The Woodlands is surrounded by small towns and somewhat rural areas, and the influx of people to the area is causing the entire region to develop. A case in point is Umami, a newish Korean restaurant located in Magnolia, which is the town to the immediate northwest of the Woodlands.

Located in a nondescript strip center on Highway 1488, from the street Umami looks like a generically disappointing Chinese buffet. But a tip from a trusted friend (Thanks, Michael) sent us to check out the Korean cuisine offered by this family-run place.
Pulling into the center, we were greeted by a behemoth of a sign, which we later found out was left over from a previous incarnation of the restaurant. It's big, it's brash, and it doesn't bode well for what's inside.
One thing the sign accurately coveys is the size of the restaurant. It's big, taking up the entire building. Heading inside, we walked through a small foyer into the restaurant proper, and were surprised by what we found.

The decidedly upscale interior is warm and inviting, and a total surprise based on the exterior of the restaurant. We were looking forward to see if the food followed this trend. We asked the server what he recommended, and he immediately suggested the bulgogi bento box, a cross-cultural combination of the Korean beef dish juxtaposed into a typical Japanese lunch combination.
What quickly appeared was a nice portion of flavorful, thinly sliced beef, marinated and seasoned gently in the traditional style. The beef was very tender and fresh; this is one of the better versions of bulgogi we've found away from Long Point road. The fried rice had a nice savory bite to it, and the de rigueur California roll was a bit better than expected.
All in all, we were pleasantly surprised by Umami. The ambiance far exceeds the low expectations set by the outside of the establishment, and the very good Korean food will earn it a regular spot on our Asian food rotation.
Umami | 6960 Fm 1488, Magnolia, TX 77354 | (832) 934-2649 | umamigrillandsushi.com

Umami Grill and Sushi on Urbanspoon

As the Woodlands grows, we're excited to watch the food scene grow with it. This little 'burb is attracting all sorts of interesting restaurants, from chef-driven bistros to new concepts from national chains. But some things are still hard to find.

Growing up in Meyerland, I took for granted the ability to find examples of great Asian cuisines nearby. Moving to the Woodlands was a shock; there were plenty of Chinese and Japanese places, and a smattering of Thai and Vietnamese, but very few were out of the ordinary.
A recent conversation with a chef friend of mine directed me to Atsumi, a new Asian restaurant on College Park. My friend spoke very highly of Henry, the chef at Atsumi. Apparently they've become friends and talked shop, and Henry turned him on to some sources for Asian ingredients that turned out to be very high quality, and they traded tips on techniques. Clearly, Henry was someone I had to meet.
So with this recommendation we drove up to Atsumi for dinner. We found a modern, clean strip center restaurant with attractive decor and a good crowd for a weeknight.
I spoke briefly with Henry (who was busy in the kitchen) and learned that he prepares his own sauces in-house, and doesn't use the typical frozen ingredients you find at strip-center Chinese restaurants. I asked for some suggestions, and here's what came out.
First, my bride loves "crab puffs", the traditional appetizers you see at every Americanized Chinese restaurant. We tried Atsumi's, and had the first surprise of the evening.
Instead of the typical cream cheese filling with bits of "crab", we found a light, creamy filling with a bit of heat; Henry had chopped in tiny bits of gently spicy pepper. And in place of the generic orange sauce was a lighter housemade sauce with a bit of citrus tang and a touch of heat. All in all, a very pleasant surprise.
Next up was one of my bride's favorites: Orange chicken. What arrived were large hand-cut chunks of chicken breast meat, hand-breaded with a lightly crispy crust, and served with a rich citrus glaze, accented with plenty of pepper.
Henry suggested one of his specialities - Black Pepper Steak on Sizzling Platter. 
What arrived was superb. Thinly sliced high quality beef, generously spiced with pepper and scallions, served in a rich but not overpowering brown sauce, delivered on a comal to insure that it was sizzling hot. Delicious.
We enjoyed Atsumi, and found Henry's cooking to be far superior to most of the Chinese food we've sampled in the Woodlands. When thanking Henry on the way out, we mentioned that this was some of the best Americanized Chinese cuisine we'd tasted in a while. He smiled and told us to come back - he's got the "real" Chinese menu, as do many of the restaurants way out Bellaire.
We can hardly wait.
Atsumi | 3335 College Park Dr | The Woodlands | 936-242-0044 | atsumiusa.com

