You know that great book you've got on the shelf that you've been meaning to read? Or that film in your Netflix queue that you've meant to watch for months, but you keep putting off? If you write a food blog, the same thing happens with restaurants. I've got several that I've been meaning to try, but a variety of excuses keeps popping up. "I'm on the wrong side of town." "My bride won't like it." "James Beard Award nominee Katharine Shilcutt just reviewed it, and I'll never get a table."
Here's what I've been avoiding. Yes, I'm an idiot. |
Be still, my beating heart. |
But wait... there's more. |
Direct from the fryer's duck fat to you |
Superlative ingredients prepared by an expert chef |
In short, Mazzu is a grandmaster of the grill; here is a brief video of him seasoning and starting a phalanx of burgers.
He makes it look so easy. I would no doubt be on the receiving end of third-degree burns if I tried this at home.
Others in our group sampled a variety of burgers, and were patient enough to indulge me and let me photograph them as they came out:
If you've been following this blog, you might have noticed that I have a thing for cheeseburgers. I travel far and wide trying to find the best burgers around, trying to visit all the new or undiscovered spots that could be hiding the next great burger.
But a Houston burger lover has to keep his scale calibrated. For a long time, discussion of the best burger in Houston revolved around two places: Lankford Grocery, and the subject of today's post, Christian's Totem. (They've since opened a second location and rebranded themselves as Christian's Tailgate, but I use the older name to refer to the original I-10 location.)
After a 15-minute wait, I was still sans-burger, so I walked up to the counter to see how much longer it would be. "Five more minutes" I was told, and my burger appeared shortly thereafter.
The burger featured a slightly thickish hand-formed patty, griddled and topped with melting American cheese, just how I remembered it. But closer inspection revealed that it was missing was Christian's near-perfect ooze, an ominous sign. The patty was only slightly moist, and the cheese was only slightly melty.
Biting into the burger was a bit disappointment
The beef's flavor was completely unremarkable; the bold rich beefy flavor that's a hallmark of the best burgers was absent. The beef had been cooked more than a bit too enthusiastically; it was uniformly grey all the way through. And the half-melted cheese congealed quickly, and had an unremarkable flavor and texture. The generic bun, which had been griddled to a golden brown on my last visit, was only slightly warmed, and rather mushy.
Saving graces were the nicely fresh vegetables; the snap of the lettuce demonstrated just how fresh it was. But that wasn't enough to save this iconic burger.
If I had been served this burger at Whataburger, I'd have been pleasantly surprised. But this was Christian's, named by many (myself included) among the best burgers in Houston.
This burger simply didn't measure up. It is with great sadness that I remove Christian's from the list of Houston's Best Burgers.
Five years ago, Christian's served the benchmark Houston burger. But the current version was a mere shadow of what had been. At the same time, upstarts like Hubcap Grill, Beaver's Icehouse, and Samba Grille have advanced the burger game considerably. Heck, even the out-of-town SmashBurger chain now has a superior product.
The best burger in Houston is a moving target, and sadly Christian's is moving in the wrong direction. This is the second legendary Houston burger joint that disappointed me, and I hope this trend reverses very soon.
When chef Philippe Schmit left the Hotel Derek's hot bistro moderne, we joined Houston's foodie community in wondering where he would be cooking next. Buzz about a new restaurant on Post Oak was heard, but the rumored opening date came and went. But restaurant openings are frequently delayed, so we didn't give up hope.
Last week we were excited to hear that Philippe Restaurant + Lounge had opened next door to Robert del Grande's swank newish RDG, and couldn't wait to give it a shot. When a client meeting got pushed back, the opportunity arose for lunch on their first day of lunch service. We were there in a flash, and here are our impressions.
First, the location. BLVD place on Post Oak. Literally a stone's throw from RDG. Valet parking, or self-parking behind the building. Inside is a very cool lounge area downstairs; the restaurant proper is up a long, dramatic staircase. The dining room is sleek but warm; the fabrics chosen keep the space from feeling sterile, and floor-to-ceiling windows offer a view of Post Oak and the buildings across the street.
Upon being seated, we were faced with something a bit playful and a bit peculiar. Paper placemats with clever quotations... from Chef Philippe Schmit.
We perused the brand-new lunch menu, and our first reaction was that it wasn't terribly French. Salads, pizzas, sandwiches, seafood, pasta, and meats were all represented. We zeroed in on their bacon cheeseburger, served on a house-made brioche bun. Ordering it medium rare wasn't a problem. We also wanted to sample a salad, and the Texas caesar, with BBQ-brushed skirt steak was a tempting, if non-French, choice.
