I returned to Coal Burger on Thursday.  After eating a superlative burger, I was eager to sample more from the menu.  Unfortunately they were closed; problems with the ventilation system meant that the restaurant was too smoky when the coal-fired oven was operating.

But I did have the pleasure of meeting more of the people behind the restaurant, including one big surprise that explained a lot of things.
Chef Bradford Thompson is the corporate chef at the Grimaldi's organization, working behind the scenes on the food at Coal Burger.
Chef Bradford Thompson
(Photo courtesy Culinary Vegetable Institute)
Chef Thompson is the James Beard Award-winning chef who has numerous other accolades to his credit, including a AAA Five Diamond Award (at Mary Elaine's in Scottsdale), A Wine Spectator Grand Award, and multiple recognitions by Food and Wine Magazine.

Thompson also worked with the legendary Chef Daniel Boulud in Manhattan, helping plan and develop both Cafe Boulud and DB Bistro Moderne.  Chef Thompson also was in charge of private dining at New York's famed Restaurant Daniel.

What is a chef of this stature doing working for a small burger chain?  Developing the menu.  I spoke with Chef Thompson about his participation, and his enthusiasm was palpable.  Here is a man who has built a superb French kitchen in Manhattan, but he is pouring his heart into creating a superlative burger concept, one that can both deliver a $4 burger and be run in a socially responsible manner.
Listening to the chef talk about why the burger was designed as it was, and the other myriad decisions that went into creating Coal Burger was like taking a master class in designing a burger joint.  Clearly, Chef Thompson knows his burgers, and those of us who eat at Coal Burger are the happy beneficiaries of his knowledge and skill.
The chef spoke in detail about why the burger features quarter-pound patties instead of the larger ones favored by many steak houses.  (It's all about the multiple layers of char.)  He detailed the benefits of Niman Ranch beef and the other ingredients he selected.  He even talked about the decision to make Coal Burger an environmentally conscious restaurant, but not to overwhelm the customer with a "green" message. 
Clearly, the vision of a world-class chef has resulted in a very impressive product.  But his knowledge of the entire restaurant business is shaping Coal Burger to be considerably different than its competitors in the burger arena.  His culinary knowledge is a formidable secret weapon.
Unfortunately, Chef Thompson isn't going to be overseeing the Woodlands Coal Burger on a daily basis.  He'll be back in Manhattan, at the helm of his West Village Jamaican restaurant, Miss Lily's Favourite Cakes, and no doubt continuing his contributions to Food and Wine, Gourmet, Art Culinare, and the New York Times.

The Woodlands area is not lacking for choices when you're in the mood for Tex-Mex.  From Chuy's to Los Cucos to the Rico's empire, there's a Tex-Mex spot on just about any corner.

So you can imagine my indifference when I learned that the large restaurant being built at the intersection of 2920 and Kuykendahl was going to be another Tex-Mex spot.  I enjoy the cuisine, but feel that the area would be better served by just about any other type of restaurant.

Nevertheless, a recent weekend found us shopping at Lowe's (across the big parking lot) and hungry.  Alicia's building was inviting, so we walked over and entered.

We were immediately impressed by the beautiful setting and attractive decor.  The proprietor had clearly invested some money in his new establishment, and the result was impressive.  Dining areas were in different rooms (we tire of the single, huge cavern that seems to be popular with many restaurant designers) and an inviting bar was off to the side.

One of the dining rooms at Alicias (Unused at the time)

We were led to our table, and fresh housemade chips and salsa were quickly brought.  Chips and salsa are one's first impression of a Tex-Mex spot's cuisine, and we think they're very important.  Alicia's did not disappoint - the chips were thin and crisp, glowing with a thin sheen of oil that didn't result in a heavy taste.  The salsa was light, fresh, and had the bite of citrus, an excellent choice for a hot Texas summer.

Perusing the menu, we saw all the traditional Tex-Mex favorites, plus an emphasis on grilled meats.  My eye was drawn to one of their combinations.  Called simply "Cowboy Steak", it featured a 6 oz. black Angus outside cut of skirt steak, grilled and topped with three chipotle shrimp.  A pair of cheese enchiladas, and the de rigueur rice and beans completed the dish.

Cowboy Steak at Alicia's Mexican Grille

What came out was impressive.  An aggressively-charred, lime-marianated slab of honest-to-Robb skirt steak, topped with larger-than-expected, perfectly grilled shrimp.  The chipotle sauce provided a nice, smoky counterpoint to both the skirt steak and the shrimp, forming a delightful Gulf Coast / Border version of central Texas BBQ.  It was a fusion that worked.