Atsumi Asian Kitchen and Sushi Bar on Urbanspoon

It's been over half a year since we updated our listing of our recommended places to eat in the Woodlands, but we've been eating almost every day, searching for the best spots to recommend.  From burgers and Tex-Mex to handmade pastas, fresh seafood and steaks, these are our favorite restaurants in the Woodlands area.  

Some notable finds:

Crab Fritter at Hubbell & Hudson
Cheeseburger with Garlic Fries at Jax Burgers, Fries and Shakes
Lunch special at Kan's Sushi
The Jerk at Crust Pizza
Chopped Beef Sandwich at Corkscrew BBQ
Mixed Grill at The Olive Oil

This time, we're presenting our recommendations here in an embedded Google Map.  What do you think of this format?


View Where to Eat Now in the Woodlands in a larger map

Lately Houston has been the recipient of some notable Austin imports.  On the moderate end, the insanely popular Torchy's Tacos opened their first Houston location to rave reports from diners.  Today we were fortunate enough to take a look at an even more exciting Austin import.

Uchi, the modern Japanese restaurant building a national reputation for its innovative takes on sushi and other Japanese dishes, has opened a Houston outpost.  Located in the old Felix Mexican Restaurant location on inner Westheimer, the team from Uchi has converted a revered house of Tex-Mex into a lovely and serene Japanese dining experience.  How does the innovative cuisine of chef Tyson Cole survive the trip down Highway 290?  We wanted to find out.

We were invited to sample several of their dishes at a recent media dinner, and while this isn't a formal review, we wanted to share our impressions.

Approaching the building, we noticed how the new building doesn't eradicate the old architecture of Felix's, but rather pays homage to it.  The iconic curved windows remain, and their shape is echoed in the striking new entryway.  The result is urban and modern, but with respect for the past, a theme that was echoed throughout the evening.

Entering the restaurant, we were startled at the transformation.  Gone was the Felix experience, and in its place was a stylishly rustic Japanese setting, with clever details everywhere we looked.  One of our favorites was a large communal table, handmade in Austin and lovingly assembled.

With this much attention and respect paid to the setting, we couldn't wait to sample Tyson Cole's food.  Before being served, we browsed the traditional preparation area, and took in the mouth-watering displays of fresh fish and other ingredients, all under the watchful eye of Uchi's kitchen staff.

Watching these masters wield their tako hiki and santoku was like watching surgeons at work.  The speed and precision evident in their work was remarkable.

For this media dinner, small plates were passed by the attentive but unobtrusive staff, who were happy to answer any questions.  Chef Cole circulated from time to time, delivering food himself and anxious to hear feedback from patrons.

First up was a cooked dish - bacon sen.  Consisting of grilled pork belly, green onion, fish caramel, and bonito flakes, the result was a very restrained take on pork belly.  Instead of the often overwhelming richness from this fatty cut of pork, the dish had a solid pork flavor, still rich but balanced by the sweetness of the caramel and the subtle crunch of the bonito flakes.

Next was our first bite of Chef Cole's sushi.  Called machi cure, it begins with smoked baby yellowtail, presented on a small plank of edible yucca crisp, asian pear, marcona almond, and accented with garlic brittle.  This dish was genius.  The essence of the sea brought forth by the impeccably fresh yellowtail was firm without being chewy, and offset by the crunch of the yucca and the subtle snap of the almond.  The flavors danced on the tongue - the rich tuna, the sharp garlic, the tang of the pear, the earthiness of the almond.  The result was spectacular, and speaks to Cole's ability to balance flavor and texture while not compromising on the jewel-like presentation.