The burger was a thick hand-formed patty, served on the aforementioned brioche bun, which had been griddled perhaps a touch too enthusiastically. It was smothered in melted and re-congealed cheese, then crowned with some nicely peppered, thick-cut bacon. It was dressed with thinly-sliced housemade pickles and butter lettuce.
There is much to like here - good quality beef, a deft touch with the seasonings, and a nice, dense housemade bun. The patty was medium-rare, as requested.
But there were some missteps. The beef, while tasty, was perhaps too high of grade; it was only minimally oozy, which is rare (no pun intended) in a medium-rare burger. And the cheese was obviously melted at one point, but had congealed into a firm blanket by the time the burger reached our table. Regardless of the missteps, this was a solid burger; tasty and featuring top quality ingredients. We can't expect perfection out of a brand-new kitchen, and we expect it to become even better over time.
Next up was the salad, and it really grabbed our attention. It was served on one of the longest plates we've ever seen; it literally spanned beyond my shoulders, and the salad was artfully arranged upon it.
The bits of romaine lettuce were drizzled with the mild caesar dressing, as were the croutons, tomatos, and bits of what we found out to be grilled cactus. Our take on this dish was that it was lovely, but not particularly flavorful. The extremely tender skirt steak tasted as if it had been grilled, not barbecued, and the expected smokiness was nowhere to be found. The caesar dressing was also mild, and we admit to being perplexed by the inclusion of tomatoes on a caesar salad. To be clear, it was a very tasty salad, just not what we were expecting from the description on the menu.
We saw hints of greatness on the plate at Philippe, and we hope the kitchen hits its stride in the coming months. Considering the ample talent of the executive chef, we don't expect a long wait.
Philippe Restaurant + Bar, 1800 Post Oak Blvd, 713-439-1000.
philippehouston.com
Back in the 80's, I lived in Austin, and there was a chain burger location I really enjoyed. Called Carl's Jr., it was a west-coast burger chain that had recently expanded into Texas. Their burgers were good; considerably better than the big fast-food chains, and even going so far to give local favorite What-a-burger a run for your money. Sadly, the economic downturn caused Carl's Jr. to pull out of Texas entirely.
(That's the Western Bacon Cheeseburger pictured above. When I first tried one over two decades ago, I thought they had hit upon perhaps the perfect cheeseburger formula: a charbroiled beef patty, American cheese, bacon, crisp onion rings, and BBQ sauce on a toasted bun.)
It's an exciting time to live in the Woodlands. Every month brings two or three interesting new places to eat. However, as a burger lover, 2010 has been more down than up - we still lament the closing of Tesar's, home of one of the best burgers that we've ever had the pleasure of enjoying. We've sampled some very good burgers out here, but none have yet climbed that lofty perch that is left vacant by the closing of Tesar's.
But we keep looking.
Ever since we inadvertently crashed the grand opening party, we've been big fans of Hubbell & Hudson. Their flagship Waterway location is a gourmet grocery store, and upscale bistro, and a highly-regarded cooking school - a combination that warms the heart of any food lover. We were excited to hear that they were planning a second location - where would it be? Downtown Houston? The Galleria?
Hubbell & Hudson Kitchen |
It turns out that H & H's second location was to be right here in the Woodlands, across on Research Blvd just east of Gosling. Called Hubbel & Hudson Kitchen, it's a tightly edited version of the original concept. The expansive gourmet market has been focused on the gourmet items you might want to pick up on your way home from work, and the bistro has been pared back into a counter-service fast-casual concept.
What you see as you walk in |
We were very impressed by the concept, and how well it should fit into the modern busy lifestyle. Stopping in on the way home is much more convenient than pulling into HEB's Woodlands Market (or Hubbell & Hudson on the Waterway), yet you still have a store full of high quality items from which to shop.
The market area has a carefully edited selection of high-quality meats, fresh vegetables, cheeses, beer and wine, dry goods, sauces, snacks, and even kitchen tools. If you're heading out for a picnic, this may be the perfect quick stop.
Grocery aisles at the back of the store |
So is it safe to conclude that Hubbell & Hudson has created an upscale convenience store for the gourmet shopper? Yes, but that's only part of the draw.
Dining is the second part of the H & H Kitchen equation. Along the right side of the store is the meat counter, and at the end of it is the order point for the fast casual restaurant. The menu should look familiar to those who have visited Hubbell & Hudson, although it's been slightly streamlined. The selection of sandwiches and design-your-own steaks are still there, as are the reason we're visiting - the variety of burgers.
