As 2010 draws to a close, it's time for us to look back at this remarkable year, and recognize the people, places, and things that we'll most fondly remember.


Trend of the Year

Burgers, burgers, burgers.  The humble hamburger represents a full-fledged trend in the Houston dining scene.  Always a popular choice, we've seen it elevated to new heights by both fine dining establishments and neighborhood joints.  It seems that every other new restaurant features a signature burger, and the result is that diners can enjoy a superb meal for an amazingly modest tariff.

Annoying Trend of the Year
Foodie Backlash.  During 2010, we saw an increasing number of pundits attack foodies and their enthusiasm for great meals, talented chefs, and the whole experience of dinner-as-theater.  Granted, some foodies brought this upon themselves, but we thought it was a bit disingenuous to attack an entire group based on the antics of a few overly self-serious standouts.

Closing of the Year

Tesar's.  One of the most promising restaurants outside the loop fell victim to the slow economy, a seemingly hexed location, and inexperienced management.  But out of the ashes of the restaurant's failure arose two talented young chefs who will be making their mark on the Houston restaurant scene in the coming years.


Honorable Mentions: Amici, Sabetta, La Trattoria, The Rockwood Room

Opening of the Year

Caffe Bello.  Tony Vallone has been the master of fine dining in Houston for decades, and many an eyebrow was raised when he announced plans to open a restaurant in Montrose.  This was not the playground of his usual crowd, but Tony, son Jeff, and savvy young partner Scott Sulma quickly charmed the denizens of Montrose with their spin on modern Italian cuisine, including the tasty, thin-crust pizzas that left all the critics swooning.

Honorable Mentions: Samba Grille, The Burger Guys, Cinq.

Burger of the Year

Hubcap Decker at Hubcap Grill.  This category was a tough one in 2010 - we sampled dozens of fantastic burgers, and didn't even work our way to the end the list of places we wanted to try.  But one burger stood out for us among all the rest - Ricky Craig's superlative Hubcap Decker, perhaps the finest incarnation of a traditional double cheeseburger we've ever encountered.

Honorable Mentions: Samba Grille Burger, Bleu Cheese Burger at Hubble & Hudson Kitchen, Beaver Burger

Foodie of the Year

Dr. Ricky.  Anyone following the Houston food scene knows that Houston has no shortage of people who are willing to share their experiences and opinions about food and dining.  But we think that Dr. Ricky goes above and beyond, and educates his audience with every post.  His knowledge of food is vast, and we had the pleasure of dining with him and learning that the man is just as insightful and interesting in person as he is online.

Honorable Mentions: Robb Walsh, J.C. Reid, Nishta Mehra

Critic of the Year

Katharine Shilcutt.  When Robb Walsh stepped down as critic for the Houston Press, a vacuum was formed, and we were very curious to find out who would fill it.  Enter Katharine Shilcutt, a popular local blogger and foodie who had recently started making great contributions to the Press's Eating Our Words blog.  Shilcutt had big shoes to fill, but her engaging writing style, quick wit, and genuine love of exploring new places made her the right choice for the Press.

Honorable Mentions: Alison Cook, Sarah Rufca

Restaurateur of the Year

Bryan Caswell.  We've watched Bryan Caswell expand his sphere of influnce from the kitchen of Hotel Icon to the living rooms of foodies across America.  Along the way, he's opened what many consider to be the best seafood restaurant in the United States (REEF), an outstanding slider joint (Little Bigs), and a unique spin on Texas Italian cuisine (Stella Sola).  Between all this he had a chance to represent Houston on The Next Iron Chef, and explain to up-and-coming cooks why they need to work in a Waffle House.  Next up?  Opening a classic Tex-Mex place in Montrose with Robb Walsh.  After that, we expect a run for the Governor's Mansion.

Honorable Mentions: Monica Pope, Jeff Vallone, Cary Attar

Chef of the Year

Cesar Rodriguez.  Houston is a town with a lot of churrascarias.  But one, Samba Grille, stands above them, with an impressive slate of composed dishes alongside the savory grilled meats.  Chef Rodriguez has brought his years of experience (with both the Vallone and Cordua organizations) to this new restaurant, and right out of the gate the new kitchen was firing on all cylinders.  We attended the soft opening, and can't remember a new organization ever executing so well.  The result was that after being open for only a month, Samba was on every critic's short list for 2010, and deservedly so.  From unique soups to a top-notch burger, the kitchen at Samba Grill delivers, thanks to Chef Rodriguez's watchful eye at the helm.

Honorable Mentions: L.J. Wiley, Jeramie Robison, Austin Simmons, Bryan Caswell

Restaurant of the Year

Hubcap Grill.  There are tens of thousands of restaurants in Houston, and the safe choice would be one of the city's superb fine dining establishments.  But to us, Hubcap Grill sums up what a great restaurant is all about: A superlative product delivered with vision and passion, making its guests very happy.  A tiny location in the shadow of the tall buildings downtown, Hubcap Grill has become Houston's go-to spot for great burgers, due to the hard work and brilliant insight of Ricky Craig, the chef and proprietor.  Ricky's approach to designing a burger is as meticulous as the work of any Cordon Bleu-trained chef, and the results speak for themselves: Hoardes of satisfied guests, and a list of accolades including three coveted stars from Alison Cook.  We concur with the esteemed Ms. Cook; Hubcap Grill has succeeded, and is among the very best restaurants to be found in the city.

Honorable Mentions: Samba Grille, RDG+Bar Annie, Chez Roux

We're big fans of the food of New Orleans.  Whether it's the upscale Creole cuisine served at the fine restaurants around the Crescent City, or the down-home Cajun food found at hole-in-the-wall kitchens all over Louisiana, we love the cuisine of our neighbor to the East.

