I maintain that the best BBQ is found in little ramshackle shacks located in small towns off the beaten path in Nowhere County, Texas. So why do I like the County Line?
They do a good job at pretty much everything. Inviting, faux-camp decor. Friendly, professional waitstaff. And BBQ that’s plenty good, and better than pretty much any other chain that I can name.
I started at County Line when I lived in Austin, and frequented both locations. The concept has made the trip down Hwy 290 with its goodness intact.
What to order? My favorite here are the baby back pork ribs. A full rack is large; a half rack is plenty for most folks. In either case you get some tender (but not falling-off-the-bone) meaty pork ribs, nicely prepared and doused with a sweet-but-not-too-sweet sauce. Beef lovers will be thrilled with their gigantic beef ribs, served with a sauce that’s not quite as sweet, and the brisket is very good too.
Bread is another high point here. Why pay for bread in a BBQ joint? Because it’s homemade and superb, fluffy and sweet and when topped with the provided honey butter it’s a decadent addition to the carnivorous offerings on the table.
What’s not to like? It’s a bit more expensive than some places, but the prices aren’t out of line for a sit-down meal; this one just happens to consist of very good BBQ.
County Line is a great choice for those who love great BBQ, especially if our town’s more elemental BBQ joints are a bit too edgy for them.
The County Line: 13850 Cutten Rd, Houston, 77069, 281-537-2454