Perhaps even more remarkable were the cheese enchiladas.  I consider this dish to be another benchmark for measuring a Tex-Mex spot, and Alicia's did not disappoint.  Fresh tortillas rolled around melted, oozing yellow cheese, topped with a very nice housemade chili gravy.  None of the mystery red sauce that some places substitute... a revelation.  These may be the best cheese enchiladas in the Houston area.

We're looking forward to returning to Alicia's in the very near future.  But it's going to be tough to order anything else on the menu.

We were thrilled to hear that Five Guys was opening up close to the Woodlands, and visited this store on 1488 near 2978 the day after it opened.  We drove out 1488, and saw the store on the left, just before 2978.

Parking was plentiful, but other burger lovers had gotten there before us, so we had a short, five-minute wait until we got to the counter.

What we got was the prototypical Five Guys experience: A very good burger, friendly service, and a sparkling clean location. Unlike some other "better burger" places, Five Guys hasn't forgotten that value is part of the equation - the burger was around $5.
The burger is exactly what we've come to expect from Five Guys. Two medium-thickness hand-formed patties of never frozen beef, a slice of nice quality American cheese, fresh veggies, and a fresh, soft bun. The beef is cooked well done, but still retains a good bit of ooze. This isn't an upscale steakhouse burger, but rather a very good fast-food burger. If you enjoy the genre, you will enjoy Five Guys.

Our only beef? The orders of fries are just too big. Even a small is way too much for one person. So we just skip the fries, which is a shame because they're pretty darned good.

Bottom line: Go. If you like burgers, you won't be disappointed.

Five Guys Burgers and Fries | 6619 FM 1488 | Magnolia, Texas 77354 | 832-934-2660

Five Guys Burgers and Fries on Urbanspoon

AUSTIN — Agriculture Commissioner Todd Staples and the Texas Department of Agriculture are asking chefs and restaurant owners who buy and serve local ingredients to bring Texas to the table during the fourth annual GO TEXAN Restaurant Round-Up, presented by Farm Credit.

During the statewide dine-out week, July 25-31, GO TEXAN member restaurants are offering special Texas menu items or a Texas food and wine pairing. Restaurants also are encouraged to donate part of their proceeds to local food banks and will receive a special menu feature on the Round-Up website for doing so.

“Our farmers, ranchers, winemakers and fishermen make it easy for chefs to serve fresh Texas fare,” Commissioner Staples said. “The GO TEXAN Restaurant Round-Up celebrates that connection while Texans enjoy local products and support local food banks. Chefs can sign up today to be part of one of the nation’s largest statewide dine-out weeks as we encourage patrons to ‘Go Out. Go Eat. GO TEXAN.’”

GO TEXAN is providing posters, save-the-date cards and other marketing materials to participating restaurants to help inform consumers of this opportunity to enjoy the best of Texas. Establishments serving at least three Texas wines may also receive GO TEXAN wine glasses while supplies last.

Hundreds of Texas restaurants across the state are participating in this year’s Round-Up, including Johnny Cace’s Seafood and Steak House in Longview, Southwest Bistro at the Hyatt Regency Austin, Haven in Houston, Calesa in Harlingen, Canary by Gorji in Dallas and Glazed Honey Ham Co. in Lubbock.

“I’m excited to show our local communities that we care about serving fresh local food and authentic Texas wines,” said Jim Baron, owner of Blue Mesa Grill and TNT / Tacos and Tequila in Dallas, Fort Worth and Austin. “Our customers, more and more, are interested in where their food comes from and appreciate fresh products from local farms and vendors. This is a great opportunity for Texas restaurants to partner with local food producers and give to local food banks.”

Source: Texas Dep't of Agriculture

You know that great book you've got on the shelf that you've been meaning to read?  Or that film in your Netflix queue that you've meant to watch for months, but you keep putting off?  If you write a food blog, the same thing happens with restaurants.  I've got several that I've been meaning to try, but a variety of excuses keeps popping up.  "I'm on the wrong side of town."  "My bride won't like it."  "James Beard Award nominee Katharine Shilcutt just reviewed it, and I'll never get a table."