Our first burger was the Bistro Burger. It's 10 ounces of house-ground sirloin, topped with white cheddar cheese, thick-cut peppered bacon, finely shredded lettuce, crunchy dill pickle slices and and grilled onions. It's served on a soft housemade bun, with a side of fries.
I enjoyed this burger. The over-half-pound patty was cooked slightly on the well side of medium, but there was still a bit of ooze going on. The smooth, mild cheese was complemented by the peppery bacon flavor, and the pickles added a nice crunch. This burger clearly reflects its quality ingredients, and I'd order it again. But I wasn't blown away.
There was one small problem - the side of fries were nowhere to be seen. When I picked up the burger, the counterman said that he'd bring them out when they were ready. But after five minutes, they hadn't appeared. I didn't want the burger to get cold, so I ate it anyway. On the way out I asked the guy at the counter if they'd forgotten about our fries, and he apologized and asked if I wanted them to go. The idea of re-warming fries at home isn't appealing to me, so I passed.
At this point I was a bit disappointed with my experience here; the burger was good, but not great, and the mix-up on the fries was a blemish on what seemed to be a very smooth operation.
Apparently my search for the next great burger would continue elsewhere. Oh, the sacrifices I make for you guys.
On the way out the door, their greeter, a charming woman named Miriam, asked me if I had enjoyed my visit. I told her about the missing fries, and she asked me to wait while she got the manager.
Ricardo, the manager on duty, apologized profusely for their mistake, and insisted on refunding the entire cost of my meal, asking that I give them another try. (I hadn't identified myself at this point, so I assume that any customer would get the same treatment.) I told him I was impressed by how he handled the situation, and that I looked forward to giving them another chance.
The opportunity came sooner rather than later.
My bride and I were in need of a quick bite the next day, so we decided to return. The place was hopping, and we ordered and were lucky to snare a table. In short order our food arrived. This time I tried a different burger, the bleu cheese burger. Eight ounces of chopped sirloin topped with melted bleu cheese, baby spinach in place of lettuce, and sauteed onions. I splurged an extra dollar to substitute their Parmesan truffle fries for the regular french fries. I also asked for it to be cooked medium rare.
What came out looked gorgeous - the thick, hand-formed patty had an aggressive char, and the bleu cheese had been melted and slightly carmelized. The sauteed onions were totally different than the grilled onions on my previous burger, and the baby spinach was an interesting idea that I was anxious to sample.
I assembled the burger, and bit into it. Wow. This was a whole 'nother level. The confident beefy swagger was front and center; not surprising, since the cooked patty was about an inch thick. The tang of the bleu cheese and the bite of the sauteed onions sang a sharp yet controlled acidic tone that paired perfectly with the earthiness of the beef. The housemade bun was slightly sweet, and was a solid foundation for this superlative burger. The gorgeous patty was indeed cooked medium rare, and the center was warm, pink, and oozing with enough juices that made me go through three napkins before I was done.
Bingo. My new favorite burger in the Woodlands. By a longshot. Even more amazing is the price: $8 with fries. That's a steal for this sort of high-quality burger; a steakhouse could sell this for double the price and still be offering a good value.
Ever since the demise of Tesar's, I lamented the fact that there wasn't a burger out here that I truly craved, and could rank among the very top in Houston. But Hubbell & Hudson has produced a superlative product that stands with Hubcap Grill, Beaver's, and Samba as the very best burgers to be had in Houston.
If you love burgers, you've gotta check them out.
Hubbell & Hudson Kitchen - 4526 Research Forest - The Woodlands - 281-203-5650
My first rule of dining is to order what a restaurant specializes in, or is known for. That rule rarely steers me wrong, so I tend to follow it almost every time. But recently I broke this rule.
Samba Grille is a new restaurant downtown, one I've visited before. I really enjoyed their churrascaria; as a devoted carnivore, a variety of freshly grilled meats is something hard to pass up. They also have some tempting seafood dishes, many of which I've yet to sample.
But I was on a quest. One of the partners in Samba Grille is Nathan Ketcham, who happens to be a friend of mine. Nathan and I used to eat lunch together frequently when he lived in the Woodlands, often at the late, lamented Tesar's Modern Steakhouse, which was home of one of the state's great hamburgers.
Nathan shares my passion for burgers, and he knows a good one from a bad one. Now that Nathan is helming his own restaurant, I had to sample his hamburger. Of course, his place specializes in the cuisine of South America, so my expectations weren't too high... but I figured Nathan wouldn't disappoint me.
