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Chuy's may be the most misunderstood Tex-Mex place in Houston. Some folks love 'em, and some folks hate 'em, and there's very little middle ground. Rarely do we see such polarization in how patrons react to a restaurant.

Why? It's hard to tell for sure, but we think it's a combination of food that's a little out of the ordinary, and an atmosphere that's not typical for Houston. Chuy's is one of the handful of restaurants that we consider to be a little bit of Austin in Houston, and the Austin attitude permeates everything that Chuy's does.

We're firmly in the camp that loves Chuy's. The Austin-based chain opened its first location in 1982, and we've been eating there ever since. Chuy's version of Tex-Mex is focused a few hundred miles to the west - there's a strong New Mexico influence, with plenty of dishes featuring green chiles. Their annual Hatch chile festival features peppers grown by one particular farm in Hatch, New Mexico.

Our go-to dish at Chuy's hasn't changed in 20 years. It's the Chuy's Special, a unique flat enchilada dish made with housemade blue corn tortillas, roasted chicken, white cheese, and Chuy's tomatillo sauce. It's flavorful without overpowering heat, and has long been one of our benchmark enchilada dishes.

Chuy's Special

But as any fan will tell you, the appeal at Chuy's is more than the food. Ever since the original Barton Springs location opened, the Chuy's experience has been shaped by the zany decor and the often offbeat but dependably friendly staff.

The Chuy's located across from the Woodlands delivers both in spades. Our favorite room there is the bright, airy bar, complete with a thatched roof, some delightfully kitchy chandeliers, and an airborn school of wooden fish. It's a throwback to an older school of restaurant design where the space was more than one big room with some theme-appropriate artwork on the walls. Another thing we love about Chuy's is that as they open more locations, they don't just replicate their design. Each Chuy's has its own feel and becomes a part of its neighborhood.

The final part of the Chuy's equation is their quirky, friendly staff. The vibe of the original Austin location comes through in the attitudes of the servers, but Chuy's has figured out a way to make sure that this doesn't result in the cool-but-lackadaisical service that's all too often found in the River City.

On our last visit to Chuy's, we ran across a particular server who went so far above and beyond what we expect in a family restaurant that she deserves notice. Anjelia Richmond, who's known at Chuy's as "Cookie", was perhaps the warmest, friendliest service person that we encountered all year. Yes, we were in a restaurant, but we were treated as if we were in Cookie's home. And Cookie was going to make sure that we felt welcome.

My bride was recovering from foot surgery, and Cookie took it upon herself to make sure that we were comfortable, well fed, and never lacking anything. Our ramekin of the essential Creamy Jalepeno dip was never empty. Cookie even positioned the chairs so my bride could elevate her foot, and offered to bring an extra cushion. Her ready smile and hearty laugh were heartwarming, and her positive attitude was infectious. We really didn't have a choice but to hug her on the way out.

Cookie impressed us so much that before our next visit, we called ahead to see if she was working, fully planning to arrage our visit around her schedule.. We've never done that before at a restaurant.

So thank you, Cookie, for taking such great care of us, and for making us feel more like friends than like guests. Have a Merry Christmas, sweet lady. We'll see you soon.

Chuy's - 18035 IH-45 S - Shenandoah, TX 77385 - 936-321-4440 - Chuys.com

One of the questions we're asked most often is "Where should I eat".

Here is our list of our favorite Tex-Mex restaurants in the Woodlands area. This list is of full service Tex-Mex restaurants that offer a complete menu; taquerias have their own list.