Here's what I've been avoiding.  Yes, I'm an idiot.
You know the drill.
Regardless, I was recently visiting with some friends, and the discussion of what to do for dinner came up.  Being the resident foodie, everyone looked in my direction.  We were on the northwest side of town, right by the Beltway, so I immediately thought of a burger place that I've been grossly negligent about trying: The Burger Guys.  Fortunately, the idea was a popular one, so we caravaned down Beltway 8 to Westheimer, then headed west to find The Burger Guys.
Even though it was plotted on our GPS, the store was tricky to find.  Why?  Because they have perhaps the smallest sign known to mankind, and Westheimer is not a street known for subtle advertising.
That, my friends, was what we had to find along Westheimer.  Fortunately, my eagle-eyed bride spotted the sign as we passed, so we did the U-ey and pulled into the lot.
Entering The Burger Guys was a challenge - the counter where you order doesn't have a lot of space near it; the open kitchen and the dining area take up almost all of the restaurant's space.  I let my friends order, then approached the counter.  I asked the charming, knowledgeable woman a couple of questions, and I was pleasantly surprised to hear firm, direct answers.  "The Sonoma over the Houston.  No question."  "The salted caramel shake is fantastic."  It's frustrating when the staff has no opinion, or offers the dreaded "Everything is fantastic!!!"  (You can hear all three exclamation points)  None of this was a problem at the Burger Guys, and that was a great start.
We ordered, then were lucky to discover that the first member of our party had staked a claim to most of the long counter facing the kitchen.  The Burger Guys isn't set up for large parties, so if you come with a big group, expect to be split up or to get very lucky, as we did.  We sat down, absorbed the aromas and the vibe, and watched the parade of burgers and sides coming out.
Houston can be a small town at times, but we were way outside the loop, so we were astonished to run into Vic and Anthony's Michael Fulmer, a man known to frequent only the finest restaurants and houses of ill repute around town.  I'd never seen Fulmer outside the loop, and I had assumed that he would turn to salt if he stepped outside the perimeter of 610... and here he was outside the Beltway.  "Trust me.  It's worth it" he prophesied, and with that, he was gone.  If Fulmer will make the drive to this place, I'm expecting great things.

While waiting, it was time to grab a drink.  We walked over to the dispenser at the back of the room, and this is what we saw:
Be still, my beating heart.
But wait... there's more.
Instead of the generic Coca-Cola (or, heaven forbid, Pepsi) slate of products, we saw remarkably unique soda choices, headlined by none other than Dublin Dr Pepper, the mythical version of Dr Pepper made with real Imperial sugar, and usually only available in the immediate vicinity of Dublin, Texas.  How did The Burger Guys get this beverage that isn't sold in Houston?
"They call me Bootlegger" laughed Jake Mazzu, one of the owners, and thus one of The Burger Guys.  "I drive up to Dublin, and come back with 3,000 pounds of syrup."  That's a 550 mile round trip, and fortunately, the DPS has not been called out to stop Mr. Mazzu, at least not yet.  I was floored.  I was previously impressed by Ricky Craig at Hubcap Grill, and how he only sells bottled soda because he won't tolerate the variations in the mixture.  Here is a kindred spirit; he's willing to personally drive across Texas to source the beverages for his restaurant.  This attention to detail is rare, and as my experience with Hubcap Grill has shown, it can lead to a fantastic burger.
Mazzu introduced me to Clint Wilkinson, his sous chef.  "A sous chef at a burger place?"  would be a reasonable question, but after experiencing The Burger Guys, it doesn't seem presumptuous at all.  These guys could succeed in any kitchen in town (Wilkinson is an alum of Randy Rucker's kitchen, and seems to have survived the experience with his sense of humor intact) and we're lucky to have them all under one roof sharing their passion for burgers.  Wilkinson concocted a milkshake for me, and this was no ordinary milkshake.  Salted Caramel was the flavor, the ice cream was made in house, and yes, it tasted like fresh caramel that had been chilled and salted to balance out the sweetness and creaminess.  My conclusion:  If Clint Wilkinson tells you that he has created a Tabasco and Durian milkshake, you'd be smart to try it.