The only problem is that it can be tough to find... especially as you get farther outside the Loop.

So you can imagine our interest when we received a tip from a reader about a new restaurant opening on Market Street.  Called Schilleci's New Orleans Kitchen, it's a family-run restaurant located on Market Street in the shadow of the Avia Hotel.

Wait a minute.  Family run?  On Market Street?  The place where the new Tiffany's just opened, and Tommy Bahama's is inexplicably busy all the time?

It's true.  The Schilleci family has opened this intimate, elegant French Quarter-style restaurant on Market Street.  The family had operated a small carry-out cajun cafe in Spring, but when their lease ran out, they decided to head north to the Woodlands to open a full-service restaurant.  Market Street is truly becoming the culinary capital of Montgomery County.


The restaurant is strategically located by both the Avia Hotel and the parking garage.  So unlike just about every other restaurant on Market Street, parking should be plentiful and nearby.

We visited Schilleci's for a late lunch on their first day in business, and met most of the family.  Wayne Schilleci, Sr is the patriarch of the family; he and his wife Debbie were overseeing the bright, airy dining room from a strategic location in the corner.  Wayne Sr was also talking with every customer, soliciting feedback and displaying the type of humility that's rare in the restaurant business.  Their son Zach was overseeing the front of the house, welcoming each guest and coordinating the operation of the very new waitstaff.  Wayne Jr is the chef, and was putting his kitchen staff through their paces - in this brand-new restaurant, many of the cooks had never worked together before, and had to learn to coordinate their efforts.

The Schilleci Family: Debbie, Wayne Sr, Zachary, Wendy, Wayne Jr

But how is the food?  We know it's not fair to pass judgement on a restaurant's cuisine on its first day, but we want to pass along our initial impressions.  We sampled a couple of New Orleans classics:  Jambalaya and Seafood Gumbo.

First, the Jambalaya.  Our cup was overflowing with chunks of soulful, coarse-grained Andouille sausage and thick slices of spicy Italian sausage.  Completing the dish was some beautiful saffron-colored rice, seasoned with peppers, onions, and a hint of celery.  The heat level was moderate, starting deceptively slowly and building up to a nice controlled burn.  The heat was masterfully balanced with the savory flavors in the dish, something that's all to rare in Cajun cooking.

Next up was the gumbo.  We sampled Schilleci's seafood gumbo, a sharp, spicy roux packed with plenty of nicely-sized gulf shrimp and lump crabmeat.  The roux had a simmering, balanced heat, and the onion, pepper, and okra flavors melded to create an exceptional background for the fresh seafood.

We love gumbo, and Schilleci's may be the best gumbo we've had in Texas.  We were particularly impressed that we didn't have to kick up the roux with a few drops of Tabasco - Chef Wayne is not afraid to season his gumbo, and deftly walked the line between too bland and too hot.

Wayne Schilleci Jr and Zach Schilleci

Schilleci's didn't feel like a restaurant that had just opened.  The staff was knowledgeable and friendly, the food was very well prepared, and the cozy interior was beautifully finished - the dove grey walls were adorned with  photos of New Orleans taken by another family member.  Considered touches were all around; even the ceiling was tiled with ornate squares that evoked the feeling of a hundred-year-old establishment in the Quarter.  And the Schilleci brothers seem to naturally fall into the two key roles needed for a successful restaurant - a talented chef in the back of the house, and a gracious host who's working the room and keeping the patrons happy.

We predict that Schilleci's will be a big success; it's a totally different dining option for Woodlands residents, and the restaurant is overflowing with the type of warmth that only comes from a family-run establishment.

Schilleci's New Orleans Kitchen - 9595 Six Pines Drive Suite 120
281-419-4242 - www.Schillecis.com

Schilleci's New Orleans Kitchen on Urbanspoon

Back in the 80's and 90's, Carrabba's was one of my go-to Italian restaurants.  Back then, that meant the family-operated locations on Kirby and Voss.  To this day, I have a soft spot for the chain, and consider them to be a step or two above their Olive Garden and Macaroni Grill brethren.

Lately, we've gone to the Woodlands location several times, and I've become hooked on their Tagliarini with Picchi Pacchiu sauce - pasta, crushed tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, and basil.  Simple, light, and very tasty.  Carrabba's has entered into our regular rotation when we're in the mood for Italian food in the Woodlands.

That changed over the weekend.

We were dining with friends, and I decided to order some of their tomato basil soup - even though we are in a summer heat wave, it sounded refreshing.

The soup arrived, and it was very tasty - light, tartly tangy, and with a bit more bite than you typically find from a chain.  All in all, it was quite good... until my spoon encountered something in the bowl.  I assumed it was a bit of pasta that got tossed into the wrong pot, but that wasn't the case.

It was a chunk of plastic.  Covered in the soup, I couldn't identify it further.


A few minutes later, a manager walked by, and I told him that there was debris in the soup.  He took the spoon and fished around in my bowl (at the table... very appetizing) and declared it was the top to one of their containers.  He whisked it away, saying that he'd get me another bowl.

A few moments later, someone else dropped of another (thankfully, plastic-free) bowl of soup.  No word from the manager... not even an apology, much less some sort of offer of compensation for the trash that was served to me in my soup.

And less than a minute after the soup appeared, the entrees were brought, so the timing of the meal was ruined.  Honestly, at this point, I didn't have much of an appetite.

Folks, this is a perfect example of how NOT to handle a screw-up in the kitchen.  Screw-ups happen, but it tells you much about an organization to see how they handle the situation.  Honestly, after the debris in my bowl, I wasn't anxious to eat more of this soup - no telling what else fell into the same pot, from which the second bowl was no doubt ladled.

