger; a steakhouse could sell this for double the price and still be offering a good value.

Ever since the demise of Tesar's, I lamented the fact that there wasn't a burger out here that I truly craved, and could rank among the very top in Houston.  But Hubbell & Hudson has produced a superlative product that stands with Hubcap Grill, Beaver's, and Samba as the very best burgers to be had in Houston.

If you love burgers, you've gotta check them out.

Hubbell & Hudson Kitchen - 4526 Research Forest - The Woodlands - 281-203-5650

Hubbell & Hudson Kitchen on Urbanspoon

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