As if on cue, the food started to appear.  First came the fries.  Normally, I'd be miffed if everything didn't come out at once, but here the fries seemed more like an appetizer.  They were freshly cut, fried in duck fat, nicely crisped outside and tender inside, and flecked with kosher salt.  They were also right out of the fryer, and were hot to the touch.  
Direct from the fryer's duck fat to you
Going beyond Fancy ketchup (detect a trend yet?), The Burger Guys offers a wide variety of housemade dipping sauces, and our group sampled many of them.  Their take on the traditional ketchup grabbed me; it was sweeter than usual, with tangy undertones that I couldn't single out.  I'm not a huge ketchup fan, but this stuff is addictive.  All in all, the Burger Guys produce a top-quality fry, and enhance them with a wide variety of unique dipping sauces.  Again, they go above and beyond.
Now the main course arrived.  All the burger guys burgers carry geographic names appropriate to their blend of ingredients.  I'd chose the Sonoma; I felt it was closest to the basic cheeseburger that I use as a benchmark to compare burger joints.  I did have them leave off the avocado (very Sonoma county, dude) and the aoili, because I am not a fan of mayonnaise on burgers, even if it is housemade.
Superlative ingredients prepared by an expert chef
All burgers start with their beef, and The Burger Guys again go beyond the pale.  They source Akaushi beef, the Texas breed of waygu cattle.  The best steak I've ever eaten was an Akaushi ribeye I enjoyed at Tony's, and I believe that there is no finer beef to be found in America, but I digress.  I was skeptical about its use in a hamburger; I've had several burgers purportedly made from Kobe beef, and none have lived up to the high expectations of this expensive meat.  My theory is that the fatty marbling that makes Kobe so delicious in a steak is ruined in the grinding; it separates from the muscle tissue and boils off on the griddle.  
"We worked with Jonathan Jones (executive chef at Beaver's) and Chris Shepherd (executive chef at Catalan), experimenting until we got the grind just right." Mazzu explained.  I believe that Beaver's makes one of the best burgers in Houston, and Chris Shepherd is renowned for his knowledge of meat and butchering, so putting together this beefy dream team to help get the patty right is a rather impressive accomplishment.  Jake Mazzu is used to working with the best -- in a previous life, he worked at The Fat Duck, Heston Blumenthal's English temple to molecular gastronomy, and one of the most creative kitchens in the world.  The source of Mazzu's high standards and willingness to go to extremes was coming into focus.
But back to the burger.  The half-pound Akaushi patty was expertly griddled; lightly pink in the middle, with a feisty char top and bottom.  Seasoning was restrained; a bit of salt and pepper were all I could taste.  A slice of mild cheddar melted into the top of the patty, and two thick slices of peppery Applewood-smoked bacon hung over the sides.  The bun was an eggy challah-based foundation; fluffy and yellow, with the bottom absorbing much of the delicious ooze that seeped from the patty.  The mouthfeel of the beef is soft and smooth, a characteristic we've noticed every time we've enjoyed Akaushi.  The seasoning was spot on - a nice bold, beefy swagger accented by just enough salt.  Even with the bold toppings the beefy flavor never plays second fiddle.  This is an example of a Burger Perfect Storm:  Superlative ingredients, expert handling, and creative flair balanced by respect for the classics.  Getting any two of these right typically results in a great burger; rare is the restaurant that can pull off all four.

In short, Mazzu is a grandmaster of the grill; here is a brief video of him seasoning and starting a phalanx of burgers.

He makes it look so easy.  I would no doubt be on the receiving end of third-degree burns if I tried this at home.

Others in our group sampled a variety of burgers, and were patient enough to indulge me and let me photograph them as they came out:

Not surprisingly, once the burgers came out (and were photographed) things fell silent in our group, with the exception of occasional happy sounds coming from the full mouths of the assembled burgerphiles.  
Everyone agreed that The Burger Guys creates a fantastic burger, and that the same meticulous attention to detail shown in the burgers extends to the fries, the shakes, and even the fountain sodas.  They have burgers ranging from creative takes on standards to exotic creations with toppings like shredded papaya, roasted beets, daikon, and housemade kimchee.  Remarkably, all cost $8, which is a bargain considering the quality of the ingredients, nevermind the time that goes into each burger.
So where does The Burger Guys fall in the pantheon of Houston burger joints?  Clearly it's one of the rare places at the summit; it's a worthy competitor to Samba Grille, Beaver's, Hubble & Hudson and Hubcap Grill.  But which one is best?
That is a decision that I cannot make for you.  Each of these establishments serves a truly superlative burger.  We in Houston are lucky to have them to choose from.  My suggestion:  If you can't pick, try 'em all.
The Burger Guys | 12225 Westheimer Road | Houston, Texas
281-497-GUYS | TheBurgerGuys.com