A competent manager would, at a very minimum, apologize for the mistake, and have asked if I would prefer something else.  A smart one would have gone above and beyond in some way to change what we remembered about the meal.

This manager has now guaranteed that when I think of Carrabba's, I'll think of garbage in my soup.

At this point, all I can suggest is that you avoid Carrabba's.  With this attitude from management we have no confidence in them whatsoever.

UPDATE: Caffe Bello closed in the Spring of 2011.

I make no bones about it - I'm a big fan of Tony Vallone, and I think his restaurants set the standard that few others in town can even approach.  From the food to the service to the setting, Tony and his staff show an attention to detail that is rare in the restaurant business.

(The Vallones are also clients of mine.  Ever since my friend Jack Tyler introduced me to Tony almost a decade ago, my company has created all of the web sites for Vallone restaurants, from the original pre-Landry's Grotto to Ciao Bello, and of course for his flagship, Tony's.  And as a foodie, they are the best client I could ever have, because every meeting involves wonderful food, and the opportunity to learn from Tony, his son Jeff, Chef Bruce McMillian, their young front-of-the-house wizard Scott Sulma, and the rest of their team of extraordinary minds.  It's like being a baseball fan, and being asked to create something for the Yankees.)

So I was very happy to hear from Tony and his son Jeff about the new concept for a restaurant they were creating in Montrose, to be called Caffe Bello.  The excitement in Tony's voice was palpable.  Caffe Bello really was to be something different, targeted at a young, hip, Montrose crowd, while still maintaining the signature Vallone touches that lift their restaurants above the ordinary.  Most restaurateurs who had 45 years under their belts would be coasting, but Tony was visibly excited by the challenge of bringing his art to a whole new generation of patrons.

Caffe Bello is an Italian restaurant, of course.  That's what the Vallones do best.  But what would Tony bring to Montrose, the epicenter of hip and cool?  Driving down lower Westheimer one encounters a veritable who's who of hot, trendy restaurants, with places like Feast, Indika, and Dolce Vita each doing a brisk business.  In this setting that craves the new and different, how would Houston's iconic establishment restaurateur create a restaurant to surprise and delight this finicky neighborhood?


The answer: Tony would do this the way he does everything else:  By adapting to his customers, and creating for them something unique.  And exceeding expectations, which are already high, given the Vallone name attached to the project.

Upon entering Caffe Bello on its first Friday night, we were surprised by how different the space feels.  This isn't Tony's with its soaring ceilings and world-class art grabbing your eye.  Nor was it Amici, feeling upscale and casual and filled with families and couples on dates.  This was edgy -- a long narrow room along Westhimer, exposed brick, no tablecloths.  It's fairly dark.  A bar hugs one end of the room.  It felt more like the Village or SoHo in Manhattan than near downtown Houston.

One new Vallone trademark grabbed us immediately - stunning abstract works by John Palmer.  Palmer's canvasses captured the edgy energy of the room, and reflected it back.

The edge extends into the back of the house, with chef Michael Dei Maggi, formerly of Max's Wine Dive and the Rockwood Room helming the kitchen.  Chef Dei Maggi is the kind of chef you'd never picture working with Tony Vallone - sporting numerous tatoos that speak volumes about his cutting edge sensibilities.  But a look through Dei Maggi's previous gigs shows the sort of creative flair that Montrose craves - he's the type of chef who's looking forward, never backward.  We've been a fan of Chef Dei Maggi's work, and were looking forward to seeing how he and Tony would work together.

The youth isn't just in the kitchen.  Scott Sulma is a partner in this project.  For those who don't know him, Scott is the twentysomething general manager of Tony's, the Vallone's flagship restaurant and considered by many to be the finest restaurant in Texas.  Scott brings an intuitive grasp of hospitality and organization to Caffe Bello; he is simply unflappable in very demanding situations, and the fact that a man in his 20's can rise so high in the Vallone organization is testament to his ability.

We drove into Montrose from the Woodlands, and handed off our car to the valet.  After a very brief wait, we were seated.  The restaurant was going through its soft opening, and hadn't advertised its presence, but the buzz had already started in Montrose, and the dining room was full.  It turned out that we were at a table next to Tony, his wife Donna, and their daughter Lauri, there to enjoy dinner and make sure the new store was up to speed.

We perused menu, and were immediately taken by the tightly edited menu of unique offerings.  A variety of pizzetta (small, individual pizzas), none of which looked familiar to us.  A meatball burger.  A chicken-fried sirloin.  And a variety of other dishes you'd never seen on the menu at Tony's, Ciao Bello or Amici.

We couldn't wait to order.

First came the bread service - instead of the expected basket, it was placed on a sheet of brown paper, and casually arranged.  Of course, being a Vallone joint, the casual arrangement somehow looked effortlessly artistic.

The breads were warm, housemade, and had surprisingly complex flavors - we fought over the dense, chewy, sweet roll, and fortunately more were quickly delivered when ours was devoured.

We jumped around the menu, ordering items that looked most fascinating.  First up was a pizzetta - one with bresaola (thinly sliced cured beef) pear, taleggio and Italian truffle honey.

Rarely am I a fan of what I call "designer" pizza - I am a devoted pepperoni guy.  But this pizza was outstanding - bubbly, crispy, slightly sweet crust, dense, chewy, smoky beef, creamy and herby white cheese, and the tangy bite of the pears made this a dish we'll be reordering as soon as possible.  Even my lovely bride, who is not a terribly adventurous diner, found herself drawn to this creation.  A pity, because that meant I had to share it with her.  But love conquered... at least this time.