Our Favorites

Alicia's - This local chain excels at its grilled entrees. Our favorite is the Cowboy Steak - a slab of skirt steak, three shrimp, and two very good cheese enchiladas. The energetic bar serves up potent cocktails to thirsty patrons. Alicia's Mexican Grille - 20920 Kuykendahl Rd, Spring TX 77379 - 281-350-8383

Casa Medina - This deceptively low-profile jewel on I-45 impresses discerning foodies with well prepared Tex-Mex classics, solid chips and salsa, and gotta-try-it avocado margaritas, which taste much better than they sound. If Old School Tex-Mex is what you crave, look no further. Casa Medina - 28777 I-45, The Woodlands TX 77381 - 281-298-9866

Guadalajara - The upscale, family-friendly dining room is a great place to enjoy out-of-the-ordinary dishes. Excellent ceviches and outstanding roast chicken enchiladas highlight the diverse menu. Guadalajara Hacienda - 27885 I-45 N, The Woodlands TX 77386 - 281-362-0774

Also Recommended

Chuy's - Locals flock to this Austin Icon for reliable Tex-Mex and strong margaritas. Skip the fajitas and go directly to the more unique options, like the Chuychanga and huge combination plates. Insiders know to ask for the complimentary creamy jalepeño dip with the chips and salsa... it's addictive. Chuy's - 18035 W I-45, Shenandoah TX 77385 - 936-321-4440

Lupe Tortilla - Fajitas are the entree of choice at this local chain. The lime marinade's signature flavor keeps regulars coming back, but creeping prices are causing some rumbles on social media. Bring your gold card. Lupe Tortilla - 19437 W I-45, Shenandoah TX 77385 - 281-298-5274

Update: An eagle-eyed reader discovered that the City of Houston Health Department wasn't too pleased with what they found on their last visit to Torchy's, either.
City of Houston Health Department

When a foodie thinks about Austin, what often comes to mind is a quirky, casual spot that serves good food in a somewhat offbeat setting. Ever since Austin was just a college town and a hippie hangout, it's had its own sensibility that is slightly out of step with the rest of Texas. In a good way, of course.

As Austin grew to become a high-tech (and hipster) mecca, the quirky Austin vibe went somewhat upscale, with the rough edges polished off. Some of these interesting concepts make the trip down 290 to the Houston area, where we now have outposts of some of Austin's favorite establishments, like the highly popular Chuy's or the superlative Uchi.

One of the latest restaurants to migrate from Austin is Torchy's Tacos. Founded in a food truck and based in the salt-of-the-earth South First Street area, Torchy's has been serving up creative tacos to rave reviews all over Austin. It's as if the humble Tex-Mex staple has been reinvented and elevated to a new level, one that apparently every Austinite craves. Foodie friends were swooning of the appearance of Torchy's in Houston, giving us grief for not having checked it out.

So how will Torchy's be received in Houston, a town known for its hundreds of family-run taquerias? We went to find out.

Torchy's is located on South Shepherd Drive, a stone's throw away from both the tony River Oaks shopping strip and Westheimer. This is an area quite a bit less funky that South First Street in Austin, but that hasn't stopped Torchy's from bringing in the crowds. It isn't unusual to see lines snaking out the door, and on our off-peak mid afternoon visit, we waited for a table after ordering at the counter.

Dining room at Torchy's Tacos

The crowd trended young, hip, and noisy. Torchy's dining room is bare to the point of austerity, and in its usual full state, quiet table conversation is a challenge. The setting doesn't invite lingering, which meant that tables turned fast enough so we didn't have a lengthy wait. This was good, because right after we snared a table, our food came out.

We had followed the suggestion of the friendly Torchy's staff member at the counter, and picked a handful of their most popular selections.

First up was the Green Chile Pork taco. The closest we found to a traditional taqueria taco, it featured slow-roasted carnitas, cilantro, onions, and some crumbly queso fresco. Curiously, the promised wedge of lime was absent. Astonishingly, the tortilla was clearly out of a package. Store-bought tortillas are a huge strike against any taco joint. They simply don't compare to the hot, soft, fresh tortillas 45 seconds off the comal that can be found at small, family run taquerias dotting every corner in Houston. And at Taco Cabana, too.

Green Chile Pork taco at Torchy's

Our first surprise was the relatively small size of the tortilla, which was generously overflowing with fillings. The second surprise was the tremendous amount of cilantro - no folks, that's not lettuce in the photo. Biting into the taco confirmed the over-abundance of cilantro, not surprisingly. When we raked off 3/4 of it, we were left with a fairly bland taco; the mild pork flavor was lost beneath the onions and the remainder of the cilantro. We can think of a number of taquerias around town that put this semi-traditional taco to shame. On to the next one.