Burger Guys on Urbanspoon

Funnel Cake is the most popular food at the rodeo.
For the past three years, the best of the various foods offered at the Houston Livestock Show are honored with the Gold Buckle Foodie Awards.  Contrary to popular belief, rodeo food isn't just funnel cakes and BBQ, although you'll find plenty of examples of both.
Here are 2011's winners:

Best Breakfast Food:
1st: Stubby’s Cinnamon Rolls’ Big Stone Breakfast Sandwich
2nd: Yoakum Packing Company’s Bacon Blast
3rd: Texas Sized Pizza by the Slice’s grilled breakfast burrito

Best Taco/Burrito:
1st Freebirds World Burrito’s carnitas burrito
2nd Tad’s Bodacious Burrito’s garlic chicken burrito
3rd Texas Pride Grill’s fajita taco

Best Seafood:
1st Berryhill Baja Grill’s crispy shrimp taco
2nd Sudie’s Catfish House’s duo of fried shrimp and oysters

Best Baked Potato:
1st: Harlon’s Bar-B-Que’s super baked potato
2nd: Ranch House Pork Barn’s pulled pork super potato
3rd: Crown Cinnamon Rolls’ Just-Do-It Baked Potato

Best Burger:
1st: Holmes Smokehouse’s angus, bacon, cheese mushroom burger
2nd: Paradise Burger’s ½ lb bacon cheeseburger
3rd: Texas Sized Pizza by the Slice’s cheesy burger bites

Best Food on a Stick:
1st: Granny’s Cheesecake & More’s chocolate covered bananas and strawberries
2nd: Ranch House Burger Barn’s jalapeno & cheese sausage on a stick
3rd: Burton Sausage’s Rodeo K-bob

Best BBQ:
1st: Big Bubba’s Bad BBQ’s pork spare ribs (RCS Carnival Midway)
2nd: Ranch House Pork Barn’s pulled pork bbq sandwich
3rd: Ranch House Burger Barn’s bar-b-que pork ribs

Best Fried Food:
1st: Sweet Cheeks’ deep fried moon pie (RCS Carnival Midway)
2nd: Bear Mountain Bison’s Buffalo chips with The Works
3rd: Texas Sized Pizza by the Slice’s Tornado Potato Fries smothered and covered

Favorite Food:
1st: Granny’s Cheesecake & More’s chocolate dipped cheesecake
2nd: Sill’s Funnel Cake Hause’s funnel cake
3rd: Saltgrass Steakhouse’s ribs and chicken platter

Most Creative:
1st: Sills Funnel Cake Hause’s fried Snickers
2nd: Texas Sized Pizza by the Slice’s Juicy Lucy Cheeseburger
3rd: Bum’s Blue Ribbon Grill’s pulled pork sundae

Best Dessert:
1st: Sills Funnel Cake Hause’s banana split funnel cake
2nd: Stubby’s Cinnamon Rolls’ cinnamon roll with “The Works”
3rd: Cobbler Café’s pecan cobbler with soft serve vanilla ice cream

Best New Flavor:
1st: Zac Brown’s Southern Ground Grub chicken, sausage and shrimp jambalaya
2nd: Crown Cinnamon Rolls’ Lava Flow Smoothie
3rd: Paradise Burger’s fried brownie bites

Best Gourmet:
1st: DGZ Chocolates & Fudge’s Toffarazzi (toffee)
2nd: The Caramel Candy Co.’s pecan caramel
3rd: Kettle Korn of Texas’s ribeye sandwich

(via Delicious Mischief)

My bride's birthday was last week, and I wanted to arrange a birthday dinner for her and the immediate family.  One restaurant immediately came to mind:  Ciao Bello, the upscale but casual family-oriented restaurant in Tanglewood owned by the Vallone family.