Another highlight was the playfully named Jar Jar Duck.  Presented in a lever-sealed Mason jar, opening this clever package released a waft of rosemary-infused smoky duck essence.  Digging into the jar revealed thinly sliced sweet kumquats, pickled endives, thinly sliced bits of roast duck, and crunchy duck cracklins.  Again, the attention to detail is remarkable: The duck is layered so that the milder white meat is below the richer dark meat, so the heavy, flavorful juices marinate the breast meat.  This dish evokes the cleverness of Grant Achatz at his best while leaving behind the fussiness that turns food into performance art.  Again, it's about balance, and Tyson Cole pulls it off masterfully.

We sampled several other dishes that we thoroughly enjoyed, with interesting ingredients like flash-fried kale, toasted milk, and espelette, a mild French pepper not typically associated with Japanese cooking.  This medling of ingredients brings a distinctively modern feel to Cole's Japanese cuisine.  The respect for the past is evident, but the vision is through a distinctively modern lens.  We're excited about Uchi, and we look forward to seeing what other delights Tyson Cole and his talented staff have in store.

(Other views on the event, from Almost Veggie HoustonCultureMapDr. Ricky and Hank on Food.)

 Uchi | 904 Westheimer | Houston 77006 | 713-522-4808 | uchihouston.com

Uchi on Urbanspoon

Perhaps the best thing a foodie can do is to discover a new restaurant, and explore its menu. But how many can we sample each week? The short answer - fewer than we'd like.

The Houston Press has a solution - its Menu of Menus Extravaganza. This annual event (now going on its 8th year) showcases over thirty restaurants, and also features wine, beer, and liquor tastings.

Participating restaurants include Laurenzo’s, Fins Seafood, Sushi & Grill, Tinto’s Spanish Restaurant & Wine Bar, Italiano’s Restaurant, Textile, Kahn’s Deli, Ooh La La Dessert Bakery, Bodegas, Taco Shop, Rice Thai Kitchen, Ritter’s Frozen Custard, Harry’s Restaurant, Shipley Do-Nuts, Auntie Chang’s Dumpling House, Kaneyama Japanese, Tampico Seafood & Cocina Mexicana, Thai Bistro Restaurant, Lucky’s Pub, Cork Soakers, The Teahouse Tapioca & Tea, My Dee Dee’s Pie Shoppe & Deli, tasti D-Lite, Alamo Drafthouse Theater, Sushi King, Anothai Cuisine, Last Concert Café, Nelore Churrascaria, Danton’s Gulf Coast Seafood Kitchen, Hearsay Gastro Lounge, Rudyard’s Pub, Two Saints Restaurant, Tila’s Restaurante & Bar, Georgia’s Farm to Market, Mumbai Spice, Dosey Doe Coffee House, Fruituzy, Fadi’s Mediterranean Grill, Simply Splendid, Kim Son, Blue Nile Ethiopian Cuisine and House of Blues.


As you'd expect, there will be entertainment. It turns out that it's one of our favorite local bands, Faye Robinson & The Mid City Players. We've seen 'em several times at Sammy's, and they put on a wonderful show, always to a packed house.

Where? West Ave, at 2920 Kirby.

The event is Tuesday, April 13th, 2010, from 7pm to 10pm for general admission guests. VIPs get in an hour earlier.

UPDATE: Presale tickets are no longer available. You've got to buy 'em at the door now. I hope our readers were able to get in on the great deals.

Get your tickets direct from the Houston Press. All proceeds benefit Discovery Green and The Center for Hearing and Speech.

HOT: H-Town Chow Down readers can receive a discount of $10 on general admission tickets by using the promo code friendsandfamily, or a $15 discount on VIP tickets (while they last) with promo code VIPCHEAP.