For many folks, Tex-Mex means fajitas, so next up was Torchy's Beef Fajita taco. The ingredients are right out of Tex Mex 101: Marinated, grilled skirt steak, grilled onions and peppers, shredded cheese and pico de gallo.

Beef Fajita tacos at Torchy's

Biting into this taco, we were impressed by the tender quality of the fajita beef, but we found ourselves wishing for a bolder marinade; the beefy flavor was very mild. At the suggestion of staff, we added their avocado hot sauce - a creamy combination of tomatillos, avocados, and roasted jalapenos. This certainly added some heat, but now all we tasted was the sauce. We think the solution is a bolder marinade, not a saucy disguise.

Our final taco was the one we'd repeatedly heard great things about: Torchy's Trailer Park taco. Fried chicken chunks, green chiles, shredded cheese, pico, and lettuce are the standard toppings, and at the advice of a Torchyphile we know, we ordered it "Trashy", with the lettuce removed and a dollop of melted queso on top.

Trailer Park taco at Torchy's

This taco was a hot mess. Good quality fried chicken, but utterly bland pico de gallo and a morass of cheese made me think of a KFC chicken bowl, not Austin's most-talked-about taco. A dab of Torchy's poblano hot sauce helped, but we're firm believers that you shouldn't have to fix a dish by smothering it in sauce to make it good. The result was certainly edible, but it's not something we'd seek out again.

To say we were disappointed with Torchy's would be an understatement. Like many things from Austin, the reality doesn't live up to huge level of hype. On the plus side, the ingredients seemed to be high quality, but on the minus, Torchy's can't be bothered making fresh tortillas. The individual tacos look good on paper, but spotty execution and weird proportions of ingredients leave you with a taco that just tastes bland. The result is a mediocre experience by Houston taco standards.

That may be good enough in Austin. In a Tex-Mex mecca like Houston, Torchy's is going to have to up their game.

Torchy's Tacos | 2411 South Shepherd Dr. | 713-595-8226 | TorchysTacos.com

Update: Our Summer 2012 Map

Updated Nov 30, 2011

The dining scene in the Woodlands is never still. Restaurants open and close on a regular basis as they try to find the perfect balance of food, service, and atmosphere that will keep notoriously fickle Woodlands patrons coming back.

The Woodlands Market Street (photo credit: The Woodlands Development Co.)

Most suburbs have the reputation of being filled with chain restaurants, and the Woodlands certainly has its share. But the Woodlands has also attracted more than its share of independent restaurants. We don't discriminate - we enjoy good food no matter who owns the kitchen.

Here are the best restaurants in The Woodlands right now (May 2011). In alphabetical order:

The Black Walnut - This locally grown casual cafe has toned down the quirky factor, but it's still like going to a restaurant that's run by your crazy cousin Louie... if Louie could cook. Breakfasts are very good here, as are the unique sandwiches and salads. And be sure to save room for dessert; seasonal gelato offerings are rich and enticing.

Capri - The secret is out about this small, family-run Italian cafe. Barbara Coglianese's kitchen turns out exquisitely handcrafted pastas, and entrees, both featuring sauces made from family recipes brought over from Bologna. An enthusiastic cadre of very happy regulars calls Capri the best Italian spot in the Woodlands, and one of the best in the Houston area. This isn't the Olive Garden; it's more a place for foodies in search of authentic, handmade cuisine than for those wanting overly Americanized versions of Italian classics.

Capri

Chuy's - The Woodlands is home to plenty of UT alums, and when they want Mexican food, they often choose to visit this Austin export. You'll find offbeat wait staff, Mexican food that trends as much toward New Mex-Mex as Tex-Mex, and some of the best margaritas anywhere. Texas Exes will insist on asking for the complimentary creamy jalapeno sauce alongside the light, citrusy salsa.

Chuy's in the Woodlands

Crust Pizza - This new locally-run pizza parlor has been garnering great reviews from everyone who's tried it. The owners are on-site, the pizza dough is handmade and never even refrigerated, and the creative toppings give pizza aficionados reason to order outside their comfort zones. We're usually pepperoni traditionalists, but the jerk chicken pizza is something we can't stop ordering. Crust has proven to us that great pizza isn't about a special oven, it's about massaging all the variables until the result speaks for itself.