One thing I love about Ciao Bello is that their menu has items that appeal to everyone.  If you're a foodie, and want to be adventurous, they've got you covered.  But if you're just interested in a good meal, they do a good job with Italian favorites like chicken parmigiana.
Shortly after we were seated, our waiter came by with a precious amuse-bouche.  A single butternut squash raviolo, glazed with a sage cream reduction.  It's my bride's favorite dish, and for Valentine's weekend, it was served with a twist - the housemade pasta was shaped into a heart.  
I told my bride that the heart shape must have been created especially for her birthday.  She gave me that look that tells me that she's indulging me, but she devoured her raviolo and ordered more as her entree.
We were all pretty hungry, so we ordered a pizza for the table.  We decide on one I'd never sampled, a classic with Italian sausage and peppers.  It came out quickly, and our kids attacked it before I could snap a photo, which explains the missing slices.
We really enjoyed this pizza.  The crust was thin and crispy, with just enough chewiness to keep things interesting.  The sweet peppers, fresh basil, and chunks of Italian sausage combined into a mild, savory combination that was enjoyed by both the adults and kids.  Even Alex loved the pizza; he is our 12-year-old pizza connoisseur who is quick to dismiss any pizza that's too spicy or too bland.
I ordered an appetizer that I'd never tried; pork tenderloin carpaccio.  The presentation was lush; the lightly cooked and seasoned pork was sliced thinly, topped with some mild arugula, shaved aged parmesan,  roma tomatoes, then drizzled with a hint of the Vallone's private labelled olive oil.
The overall impression of this dish was mild but complex.  The dominant flavor was that of the parmesan; the fresh arugula added a nice, subtle crunch, and the tenderloin's gently smoky flavor was more of an undertone.
Next up was the pasta, and I was drawn to something else I'd never sampled here:  Bombolotti Amatriciana.  The short, thick tubes of the mombolotti pasta were prepared al dente, and the signature Vallone Amatriciana sauce was a standout; the fresh tomatoes, bits of basil, and slightly crispy guanciale melded into a rich, tangy delight.  Tony Vallone introduced me to this sauce many years ago the first time I shared a meal with him, and it's one I never tire of.
After this hearty pasta, I had to select a light entree, so my eye was drawn to the seafood.  Sea bass sounded like a good choice, and the waiter assured me that the chef was very happy with the fish that had flown in.
What came out was a firm, flaky sea bass steak, deftly cooked and topped with another Vallone classic, the Barolo wine reduction sauce.  The fish was smooth, buttery, light and flavorful, and the robust tang of the Barolo reduction was a fantastic counterpoint to the creamy flavor of the fish.  On the site was some nicely crunchy garlic-grilled rapini, adding another texture and the rich butter-garlic flavor that was a satisfying complement to the fish.
We weren't surprised to enjoy this special occasion at Ciao Bello; ever since it's opened it has become one of our family's favorites.  Three generations were able to each find something they really enjoyed on the menu, something that's very important for a family event like this birthday dinner.  As a bonus, the resident foodie was able to enjoy some new dishes that he'd not experienced before.  
That's a win in anybody's book.

Ciao Bello - 5161 San Felipe - Houston 77056
713-960-0333 - CiaoBelloHouston.com

Ciao Bello on Urbanspoon

When chef Philippe Schmit left the Hotel Derek's hot bistro moderne, we joined Houston's foodie community in wondering where he would be cooking next.  Buzz about a new restaurant on Post Oak was heard, but the rumored opening date came and went.  But restaurant openings are frequently delayed, so we didn't give up hope.

Last week we were excited to hear that Philippe Restaurant + Lounge had opened next door to Robert del Grande's swank newish RDG, and couldn't wait to give it a shot.  When a client meeting got pushed back, the opportunity arose for lunch on their first day of lunch service.  We were there in a flash, and here are our impressions.

First, the location.  BLVD place on Post Oak.  Literally a stone's throw from RDG.  Valet parking, or self-parking behind the building.  Inside is a very cool lounge area downstairs; the restaurant proper is up a long, dramatic staircase.  The dining room is sleek but warm; the fabrics chosen keep the space from feeling sterile, and floor-to-ceiling windows offer a view of Post Oak and the buildings across the street.

Upon being seated, we were faced with something a bit playful and a bit peculiar.  Paper placemats with clever quotations... from Chef Philippe Schmit.

We perused the brand-new lunch menu, and our first reaction was that it wasn't terribly French.  Salads, pizzas, sandwiches, seafood, pasta, and meats were all represented.  We zeroed in on their bacon cheeseburger, served on a house-made brioche bun.  Ordering it medium rare wasn't a problem.  We also wanted to sample a salad, and the Texas caesar, with BBQ-brushed skirt steak was a tempting, if non-French, choice.

The burger was a thick hand-formed patty, served on the aforementioned brioche bun, which had been griddled perhaps a touch too enthusiastically.  It was smothered in melted and re-congealed cheese, then crowned with some nicely peppered, thick-cut bacon.  It was dressed with thinly-sliced housemade pickles and butter lettuce.