So on a recent Friday, I picked up my lovely bride at her downtown office, and we drove over to Samba for lunch. Parking was a snap (often an issue downtown) and we entered and sat down. After a brief perusal of the menu, we both ordered burgers. While we waited, we snacked on Samba's addictive cheese rolls. In short order, the burger appeared.
Samba's burger has a strong Latin flair. It's made from grilled sirloin, no doubt trimmed from the steaks they butcher in-house. The beef is blanketed with buttery Spanish machego cheese. To this they add crisp, smoky bacon, avocado, lettuce, tomatoes, and aji aioli, a spicy garlic sauce made with Peruvian peppers. The burger was built on a soft, slightly sweet bun. I'm a bit of a burger purist, so I vetoed the avocado, but I decided to try the aioli.
Biting into it, I was immediately impressed by the smooth mouthfeel and the balance of the burger. Front and center was the flavor of the meat - a robust beefy swagger that really hit the spot. I've eaten some very good burgers lately, but none have nailed the beefy flavor quite like Samba has done. The counterpoint of the buttery machengo cheese added smoothness, and the heat from the aji aioli popped in a moment later, adding a spicy Latin counterpoint to the flavor profile. Not only has Samba created a great burger, they've done so with South American flair.
The choice of ingredients was masterful. The bacon's flavor was subtle, and the slight crunch was a nice contrast to the smooth feel of the beef and cheese. The difference between good and great is in the details, and it's obvious to me that Nathan and Chef Cesar Rodriguez spent the time to sweat the details.
This is the burger I've been waiting for since Tesar's shut down. Thank you, Nathan.
I came to Samba expecting to enjoy a good burger, but instead I found one of Houston's very best. If you love burgers, go check 'em out.
Travel + Leisure Magazine did their annual survey of America's Favorite Cities, and H-Town was on the list. Visitors and Houston residents agreed... Houston has the best burgers in the country.
Double Cheeseburger at Hubcap Grill - One of Houston's Best Burgers |
Houston was also in the Top Five for Affordable Hotels, Business Hotels, BBQ, and Luxury Stores.
Also worth a look - a handy tool to compare cities. We had to check to see how Houston compared to Dallas. (Spoiler: Very well, even with Fort Worth thrown into Dallas's corner.) Houston also compared favorably overall with such other Sun Belt cities as Los Angeles, Miami and Atlanta.
Why? Houston has some incredible home-grown burger joints, like Hubcap Grill, Beaver's Ice House, Zelko Bistro, Christian's Totem, and Beck's Prime. The proprietors of these places raise the bar for burgers in Houston, and other restaurants follow suit by upping their game. Hungry folks all over Houston are the winners.
Beaver Burger at Beaver's Ice House - One of Houston's Best Burgers |
It wasn't all glory, though. Houston was rated among the worst in terms of Summer, Public Transportation and Pedestrian Friendliness, and Weather.
We recommend dealing with these less pleasant facts the way that every life-long Houstonian does: Get in your air-conditioned car, and go grab a burger.
For many chefs, owning a restaurant is the ultimate dream. Extending one's vision beyond the plate is a big step, but expertise in the kitchen doesn't necessarily translate into success at the front of the house. We're always excited to see a chef take this big step, but in many cases, we have to wonder if it is a wise one.
Enter Jaime Zelko. She'd won numerous awards for her work as Executive Chef at Bistro Lancaster, and her cuisine drew high praise from patrons. When she announced that she was opening her own place in the Heights, we were looking forward to seeing what would come forth from this creative mind.
She teamed up with Jeb Stuart, who spent five years as Chef at the nearby Shade restaurant, but wanted to step away from the kitchen and focus on the world of wine. She also tapped into family expertise, in the form of her father and uncle, partners in the 50-year-old Zelko Brothers Cabinet and Fixture Company. A fortuitous convergence, since a rather rough 1920's bungalow on 11th Street was selected as the location for the bistro.
Of course, you'd never know that now. The bungalow has been converted into a welcoming space, with the kitchen nestled in the rear, and the main room split by a dividing wall, creating a cozy dining room and a funky bar, complete with mason jar lights. Historic black-and-white photography decorates the walls, and the space is very successful, conveying a down-home comfort with an upscale twist.
Coming in at the start of lunch, we snagged a table, and were greeted by the friendly staff. We immediately noticed a couple of touches we really liked: An arrangement of fresh rosemary on every table, and water service that includes a bottle left at the table. Shortly thereafter we were delivered a unique bread service: Torn pieces of sweet, herby bread, something we rarely find in restaurants. We had to hold ourselves back to keep from devouring every bite.