Jerk chicken pizza at Crust Pizza

Corkscrew BBQ - This new Woodlands food truck is backed by an experienced BBQ team, and the results speak for themselves. Delicious brisket, buzzworthy pulled pork, and perhaps the best cobbler we've tasted in years. Daily specials, too.

Brisket at Corkscrew BBQ

Eden Cafe - Located in Egypt (literally, it's the name of the area just behind the northwest border of the Woodlands) this family-run cafe surprised and impressed us with its well edited menu and daily specials. The talented kitchen turns out excellent work in a variety of cuisines (we're particularly fond of their chicken entrees), but their Cuban dishes stand out among the best in the Houston area.

The Goose's Acre - This pub, located on the Woodlands Waterway, features a beautiful deck perfect for al fresco dining on the water. The kitchen turns out considerably better-than-average pub food; can't miss items include the half-pound burgers, creative salads, and well executed pub favorites. A spirited weekend crowd keeps the parting going.

Grimaldi's - The second Houston-area outpost of this iconic Brooklyn pizzaria calls the Woodlands Waterway its home, and locals are raving about the coal-fired NY-style pizzas. We're fans of the savory Italian sausage, rich with fennel.

New York-style pizza at Grimaldi's

Hubbell & Hudson Bistro - This upscale American bistro is attached to the Woodlands' largest gourmet market, guaranteeing access to some amazing ingredients. And Executive Chef Austin Simmons makes the best of them, turning out impressive seafood dishes, entree salads, and a variety of design-your-own steak dishes designed to please the pickiest Texan. He's even added an epic Wagyu Burger to the menu, and it blew us away.

Wagyu Burger at Hubbell & Hudson

Hubble & Hudson Kitchen - The more casual cousin to Hubble & Hudson has been packing them in since the day they opened. Patrons wait in line to order superb burgers and outstanding sandwiches, and the brunch offerings on weekends are among the best in the Houston area. Thank goodness for the outdoor patio, because the dining room can be packed during peak hours. Hubble & Hudson Kitchen combines perhaps the best fast casual concept we've experienced with a small gourmet market, giving home cooks the perfect place to stop for ingredients, inspiration, and a delicious quick meal.

Burger at Hubble & Hudson Kitchen

Jasper's - Upscale backyard cuisine is how this Dallas export describes its fare, and we think that fits it to a T. This is Texas cuisine as imagined by Kent Rathbun, an Iron Chef contestant who's known for his innovative takes on hearty food. Great bets include the prime steaks, excellent pork loin, and half-pound burgers. We're always impressed with the care that goes into the excellent side dishes, and their desserts are some of the best in the Woodlands. But you simply cannot miss the housemade potato chips with Maytag bleu cheese. Addictive.

Maytag bleu cheese-topped potato chips at Jasper's

The Olive Oil - Suburbs aren't know for their ethnic food, so we were pleasantly surprised to find an excellent Greek restaurant in a nondescript strip center location along Sawdust road. All the Greek standards are well represented on the menu; the gyro is one of the best we've enjoyed anywhere. The restaurant turns into a party on weekend evenings, with belly dancers, Greek dancers, and live music, so be sure to make a reservation to guarantee a table with a view of the festivities.

Perry's Steakhouse - There are plenty of steakhouses in the Woodlands, but Perry's stands apart for three reasons. First, it's located away from the "downtown" area, making parking a breeze. Second, it's a local business, albeit one with several locations. And most importantly, the grilled meats are very satisfying, and handled with an expert touch. Those in the know go for the absurdly thick pork chop, which is perfectly prepared and rubbed with seasonings that really bring out the flavor.

Rico's - Tex-Mex in the Woodlands is popular, and it seems that every second Tex-Mex place is now a Rico's. This local empire has been growing rapidly thanks to its deft handling of traditional Tex-Mex favorites. The fajitas are very good and offered with some tasty embellishments (melted oxaca cheese and chunky bacon are our pick) and the margaritas are strong and tasty.