While I dolefully watched my wife enjoy her last slice of pizza, Tony caught my eye from the next table.  He handed me a plate, and on that plate was a sandwich.  As was the theme for the evening, it was no ordinary sandwich.

First, half of it was missing, and Tony's wry smile let me know who had tested it.  Second, it was a veal cutlet grinder, containing a gently breaded slice of veal, some fresh mozzarella, roasted peppers and greens, and it was served on a housemade ciabatta bun.  The bite of the peppers, the smooth, lush cream of the mozzarella, and the mild beefy flavor of the veal played together like a well-practiced band, with each ingredient playing well on its own, but the combination being so much more than the sum of the parts.

This demostrated something I learned years ago - if Tony or Jeff suggests something, do not pass it up.  And if Tony orders something for himself, prepare to be wowed.

Tony was very interested to know what I thought of the dish, and he was very happy when I raved about it.  His interest caught me off guard when he asked for my feedback the first time, many years ago.  The man is a true master of the culinary arts, yet his humility is a guiding force... he really wants to know what makes each and every guest happy, and he will figure out how to give it to them.  He's built a very successful business doing so, and his patrons display the sort of loyalty that is unheard of in the restaurant industry.  There's a reason for this.

Back to the food.  Next out of the kitchen were the diver scallops saltimbocca.

We've always enjoyed Tony's seafood offerings, but this was something totally different.  Rich, silky, just-past-al dente scallops were blanketed in thick-sliced, earthy prosciutto, and a sharp, sour caper agresto added a bold note.  Served with tomato and grilled asparagus, this small plate demonstrated convincingly that combining the deft Vallone approach with daring Dei Maggi strokes was going to lead us in some deliciously unexpected directions.

After a brief break, it was time for the entree.  I love chicken-fried steaks, and I honestly never expected to see one served at a Vallone place.  But here it is:

Unsurprisingly, this is not a typical chicken-fried steak.  Tender sirloin was hand-breaded, and topped with truffle cream gravy - the mild, soulful truffles were a nice bonus.  The accompaniment for this dish was the side of whipped potatoes, highlighted with reggiano cheese.  We've never before encountered a chicken-fried steak that spoke to us with an Italian accent, but we're glad we tried this one.  The quality of the meat alone made a huge difference, and adding the Italian accent elevated this dish to new heights.

Around this time Jeff Vallone wandered over, and said we had to try something.  In this case, "something" proved to be their orecchiette pasta, a simple but unique dish composed of pasta, rapini, grape tomatoes, and breadcrumbs.

Breadcrumbs?  The breadcrumbs were crunchy, and added a delightfully new texture to the slightly tart pasta dish, and the rapini added an assertive bitterness that was deftly offset by the acid from the tomatoes.  Again, the rule of thumb:  If Tony or Jeff suggests something, do not pass it up.

At this point, I was so full as to nearly be in pain, but I've learned that I cannot bring my bride or our daughter to a Vallone restaurant without ordering dessert.  Thankfully, they were doing the selecting at this point, so in my food-induced haze I sat back and watched what came out:  First were petite, housemade ice cream sandwiches.

Both the cookies and the ice cream were housemade; we were particularly taken with the strawberry, which was lusciously creamy and studded with pea-sized chunks of fresh strawberry.

The end of the meal was a staple of any Vallone dessert menu - Elizabeth's cheesecake.  Finally we'd get something that was familiar.  Or so I thought.

This was a remarkable juxtaposition of the familiar with the new - the silky, lutescent filling and the delightfully crispy crust were present and accounted for, but the serving was a bold rectangle, the topping was thick, rich caramel sprinkled with nuts, lightly caramelized bananas were sliced on the side, and a smear of delicate, ambrisial butterscotch sauce punctuated the service.  Apparently even family icons are not safe from the twists that come forth from Chef Dei Maggi's mind.

This remarkable meal speaks volumes about how well things can turn out when you assemble a team with culinary talent and let them do what they do best.  And we were again amazed (although by now we should expect it) that a restaurateur who's been successful for over four decades can create a new, cutting edge restaurant, and delight an audience that probably wasn't born when he opened his first location.

I've been accused more than once of being a fan of Tony Vallone's, and I cannot dispute this.  Tony is the textbook definition of a master restaurateur:  His restaurants are considered to be among the very best anywhere, and he's been keeping them there for over four decades.

Caffe Bello shows that the master hasn't lost his touch, and that he's assembled a team that can translate the legendary Vallone experience into one that will be embraced by a cutting-edge audience.  I think that sums up Tony's philosophy:

The food will always be changing, but excellence never goes out of style.

Caffe Bello - 322 Westheimer - 713-520-5599 - CaffeBello.com

Caffe Bello on Urbanspoon

The Woodlands area is becoming a respectable culinary destination, but we're often frustrated by the lack of independent restaurants in the Woodlands proper.  Bucking this trend is Caffe di Fiore, a small storefront cafe located at the far West end of Woodlands Parkway, and area that is badly in need of interesting places to eat.

We parked, and entered the establishment, and were seated promptly.  Our visit was during a World Cup match, and the restaurant was filled with patrons dining while watching the match on the flat panel TVs.  We're not huge fans of soccer, but we got caught up in the excitement; the enthusiasm of the crowd was infectious.