We'd heard great things about the Boss Burger at Zelko Bistro, so it wasn't a hard choice, although several of the menu's varied comfort food offerings were also calling our names. We ordered the Boss, and when asked how we'd like it cooked, we left it at Jaime's discretion. (We've learned not to second-guess the chef in this situation.)
What arrived was a very impressive-looking half-pound burger, worthy of its name. Served on a thick, airy housemade bun, the patty was obviously hand-formed and sporting an aggressive char. It was topped with a thick slice of cheddar cheese, grilled onions, and shredded iceberg lettuce. Pickles were on the side, and the tomatoes were omitted at my request.
Biting into it revealed a perfectly cooked burger, slightly on the rare side of medium. The ooze factor was well represented; I found myself using the napkin after every bite. The flavor of the beef was rich and mild, the cheddar was smooth, and the caramelized onions added a hint of sweeness. The only flaw was that it was perhaps too mild; a bit more of a bold, beefy flavor would not have been a bad thing. But make no mistake - this is an excellent burger, and one that we would be happy to enjoy again. We've added it to our list (on the sidebar at the right) of Houston's Best Burgers.
We walked away from Zelko Bistro thinking that Jaime and Jeb had a hit on their hands. They've nailed the concept of a comfortable but upscale neighborhood place, and put it in a neighborhood that craves this sort of comfort food. Combine the smart positioning with the beautiful room and Chef Zelko's deft touch in the kitchen, and we expect Heights residents to be enjoying the Zelko Bistro for a very long time.
Zelko Bistro - 705 E 11th Street - Houston - 77008 - 713-880-8691 - ZelkoBistro.com
Burgers are hot in Houston, and another California-based chain is trying to grab their share of the market. The Counter® Custom Built Burgers, a premium burger concept known for offering more than 300,000 possible combinations, will open first Texas location in Houston on September 27, 2010.
Their announcement:
The Counter brings mouthwatering, premium burgers and “The Counter Culture” community to hungry diners in Houston. Nearly 80 percent of The Counter’s customers choose the “Build Your Own Burger” option and get creative with hundreds of thousands of possible variations. Upon arrival, guests receive a clipboard to create a custom burger or choose from Signature Burgers, Signature Burgers in a Bowl, Sandwiches and Starters.
Guests can select from three sizes of proteins – one-third, two-third and one-pound – made from all natural, humanely raised and handled fresh Angus beef that is ground daily, grilled chicken, turkey or house-made veggie and an array of 12 cheeses, 33 toppings, 21 unique sauces and four types of buns. Alternatively, guests can choose a bun-free Burger in a Bowl. Sample toppings and sauces include: dill pickle chips, roasted green chiles, corn and black bean salsa, fried egg, honey cured bacon, basil pesto and chipotle aioli. Additionally, The Counter in Houston will offer ice cream shakes, malts and floats, as well as a diverse selection of handcrafted beer and wine.
The Counter in Houston features 4,000 square feet of indoor/outdoor space that seats up to 160 burger-hungry guests indoors and on the spacious, sunlit patio. A mix of classic rock, hip-hop, jazz and top hits provides the soundtrack within the sleek and industrial-designed restaurant. The artwork on the walls captures the uniqueness of Houston life and culture by showcasing photography by Gary Copeland. All artwork displayed at the restaurant will be available for sale.
The Counter Custom Built Burgers in Houston is located in 4601 Washington Avenue, Houston, Texas 77007. Hours are Sunday – Wednesday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Thursday – Saturday from 11 a.m. to midnight. The restaurant can be reached directly at (713) 966-6123.
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Fox Charlotte interviewed Matt, of the Counter:
We've heard good things about The Counter from our west coast friends, and we look forward to sampling the menu at this new spot.
Update: More burgers added. You know what to do.
OK, Burger fans. We've got an adventure for you. Together with Foodspotting.com, we have put together the Houston Burger Challenge, a list of the twelve burgers that we feel every Houstonian who loves burgers must experience.
The challenge takes place primarily inside the loop, but for the adventurous, there are treks far OTL into the hinterlands of the Woodlands and Tomball.
How do you participate? Sign up on Foodspotting.com. Then travel to each location, and photograph your burger. Log the event on Foodspotting to share your experience with burger lovers everywhere. (If you've got an iPhone, there's a cool Foodspotting app that makes it even easier.)
Lots of folks say they're serious about burgers. Are you up to the challenge?
Houston Burger Challenge (Foodspotting.com)