There is much to like here - good quality beef, a deft touch with the seasonings, and a nice, dense housemade bun.  The patty was medium-rare, as requested.

But there were some missteps.  The beef, while tasty, was perhaps too high of grade; it was only minimally oozy, which is rare (no pun intended) in a medium-rare burger.  And the cheese was obviously melted at one point, but had congealed into a firm blanket by the time the burger reached our table.  Regardless of the missteps, this was a solid burger; tasty and featuring top quality ingredients.  We can't expect perfection out of a brand-new kitchen, and we expect it to become even better over time.

Next up was the salad, and it really grabbed our attention.  It was served on one of the longest plates we've ever seen; it literally spanned beyond my shoulders, and the salad was artfully arranged upon it.

The bits of romaine lettuce were drizzled with the mild caesar dressing, as were the croutons, tomatos, and bits of what we found out to be grilled cactus.  Our take on this dish was that it was lovely, but not particularly flavorful.  The extremely tender skirt steak tasted as if it had been grilled, not barbecued, and the expected smokiness was nowhere to be found.  The caesar dressing was also mild, and we admit to being perplexed by the inclusion of tomatoes on a caesar salad.  To be clear, it was a very tasty salad, just not what we were expecting from the description on the menu.

We saw hints of greatness on the plate at Philippe, and we hope the kitchen hits its stride in the coming months.  Considering the ample talent of the executive chef, we don't expect a long wait.

Philippe Restaurant + Bar, 1800 Post Oak Blvd, 713-439-1000.  
philippehouston.com

Philippe Restaurant and Lounge on Urbanspoon

We were excited to see that Mint.com, the popular financial site, has launched a new public site where spending habits can be researched.  Called data.mint.com , the site is an amazing place to analyze spending habits.  (The data is an aggregate of Mint.com's user base, and doesn't reveal any personal information.)

From this data we discovered how much Houstonians spend a popular restaurants.  The amounts below are averages charges recorded by Mint users during 2010:


Hugo's - $98.51
Back Street Cafe - $83.06
El Tiempo - $79.26
Pappas Seafood House - $70.84
Churrascos - $70.53
Max's Wine Dive - $62.61
Maggiano's - $59.24
Gravitas - $58.59
Fung's Kitchen - $55.06
McCormick & Schmick's - $56.87
Carrabba's - $55.37
Saltgrass Steak House - $54.91
London Sizzler - $51.01
Pappadeaux - $46.46
Benjy's - $44.90
Miyako - $44.31
La Vista - $43.70
El Tiempo Cantina - $43.72
Macaroni Grill - $42.01
Red Lobster - $41.15
Cheesecake Factory - $40.68
Outback - $40.48
Benihana - $40.04
P.F. Chang's - $39.70
Texas Roadhouse - $39.64
Pappadeaux - $39.55
Grand Luxe Cafe - $38.62

The full list can be seen on Mint.

It's an exciting time to live in the Woodlands.  Every month brings two or three interesting new places to eat.  However, as a burger lover, 2010 has been more down than up - we still lament the closing of Tesar's, home of one of the best burgers that we've ever had the pleasure of enjoying.  We've sampled some very good burgers out here, but none have yet climbed that lofty perch that is left vacant by the closing of Tesar's.

But we keep looking.

Ever since we inadvertently crashed the grand opening party, we've been big fans of Hubbell & Hudson.  Their flagship Waterway location is a gourmet grocery store, and upscale bistro, and a highly-regarded cooking school - a combination that warms the heart of any food lover.  We were excited to hear that they were planning a second location - where would it be?  Downtown Houston?  The Galleria?

Hubbell & Hudson Kitchen

It turns out that H & H's second location was to be right here in the Woodlands, across on Research Blvd just east of Gosling.  Called Hubbel & Hudson Kitchen, it's a tightly edited version of the original concept.  The expansive gourmet market has been focused on the gourmet items you might want to pick up on your way home from work, and the bistro has been pared back into a counter-service fast-casual concept.

What you see as you walk in

We were very impressed by the concept, and how well it should fit into the modern busy lifestyle.  Stopping in on the way home is much more convenient than pulling into HEB's Woodlands Market (or Hubbell & Hudson on the Waterway), yet you still have a store full of high quality items from which to shop.