We browsed the menu, and were surprised and pleased by the eclectic offerings.  Part Italian, part Mediterranean, part Mexican, and part new-age Californian, the menu was filled with the sort of light dishes that seemed well suited for a hot Texas summer afternoon.
Scanning down the list, my eyes were drawn to one of my all-time favorite Mexican dishes: Tacos al pastor.  It's rare to find this dish outside of taquerias and taco trucks, so it was an easy decision for me.  (It was also an easy decision to avoid ordering it "Gringo style", with cheese added.)
What arrived was a plate lined with five smallish tacos filled with lushly marinated grilled pork.  The coarsely chopped onion and cilantro were very fresh and served on the side, allowing me to add just the right amount.  The juicy lime slices were appreciated as always, and there was a mysterious green sauce as well.  Avocado?  Not even close - a quick taste revealed a muy caliente green chili sauce, which handily overpowered the more delicate flavors of the marinated pork.  After sparingly applying the sauce to one taco, we concluded that the sauce was best left in its dish.

The pork was nicely marinated and moist, but not too juicy.  These are some of the best tacos al pastor we've had, and certainly the best we've found in the Woodlands area.  They're nearly up to our gold standard, Guero's in Austin.
The second dish we sampled was a ham and cheese wrap, served with a light summer salad.  The wrap that came out looked gigantic, but it turned out that the wrap was almost entirely filled with lettuce; there was one skimpy slice of ham, and a lonely slice of unidentifiable cheese thrown into the mix.  If you're on a diet or you really love lettuce, this may be a great wrap for you, but we were a bit underwhelmed.
As with most restaurants in the Woodlands proper, prices are slightly high, but not objectionably so.
All in all, we like the concept at Caffe di Fiore, and if they will be a bit less strict in rationing the non-vegetable fillings for the wraps, we think they've got a winning concept.

Caffe di Fiore - 10110 Woodlands Parkway - 281-298-1228 - caffe-di-fiore.com

Caffe Di Fiore on Urbanspoon

Perhaps the best thing a foodie can do is to discover a new restaurant, and explore its menu. But how many can we sample each week? The short answer - fewer than we'd like.

The Houston Press has a solution - its Menu of Menus Extravaganza. This annual event (now going on its 8th year) showcases over thirty restaurants, and also features wine, beer, and liquor tastings.

Participating restaurants include Laurenzo’s, Fins Seafood, Sushi & Grill, Tinto’s Spanish Restaurant & Wine Bar, Italiano’s Restaurant, Textile, Kahn’s Deli, Ooh La La Dessert Bakery, Bodegas, Taco Shop, Rice Thai Kitchen, Ritter’s Frozen Custard, Harry’s Restaurant, Shipley Do-Nuts, Auntie Chang’s Dumpling House, Kaneyama Japanese, Tampico Seafood & Cocina Mexicana, Thai Bistro Restaurant, Lucky’s Pub, Cork Soakers, The Teahouse Tapioca & Tea, My Dee Dee’s Pie Shoppe & Deli, tasti D-Lite, Alamo Drafthouse Theater, Sushi King, Anothai Cuisine, Last Concert Café, Nelore Churrascaria, Danton’s Gulf Coast Seafood Kitchen, Hearsay Gastro Lounge, Rudyard’s Pub, Two Saints Restaurant, Tila’s Restaurante & Bar, Georgia’s Farm to Market, Mumbai Spice, Dosey Doe Coffee House, Fruituzy, Fadi’s Mediterranean Grill, Simply Splendid, Kim Son, Blue Nile Ethiopian Cuisine and House of Blues.


As you'd expect, there will be entertainment. It turns out that it's one of our favorite local bands, Faye Robinson & The Mid City Players. We've seen 'em several times at Sammy's, and they put on a wonderful show, always to a packed house.

Where? West Ave, at 2920 Kirby.

The event is Tuesday, April 13th, 2010, from 7pm to 10pm for general admission guests. VIPs get in an hour earlier.

UPDATE: Presale tickets are no longer available. You've got to buy 'em at the door now. I hope our readers were able to get in on the great deals.

Get your tickets direct from the Houston Press. All proceeds benefit Discovery Green and The Center for Hearing and Speech.

HOT: H-Town Chow Down readers can receive a discount of $10 on general admission tickets by using the promo code friendsandfamily, or a $15 discount on VIP tickets (while they last) with promo code VIPCHEAP.

The event is sponsored by LikeMe.Net, Momentum Audi, Momentum Volkswagen, Georgia’s Farm to Market, West Ave, Flowers by Nino, Admiral Linen, Nauset Concepts and 104.1 KRBE.

See y'all there!

Bessilyn Piazza's sandtart cookies are out of this world—or soon will be. Recently approved to hitch a ride on the Space Shuttle Discovery (scheduled for an April 5 launch), Mrs. Piazza's cookies are headed to the International Space Station.


The melt-in-your-mouth cookies have been enjoyed by patrons of Bessilyn's restaurant, The Italian Cafe in Seabrook, for over 20 years. But when one customer requested a batch of cookies for special delivery, NASA called in the order. The customer is Colonel Timothy J. Creamer, Flight Engineer and NASA Science Officer, who is currently living and working aboard the International Space Station. Following standard procedure for crew requests, NASA contacted Bessilyn and obtained a batch of cookies for microbiological testing. One week later, the space-bound "to go" order was approved.

"My feet haven't touched the ground since I received the news," says Bessilyn. "This is something I never dreamed would happen. I'm still on cloud nine."

The original sandtart recipe hails from Bessilyn's late mother, who baked the Italian wedding-style cookies for years for The Italian Cafe. As demand for the cookies grew by the dozen, Bessilyn relieved her mother of the rolling pin and rolled up her own sleeves. She's been up to her elbows in flour ever since.

"When these cookies board the Space Shuttle in April, it will be the perfect tribute to my mother," says Bessilyn. "I know how proud she would be to see her sandtarts travel into space."

Six sandtart cookies for a mere $2.75 are a regular feature on The Italian Cafe's dessert menu. Shipping is available worldwide—and now off the planet.

