A few days ago my phone rang. Caller unknown. I answered. “Lake Conroe. I know a guy out there. He makes great hero. Like in the old neighborhood” the caller said, in an unmistakable Brooklyn accent. Then he hung up. Could this lead be worth following up?
I’ve always been a fan of what I think of as Houston-style po boy sandwiches. A long, slightly crusty baguette filled with Italian meats, cheeses, and some sort of spread. The iconic version was created by Antone’s, the late, lamented Houston chain of imported food shops. But Antone’s sold out a long time ago; the family-owned locations now a memory, and the remaining franchised stores a sad shadow of what the original locations used to be. Worthy competitors like Andros’ are gone, too. And while I enjoy the Louisiana-style seafood or roast beef po boys, they’re a totally different sandwich.
A sunny Saturday morning found us cruising out to Highway 105, in the convertible with the top down, in search of this elusive deli. Almost to Montgomery, across from the entrance to April Sound in a small strip center, we noticed a sign that resembled the Italian flag. A quick left turn brought us to the parking lot for Tony’s Deli, a charming little delicatessen that looks like it might belong on a side street in Brooklyn.
Stepping inside, we were immediately impressed by the busy yet cozy feel of the deli. Items were piled up, fresh food was on the counter for sale, and meats and cheeses were proudly displayed in the refrigerated case.
Craving a traditional Italian po boy, we browsed the menu. Sandwiches are named after prominent Italian-Americans: Sinatra, Pacino, Deniro, Danza, and many others were in attendance. We zeroed in on the Stallone, featuring capocolla, salami, ham, provolone and house made pesto. After a quick wait, it appeared.
This sandwich is substantial. Approximately a foot long, and stuffed with generous portions of the meats, cheeses, and veggies selected, slathered with a schmear of tart pesto. Biting into it was like a quick trip to NYC; the bread was chewy but not tough, and the meats had a bright, fresh flavor. (We later learned that Tony’s uses Dietz & Watson meats exclusively, a decision we applaud.)
This, my friends, is a taste of Brooklyn in Montgomery county. A New York City Italian-style po boy from a small shop west of Conroe near the lake. How is this possible?
The answer is Tony Nicoletta, the transplanted New Yorker who could be straight from central casting for a Sopranos episode. But Nicoletta’s business dealings are far more aboveboard. Born in Brooklyn, this ex-Marine attended culinary school in Hyde Park, and has owned a number of restaurants in the New York area. His years of experience are obvious in the food he hand crafts; this isn’t a sandwich thrown together by a teenaged “sandwich artist” – it is the work of a chef whose chosen palette is the Italian po boy.
Tony Nicoletta is the real deal, and his sandwiches are both authentic and outstanding. We’ve often bemoaned the lack of good food near Lake Conroe, but we’re happy to report that our new favorite Italian sandwich shop is open for business. Think you’re gonna find a better Italian po boy anywhere near here?
As Tony would say, “Fuggedaboutit.”
Yes sir. We’ll be back. Often.
Tony’s Deli | 16283 Texas 105 | Montgomery, Texas | 507-743-0535