The market area has a carefully edited selection of high-quality meats, fresh vegetables, cheeses, beer and wine, dry goods, sauces, snacks, and even kitchen tools.  If you're heading out for a picnic, this may be the perfect quick stop.

Grocery aisles at the back of the store

So is it safe to conclude that Hubbell & Hudson has created an upscale convenience store for the gourmet shopper?  Yes, but that's only part of the draw.

Dining is the second part of the H & H Kitchen equation.  Along the right side of the store is the meat counter, and at the end of it is the order point for the fast casual restaurant.  The menu should look familiar to those who have visited Hubbell & Hudson, although it's been slightly streamlined.  The selection of sandwiches and design-your-own steaks are still there, as are the reason we're visiting - the variety of burgers.

Our first burger was the Bistro Burger.  It's 10 ounces of house-ground sirloin, topped with white cheddar cheese, thick-cut peppered bacon, finely shredded lettuce, crunchy dill pickle slices and and grilled onions.  It's served on a soft housemade bun, with a side of fries.

I enjoyed this burger.  The over-half-pound patty was cooked slightly on the well side of medium, but there was still a bit of ooze going on.  The smooth, mild cheese was complemented by the peppery bacon flavor, and the pickles added a nice crunch.  This burger clearly reflects its quality ingredients, and I'd order it again.  But I wasn't blown away.

There was one small problem - the side of fries were nowhere to be seen.  When I picked up the burger, the counterman said that he'd bring them out when they were ready.  But after five minutes, they hadn't appeared.  I didn't want the burger to get cold, so I ate it anyway.  On the way out I asked the guy at the counter if they'd forgotten about our fries, and he apologized and asked if I wanted them to go.  The idea of re-warming fries at home isn't appealing to me, so I passed.

At this point I was a bit disappointed with my experience here; the burger was good, but not great, and the mix-up on the fries was a blemish on what seemed to be a very smooth operation.

Apparently my search for the next great burger would continue elsewhere.  Oh, the sacrifices I make for you guys.

On the way out the door, their greeter, a charming woman named Miriam, asked me if I had enjoyed my visit.  I told her about the missing fries, and she asked me to wait while she got the manager.

Ricardo, the manager on duty, apologized profusely for their mistake, and insisted on refunding the entire cost of my meal, asking that I give them another try.  (I hadn't identified myself at this point, so I assume that any customer would get the same treatment.)  I told him I was impressed by how he handled the situation, and that I looked forward to giving them another chance.

The opportunity came sooner rather than later.

My bride and I were in need of a quick bite the next day, so we decided to return.  The place was hopping, and we ordered and were lucky to snare a table.  In short order our food arrived.  This time I tried a different burger, the bleu cheese burger.  Eight ounces of chopped sirloin topped with melted bleu cheese, baby spinach in place of lettuce, and sauteed onions.  I splurged an extra dollar to substitute their Parmesan truffle fries for the regular french fries.  I also asked for it to be cooked medium rare.

What came out looked gorgeous - the thick, hand-formed patty had an aggressive char, and the bleu cheese had been melted and slightly carmelized.  The sauteed onions were totally different than the grilled onions on my previous burger, and the baby spinach was an interesting idea that I was anxious to sample.

I assembled the burger, and bit into it.  Wow.  This was a whole 'nother level.  The confident beefy swagger was front and center; not surprising, since the cooked patty was about an inch thick.  The tang of the bleu cheese and the bite of the sauteed onions sang a sharp yet controlled acidic tone that paired perfectly with the earthiness of the beef.  The housemade bun was slightly sweet, and was a solid foundation for this superlative burger.  The gorgeous patty was indeed cooked medium rare, and the center was warm, pink, and oozing with enough juices that made me go through three napkins before I was done.

Bingo.  My new favorite burger in the Woodlands.  By a longshot.  Even more amazing is the price: $8 with fries.  That's a steal for this sort of high-quality burger; a steakhouse could sell this for double the price and still be offering a good value.

Ever since the demise of Tesar's, I lamented the fact that there wasn't a burger out here that I truly craved, and could rank among the very top in Houston.  But Hubbell & Hudson has produced a superlative product that stands with Hubcap Grill, Beaver's, and Samba as the very best burgers to be had in Houston.

If you love burgers, you've gotta check them out.

Hubbell & Hudson Kitchen - 4526 Research Forest - The Woodlands - 281-203-5650

Hubbell & Hudson Kitchen on Urbanspoon

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