(via PR Newswire)

UPDATE: Sadly, the Balinese Room was lost during the early morning hours of September 13, 2008, when Hurricane Ike crashed into the Galveston coast. All that remains are a few piers and the fading memories of those who loved the place.This story originally ran on our other food site, in March of 2003.

Way back in post-WWII Texas, one nightclub stood above the rest. It offered the best entertainers, the hottest crowds, and the best illegal gambling in the state. It was the infamous Balinese Room on Galveston island, the swankiest spot on the Gulf Coast.

“Deep in the South of Texas
not so long ago,
there on a crowded island
in the Gulf of Mexico

it didn't take too much money,
man, but it sure was nice.
You could dance all night if you felt all right,
drinking whiskey and throwing dice.

And everybody knows
it was hard to leave.
And everybody knows
it was down at the Balinese.”

“Balinese” – ZZ Top – 1975

The Balinese was the jewel in the crown of Sam and Rosario Maceo’s Galveston-based empire. The Maceo brothers were Italian immigrant barbers turned bootleggers, who ended up as a gambling club owners. Their holdings on Galveston Island were immense, and their influence helped Galveston weather the depression far better than most other cities across the nation.


The Maceo empire was the dominant force on Galveston Island during this period. It included the Turf Athletic Club, often referred to as the "Weekend Bank of Galveston". The TAC would cash checks and loan money for its patrons.

The Balinese started its storied history in 1923 as the Chop Suey, at 21st and Seawall. It was closed nine years later for a gambling violation. Four years after that, it reopened as an oriental restaurant and night club, called the Sui Jen. The Sui Jen was a successful enterprise for Maceo, but as with the modern restaurant business, it's often time for a change. Maceo had a new idea for the Sui Jen.

America was in the midst of World War II, and at the time, many Americans were uneasy with all things oriental. Ever the astute businessman, Maceo remodeled the Sui Jen in a South Seas motif, and christened it the Balinese Room in 1942.

 

In its heyday, The Balinese played host to high rollers from all over the country, including local legends Glenn McCarthy, Diamond Jim West, and Howard Hughes. The showroom featured headliners such as Frank Sinatra, Sophie Tucker, Burns and Allen, Bob Hope, and Jack Benny. Long before Las Vegas attracted the big names to the desert, Maceo’s Balinese Room brought ‘em to Galveston.

For many years, the Balinese resisted attempts to shut down its illegal activities. According to one former employee, the Balinese was raided on 64 consecutive nights without a single bust.

Its defense was ingenious. The casino was at the far end of the pier at 2107 Seawall, about 600 feet from the entrance on shore. When the Texas Rangers would raid the place, a buzzer sounded in the gaming room, and chips, cards, roulette wheels, and other gambling devices were hidden in the walk-in safe, or in special compartments in the walls. The gaming tables would be set with tablecloths, china, and silver. The band would strike up “The Eyes of Texas”, and patriotic patrons would stand up and start singing, and the crowd would slow the progress of the rangers rushing to catch gamblers in the act.

Local law enforcement looked the other way. Frank Biaggne, sheriff of Galveston County from 1933 until 1957, was asked why he didn’t raid the notorious place. He replied that it was a private club, and he was not a member.

The Balinese Room’s luck ran out on May 30, 1957, when new sheriff Paul Hopkins made a raid. He demanded entrance, and two detectives (disguised as gamblers) who were already in the casino stopped employees from stashing the evidence. The charges stuck, and the equipment was confiscated and destroyed.

The Balinese Room was finally shut down, and sat empty. In 1961, Hurricane Carla tore through Galveston, and damaged the former hotspot. Many of the piers that supported the structure had been washed away, and over the subsequent decades, the building decayed further. No one would have been surprised to wake up and find that the Gulf had swallowed up the old structure after a heavy storm.

Fast forward to 2002. After several false starts, someone has finally resurrected the famous Galveston landmark. Houston attorney Scott Arnold is the man behind the new Balinese Room, and he’s off to a great start.

As you drive up, you notice that the damaged piers have been replaced, the 600-foot long building has been repaired and repainted, and the atmosphere of neglect is gone.Entering the building takes you into the new gift shop, featuring a collection of new Balinese Room merchandise, and some interesting artifacts, such as the original chalkboard ledgers that were used to tally the odds for baseball betting. The faded names of the old Texas League teams could still be read.

Further back along the pier, you’ll pass new businesses along the long, narrow hallway. A hair salon, an internet café, a metaphysical shop (featuring psychics, crystals, and swords) and a massage studio (with a unique glass floor that looks down upon the waves under the building) lead you back to the entrance to the Balinese Room proper. These small shops represent a departure from the original Balinese.

Finally, one approaches the entrance to the first big room. There we met Scott Arnold, attorney and real estate speculator. Scott showed us around, clearly proud of what he’d accomplished. And for good reason. The work that’s been done to the once-decrepit Balinese Room is nothing short of spectacular.

 

On our right, brunch was being served in the showroom. A buffet was set up in what was previously the hat check room, and the folks were lined up to sample the offerings. But we didn’t come for the food. Scott led us into the showroom, and we were stunned. It appears to have been meticulously restored. The bamboo and reed wall coverings, now kitshy and retro, lined the room in their South Seas 1940’s splendor.
A good-sized crowd was enjoying the brunch buffet at tables spread around the room. The Sunday afternoon crowd was a bit more casually attired than the high rollers who frequented the Balinese in the past, but they were still having a wonderful time. Many assembled here today were wearing their Mardi Gras beads; it was the Sunday before Fat Tuesday, and the night before was the pinnacle of Galveston’s annual Mardi Gras celebration.

 

The old South Seas murals looked brand new; according to Arnold, they only required a light dusting after all the years of neglect. The palm trees, resplendent with black neon, fish netting, and an assortment of glass globes and sea artifacts (all original) looked just as they must have before the Rangers shut down the Balinese.