The event is sponsored by LikeMe.Net, Momentum Audi, Momentum Volkswagen, Georgia’s Farm to Market, West Ave, Flowers by Nino, Admiral Linen, Nauset Concepts and 104.1 KRBE.

See y'all there!


Truffles. That elusive ingredient that can transform an already excellent dish to another plane. Rich, earthy, musky, rare and delicious. We were having a craving for truffles, so we went to the place we knew would be offering them: Tony's.

Tony's is the iconic Houston fine dining restaurant. It has been the preferred destination for the city's glitterati for many years, but some foodies grumbled that the cuisine was too staid, too traditional, too boring.

In our experience, nothing could be farther from the truth. My guess is that these foodies have never dined at Tony's, and that is their loss.

Tony Vallone is a master restaurateur, and he periodically reinvents the restaurant, making it fresh and new, but never gets caught up in the fly-by-night trends that tempt the less savvy host. And the Vallone touch is evident on every plate that exits the kitchen... this attention to detail is a key that separates Tony's from Houston's other fine dining establishments.

The latest incarnation of Tony's resides at the beautiful Richmond and Timmons location that Tony's occupied after decades on Post Oak. Built from the ground up to Tony Vallone's exacting specifications, this dramatic setting was the backdrop for our truffle degustation.

Executive Chef Francesco Casetta's kitchen is firing on all cylinders, and created a variety of dishes that flowed together like movements in a symphony. Several featured the ethereal truffle as an ingredient.

We started with a simple Tortelloni Bolognese - housemade pasta stuffed with three cheeses and draped in Tony's superb bolognese meat sauce. The flavors are bold yet smooth, and this dish warmed up our senses for the upcoming courses.

Next was my favorite appetizer - Paglia e Fieno. A deceptively simple dish featuring fresh ribbons of green and white tagliatelle, drizzled with a light cream sauce and accented with thin slices of fresh black truffles. Simple and superlative.

We then tried something more exotic - Tagliarini with Sicilian Sea Urchin. Smooth strands of tagliarini were tossed in a light creamy sauce of pinot grigio and alba mushrooms, and mixed with chunks of sea urchin. The dish was surprisingly spicy; the heat was balanced by the creamy pasta. It was something we'd never experienced before, but would gladly order again.

Our final appetizer is one we can rarely pass up at Tony's - the Japanese-influenced Ribbons and Squares. Fresh, sushi-grade blue fin tuna prepared two ways: perfect thumb-sized cubes, and thin, pasta-like ribbons formed into a cylindrical shape. The tuna is accented with fresh avocado puree and a tangy soy-lime vinaigrette. We love sushi, and the balance of this dish speaks to a bright future if the Vallones ever decide to open a sushi bar.

After these delicious entrees, it was time for the main course. More truffles were called for, so we ordered the rich Stuffed Truffled Filet of Beef. This may be the best steak in the city - a large, thick filet of USDA Prime beef, naturally aged for 40 days, and stuffed with black truffle butter. The truffle flavor infuses the beef, and the combination is greater than the sum of the parts.

On the side we asked for the oven-roasted truffled potatoes and the decadent truffled macaroni & cheese. These side dishes accented the steak very nicely, and we were awash in the aroma and flavor of truffles.

We barely had room for dessert, but missing the souffle at Tony's seems like a crime. This time we selected the rich bananas foster souffle, which was a delightful finish to an unforgettable meal.

My waistline won't tolerate a meal like this every day, but I'll be looking forward to the next gastronomical adventure at Tony's. The restaurant never disappoints.

Tony's: 3755 Richmond Avenue, Houston, 77046, 713-622-6778
TonysHouston.com

Tony's Restaurant on Urbanspoon

A few significant restaurant closings in the Houston area:

Azzarelli's, Katy
Backdoor Sushi, River Oaks
The Brownstone, River Oaks
Chocolata, The Woodlands
Hunan River, River Oaks
Little Hip's Diner, Washington Ave.
La Mesa Bistro, The Woodlands

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