Schilleci's - The Houston area has become the home to many New Orleans expatriates, and the Woodlands is lucky to be the new home of the Schilleci family's eponymous restaurant. This New Orleans-style restaurant serves up outstanding etoufee and gumbo, and the authentic po boys are as good as you'll find outside of the Crescent City. The secret? The Schillecis import bread from New Orleans for that authentic chewy crunch.

Schilleci's New Orleans Kitchen

There you have it. Our favorite places to eat in the Woodlands. If we've missed yours, tell us about it in the comments.

The Woodlands area is not lacking for choices when you're in the mood for Tex-Mex. From Chuy's to Los Cucos to the Rico's empire, there's a Tex-Mex spot on just about any corner.

So you can imagine my indifference when I learned that the large restaurant being built at the intersection of 2920 and Kuykendahl was going to be another Tex-Mex spot. I enjoy the cuisine, but feel that the area would be better served by just about any other type of restaurant.

Nevertheless, a recent weekend found us shopping at Lowe's (across the big parking lot) and hungry. Alicia's building was inviting, so we walked over and entered.

We were immediately impressed by the beautiful setting and attractive decor. The proprietor had clearly invested some money in his new establishment, and the result was impressive. Dining areas were in different rooms (we tire of the single, huge cavern that seems to be popular with many restaurant designers) and an inviting bar was off to the side.

One of the dining rooms at Alicias (Unused at the time)

We were led to our table, and fresh housemade chips and salsa were quickly brought. Chips and salsa are one's first impression of a Tex-Mex spot's cuisine, and we think they're very important. Alicia's did not disappoint - the chips were thin and crisp, glowing with a thin sheen of oil that didn't result in a heavy taste. The salsa was light, fresh, and had the bite of citrus, an excellent choice for a hot Texas summer.

Perusing the menu, we saw all the traditional Tex-Mex favorites, plus an emphasis on grilled meats. My eye was drawn to one of their combinations. Called simply "Cowboy Steak", it featured a 6 oz. black Angus outside cut of skirt steak, grilled and topped with three chipotle shrimp. A pair of cheese enchiladas, and the de rigueur rice and beans completed the dish.

Cowboy Steak at Alicia's Mexican Grille

What came out was impressive. An aggressively-charred, lime-marianated slab of honest-to-Robb skirt steak, topped with larger-than-expected, perfectly grilled shrimp. The chipotle sauce provided a nice, smoky counterpoint to both the skirt steak and the shrimp, forming a delightful Gulf Coast / Border version of central Texas BBQ. It was a fusion that worked.

Perhaps even more remarkable were the cheese enchiladas. I consider this dish to be another benchmark for measuring a Tex-Mex spot, and Alicia's did not disappoint. Fresh tortillas rolled around melted, oozing yellow cheese, topped with a very nice housemade chili gravy. None of the mystery red sauce that some places substitute... a revelation. These may be the best cheese enchiladas in the Houston area.

We're looking forward to returning to Alicia's in the very near future. But it's going to be tough to order anything else on the menu.

Update: Wahoo has closed.

On the monthly visit to Sam's Club, we noticed a new eatery in the Portofino shopping center, across the freeway from the Woodlands. Called Wahoo's Fish Tacos, it's a West Coast (in this case, California and Colorado) fast casual chain offering a variety of Cali-Mex dishes in a faux surf-shack setting.

More than anything, it reminded me of Chuy's Hula Hut in Austin after being run through the corporate concept machine.

But how about the food?

We decided to sample the fish tacos, which is their signature dish. The very personable counter guy took our order, and withing five minutes this came out:

That is a lot of salsa (which in this case means marinated tomatos) and shredded cabbage. We're pretty sure there's fish under there somewhere.

Biting into it revealed that there is, in fact, fish involved. But it was dry, bland, and not terribly flavorful. The suggested creamy cilantro sauce didn't do much to help, either, although it would have been nice on chips (of which none were offered.)

Bottom line: If you're craving a fish taco, skip Wahoo and drive over to Berryhill on Market Street.