An older couple took to the dance floor and moved gracefully to the music. They were smiling and having a wonderful time. I had to wonder if their parents had done the same thing fifty years ago.

I asked Scott Arnold if I could see the old casino room. He smiled, and led me to a door at the back of the showroom. He unlocked it, and we entered the once forbidden space. “This room required the most work” Arnold noted. And the work was still going on. New flooring had been put down, and a fresh coat of paint lined the walls. Arnold showed me where the gambling machines used to sit. Around the room were panoramic windows looking out into the gulf, and over to the Flagship Hotel on its nearby pier.

Behind me, I noticed some beautiful acrylic drawings. Arnold told me that they were original, and some of the oldest works by Grace John. Many investors would be tempted to sell off this memorabilia, but Arnold plans to keep them right were they are, keeping a watchful eye over the back room.

Scott Arnold has big plans for the Balinese Room. He’s looking for a restaurant tenant, and a nightclub. Unless the laws in Texas change, gambling won’t be returning to the Balinese room, although I get the feeling from many of the folks visiting for brunch that they wouldn’t mind.

We reentered the showroom, and I talked with one of the bartenders; Jose Rey. He told me the story of the legendary Balinese room bartender Santos Cruz, who mixed a new drink for singer Peggy (Margaret) Lee in 1948. He named that drink after the Spanish version of her name: Margarita. You could sense Jose’s pride that he was working in such a historic place.

By the dance floor, the same piano that Duke Ellington used to play was being put to good use by a jazz pianist. She sang and played a selection of jazz and Big Band hits, and her voice filled the showroom with magic. In many settings, the music would have felt retro, almost silly. But here in the Balinese Room, it felt right. I was sorry I’d left my tux at home.

Over the years, I’d often talked with friends about the glitzy history of Galveston, and how the island is a shadow of its storied past. We talked about how amazing it would be to see the notorious Balinese Room brought back to its former glory. And now, thanks to Scott Arnold and his vision, it's happening.

On this Sunday during Mardi Gras, I found myself standing in the storied showroom of the Balinese Room, listening to my father’s music, and loving it. For a moment, I lost myself in the music and if I squinted just right, it was Saturday Night, I was back in the 40’s, at the swankiest joint on the Gulf Coast. Duke was on the keys, Sinatra was singing, and I was tappin' my toe, living the Delicious Life.

For those folks who'd like to experience the Balinese Room in person, the club is currently (as of March 2003) open most Friday and Saturday nights with live music, as well as the Sunday lunch. Look for the hours to expand as summer approaches.

Contact Information:
Balinese Room
2107 Seawall
(21st @ beach)
409 762 9696
www.Balineseroom.net

"The infamous Galveston landmark rises from the dead"
was written by Albert Nurick, March 4, 2003

HOUSTON --Tony’s Restaurant, the product of Tony Vallone’s life-long devotion to fine dining, will be honored at the Galleria Chamber’s annual Texas Legends Gala at the Omni Riverway tonight, Friday, February 19, 2010, at 7:30 p.m. Energetic and entertaining radio personality Sam Malone will serve as MC for the evening, alongside New York food critic and Esquire magazine columnist John Mariani, who will offer a colorful keynote address. Mike & Betty Tapick, owners of Martin Foods, along with Ileana Trevino, CEO of Memorial Hermann Foundation, and husband Michael Trevino, of Reputation Management Associates, will serve as Honorary Co-Chairs for the event. “We are thrilled to be part of this Texas Legends Gala and to recognize the Vallones contribution to Houston’s culinary scene,” said Ileana Trevino. A “Friend of Tony’s” and local legend herself, Yvonne Washington will perform standards to contemporary fare for gala patrons.

ABOUT TONY VALLONE

Tony Vallone is a master of the arts. His paintbrush - some of the world’s tastiest ingredients; his canvas - cuisine. Tony is a patriarch in the restaurant business, both locally in Houston, TX and around the globe. His talents in the kitchen and creation of brilliant, exquisite meals can be expressed simply as innovative. Houston has given Tony and his family so much as a city, and he won’t stop at returning the favor. An entrepreneur at heart, Vallone built a well-established eatery empire including establishments such as the famous Tony’s (coming up on its 45th year as one of the world’s most admired fine dining locales), Anthony’s, Vallone’s, La Griglia, the Grotto restaurants, Los Tonyos, and his latest endeavor, creating an exceptional old-world Italian menu at CIAO BELLO. From the posh to the casual and fun, Tony’s kingdom of restaurants is governed by one rule: Our guests become our extended family and our new friends. Pamper those guests with exceptional, innovative food, excellent wine and impeccable service.

This restaurant mogul’s impact extends far beyond the business of food. Vallone supports many civic and national philanthropic causes. He currently sits on the board of the Texas Heart Institute, M.D. Anderson and the University of Houston Conrad Hilton School of Restaurant and Hotel Management. Feeling right at home in the spotlight of the Nation’s fourth largest city, Houston, TX, Tony was the first Texan inducted into the National Restaurant Association Hall of Fame in 1982 as well as the first American-born board member of the famed Gruppo Ristoratori Italiani of Italy. He authored the highly successful tony’s…the cookbook. Tony has been a guest speaker at numerous civic and collegiate events and has appeared on behalf of his restaurant on national and local television. Among his many recognitions and awards, Tony has been inducted into the Nation’s Restaurant News “Hall of Fame” and was elected to the Culinary “Who’s Who of Texas.”

In December of 1998, Southern Living name the Vallone family “Houston’s Dining Dynasty,” calling Tony the “Taste-master of Texas.” He has served six U.S. presidents and numerous foreign presidents and dignitaries. Tony’s heart is in his restaurant. He enjoys working with his chefs and loves a culinary challenge. “Attention to detail” is the common denominator of his restaurant, and his entire staff is privy to his favorite motto: “You’re only as good as your last meal.”

(Source: Gabe Canales)

It's the end of the year, and time for us to recognize the people, places, and things that impressed us the most during the previous year.

Opening of the Year

Haven. Chef Randy Evans has been without a kitchen since Ike did a number on Brennan's, and rumors of his environmentally responsible Modern Texas Cuisine project were buzzing around the foodie community. Unlike many hotly anticipated restaurants, Haven opened with all cylinders firing, delighting patrons with its tightly focused, well executed menu.

Honorable Mentions: Tesar's, Ciao Bello, Chez Roux, Stella Sola

Event of the Year

Tenacity Dinners. Culinary magician and Houston rock star chef Randy Rucker (@greensandbeans) doesn't need a fixed location to practice his art. So he's organized periodic underground dining events, assisted by some of H-Town's top culinary talent. Foodies flock to the events, expecting to be wowed by Rucker's creations, and they walk way with their expectations exceeded. The best measure of their success: Every Tenacity dinner sells out minutes after it's announced, but you can read and drool on Rucker's blog.

Honorable Mentions: Fried Chicken Throwdown, Pork Belly Throwdown, Blogger Trip to the Inn at Dos Brisas

Foodie Accessory of the Year

Apple iPhone. The iPhone lets a foodie roam all around the Houston area and still keep his finger on the pulse of the food community. Apps like Yelp and UrbanSpoon give insight into previously unknown-to-you restaurants, and the map application's traffic display keeps you on schedule. The good enough camera lets you record your dining experience in excruciating detail, so you can share it with the world with a Twitter or blog client. You can even keep tabs on your bank account.

Honorable Mentions: Thermal immersion circulator, bottle of Tums, Randy Rucker's e-mail address

Burger of the Year

Tie: Tesar's Magic and Beaver's Burger. New York and Chicago can fight over who has the best pizza (it's NYC) but Houston stands alone as the city with the best burgers in the country. And while legendary burger joints like Christian's Totem continue to turn out an excellent product, two local chefs have raised the bar considerably in the burger world.

John Tesar has put together a superlative burger. Tesar's Burger Bar (located inside his Woodlands restaurant) offers several different burgers, but the purist Magic is our favorite. It's the iconic bacon cheeseburger taken to its ultimate conclusion with top quality ingredients and meticulous execution.

Johnathan Jones (@PapaBeav) takes a slightly different route at Beaver's, with equally impressive results. Ground sirloin is masterfully combined with brisket and ground bacon, and combines this unique patty with carefully selected components to produce a burger unlike anything we've tasted.

Which is better? We can't say. But we can say that a Houston burger lover needs to try them both.

Honorable Mentions: Christian's Totem, Farrago, Beck's Prime, Jasper's

Foodie of the Year

Katherine Shilcutt. Making the transition from blogger to the mainstream media isn't easy, but Shilcutt did so with style and verve. Her arrival at the Houston Press shook the cobwebs off the food writing at that alternative paper, and her Food Fight articles stimulate discussion (sometimes heated) throughout the foodie community. Her great twitter comments (@she_eats) complete the triple threat.

Honorable Mentions: Jenny Wang, Misha G., J.C. Reid, Jodie Eisenhardt

Critic of the Year

Alison Cook. The explosion of new media and food blogs brought many new voices sharing their opinions about dining, but one voice stands above all the rest: Alison Cook, the Chronicle's food critic. Her flowing prose takes the reader to the restaurant without leaving home, and her insightful analysis delves below the surface and educates the reader as well as entertains. Unlike many traditional journalists, Cook has embraced both twitter (@alisoncook) and blogging, and her Cook's Tour blog is a must follow for any Houston foodie.

Honorable Mentions: Robb Walsh, Ken Hoffman, Greg Morago

Restaurateur of the Year

Tony Vallone. Year after year, Houston's legendary restaurateur keeps his flagship restaurant Tony's at the forefront of Houston's culinary scene, and now he has another out-of-the-park hit with Ciao Bello, bringing authentic Italian cuisine to a packed house since opening day. In an industry where being around five years makes you and old timer, Vallone has been doing this for forty years, and is still at the top of his game. He's even on Twitter (@TonyVallone).

Honorable Mentions: Monica Pope, Bryan Caswell, Mark Cox, Alex Brennan-Martin

Chef of the Year

Plinio Sandalio. While the executive chefs get all the attention, we feel that pastry chef Plinio Sandalio is doing the most creative work at any restaurant in Houston. Patrons are visiting his restaurant, Textile, just to experience Plinio's remarkable dessert tastings, which stretch the definition of dessert beyond what's being done anywhere else in town. His blog always makes us hungry, and he's active on twitter (@psandalio) as well.

Honorable Mentions: John Tesar, Randy Rucker, Jason Gould, Jonathan Jones

Restaurant of the Year

Beaver's Ice House. We loved the concept of a local upscale BBQ joint, and thought the initial incarnation of Beaver's was off to a promising start. But it took the addition of local star Jonathan Jones (@PapaBeav) at the helm to fully realize the possibilities. Beaver's delivers great BBQ, innovative Gulf Coast seafood, and stellar burgers in a setting that would be off-the-charts cool no matter where it was located. Beaver's has become more than a restaurant; it's the unofficial hangout of the Houston foodie community, and a great place to run into one of Houston's top chefs when he's not under his toque.

Honorable Mentions: Tony's, Indika, Tesar's, Feast

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