After a 17-Month Renovation Post-Hurricane Ike, Houston's Beloved Culinary Gem Once Again Welcomes Guests on February 16, 2010
Beginning on February 16, 2010 Brennan's will be open for dinner from 5:45 p.m. to 10 p.m. daily.
On Monday, February 22, 2010 Brennan's will begin serving lunch weekdays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
As of February 27, 2010 brunch will be offered every Saturday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and Brennan's legendary Sunday Jazz Brunch will kick off on February 28, 2010 from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Forty-three years ago (incidentally, about the same time the New Orleans Saints began playing in the NFL), the Brennan family of New Orleans embarked on a journey to bring its renowned culture of Southern hospitality to the people of Houston and opened the doors of Brennan's of Houston, one of America's most beloved dining destinations and the forerunner in serving Texas Creole Cuisine.
In September 2009, a two-alarm fire that occurred during Hurricane Ike engulfed the historic building in flames. After 17 months of renovation, Brennan's of Houston once again invites its friends, old and new, to gather around its tables on Tuesday, February 16, 2010 to celebrate its re-opening. "We didn't burn down, we burned up," says co-owner Alex Brennan-Martin. "We are thrilled that we were able to save more than 75 percent of the original structure and can't wait to welcome our guests back to our historic home. We're looking forward to another 43 years of creating lasting memories for our guests."
Led by Commander's Palace Family of Restaurants co-owners Alex Brennan-Martin, his sister, Ti Adelaide Martin, and their cousin, Lally Brennan, Brennan's has survived floods, hurricanes, and economic downturns, has taken a direct hit by a tornado, and has been engulfed by a major fire. Throughout its existence, Brennan's has weathered each of those storms by remaining focused on the family's heritage and staying passionate about its signature Texas Creole cuisine and creating memories for its patrons. To that end, Brennan's 17-month restoration reflects family's soulful belief that tradition truly matters, including the replacement of a 40-year-old oak tree which was destroyed by the fire, with new twin oaks, so that Brennan's guests will continue to be shaded on the restaurant's welcoming courtyard.
The Road to the Reopening
Long before the Brennan's put their name on the building in 1967, it was a Houston landmark. Designed by architect John F. Staub to house his architectural offices downstairs and the original home of the Houston Junior League upstairs, the building's façade was intended to evoke an image of the Vieux Carré, representing an almost identical replication of Don José Faurie's mansion in New Orleans that houses an unaffiliated branch of the Brennan family's eponymous restaurant that is still there today. Brennan's of Houston's building is recognized as one of the city's most beautiful structures, having inspired the neighboring development of an area that is often touted as Houston's French Quarter.
The Johnson Studio of Atlanta - in partnership with Houston-based companies Studio RED, Linbeck Construction, and Pin Oak Interests - lovingly restored the original John F. Staub 1930 structure.
"As we began the clean-up of our beloved old home after the fire, we uncovered many of the original design features that were covered in the 1966 remodeling of the building by our family," says Brennan-Martin.
"Our goal was always to preserve the historic structure but we also wanted bring it 'back to the future,' as it were."
Though the interior of the building had to be gutted and refurbished, including a new roof, floors, and windows, the most iconic building elements were maintained. The Terms of Endearment Room, the restaurant's columns, its vaulted ceilings in the second floor ballroom, and the popular chef's table and dining room have been restored.
Ninety percent of the exterior façade was maintained, and some of the original design elements from the 1930 building were rediscovered. The design exposed the original brick in much of the building, as well as opened up many of the arched windows that had been shuttered in the original family renovations, creating a brand new dining room on the entrance corner (which is now called the Staub Room, after the famous architect of the building) in addition to The Courtyard Bar, a new addition that overlooks the restaurant's original courtyard fountain.
Above the Courtyard Bar is the Solarium and Little Room - new dining rooms that take their inspiration from rooms in Bayou Bend (a historic home, also built by Staub, that is now part of the Houston Museum of Fine Arts) - featuring aerial views of the Courtyard Bar and wood floors painted with a deep chocolate brown and white checkerboard pattern.
Upstairs, guests will find recreated versions of the Wine Room and Ballroom (now called The Garden Room), both of which have retained much of the Old South feel and flair for which Brennan's has long been known. Downstairs, Brennan's famous Kitchen Table remains the centerpiece of the kitchen. Each of the rooms offers a distinctive décor that harkens back to some of the Brennan family's original dining rooms, though all are executed in a contemporary manner, further reinforcing the restaurant's new, "back to the future" atmosphere.
In the Kitchen: Executive Chef Danny Trace
Brennan's of Houston evokes the Crescent City in not only its architectural details, but also its cuisine, which is both inventive and traditional, and its culture of hospitality that radiates from the inside.
The Brennan's kitchen has explored the vast spectrum of Creole's evolution in the "Bayou City". Cultural influences in South Texas and an abundance of fresh produce unique to the region have provided more than a few opportunities for delicious Texas variations on time-honored Louisiana themes.
Danny Trace was appointed executive chef in November 2009. An integral, ten-year veteran of the Commander's Palace Family of Restaurants, Trace most recently served as executive chef of the group's newest outpost, Commander's Palace & the On The Rocks Bar at HarborWalk Village in Destin, Fla. and was previously at the helm of Café Adelaide in New Orleans.
At Brennan's, Trace has artfully balanced his menu with modern Creole cooking and Brennan's signature, ever-evolving Texas Creole cuisine. In so doing, he digs into his well of knowledge with the playful and spirit-influenced cuisine he honed at Café Adelaide in New Orleans, and the "Floribbean" style he created in Destin.
"Guests will still be able to enjoy their longtime favorites but I hope they'll try some of our new things, too," says Chef Trace. "I've been so fortunate to have rare opportunities come my way and I feel as though it has all led up to this."
Brennan's of Houston's menu, bursting with passion for local and regional product, offers a distinctive take on Texas Creole fare.
Soups and gumbos, such as the famed Turtle Soup ($8.50), are true to Brennan's heritage,
with reinvigorated classics like:
Bourbon Molasses Lacquered Bobwhite Quail with Foie Gras Apple Stuffing, Tasso Braised Sprouts,
Sunny Side Up Quail Egg and Basil Hayden Bourbon ($36)
Blue Crab Stuffed Texas Flounder with Herb Roasted Oyster Mushrooms, Melted Leeks, Triple Cream Brie and Chardonnay Fumet ($39)
Veal Chop Tchoupitoulas with Herb Roasted Sweet Potatoes, Caramelized Shallots, Swiss Chard and Oyster Mushrooms with Honey Green Peppercorn Glaze ($39)
Sample appetizers:
Blue Crab and Leek Bread Pudding with Blue Crab Saffron Cream, Herb Roasted Oyster Mushrooms and Atchafalaya Basin Choupique Caviar ($12)
Dirty Duck and Foie Gras Sliders with Chicory Coffee Braised Duck Debris, Mirliton Pickles and Foie Gras Fondue with Sweet Potato Chips ($13)
Desserts evoke traditional Louisiana style, which is to say they are rich, velvety creations of pure indulgence. Banana's Foster (a Brennan family invention, $7) leads a list so tempting, diners are wise to plan their preceding courses accordingly.
Classic New Orleans cocktails from Courtyard Bar and wine selections from the restaurant's award-winning selection - some of which was salvaged from the pre-fire inventory - will complement the dining experience.
About Brennan's of Houston
The Brennan's of Houston kitchen has explored the vast spectrum of Creole's evolution in the "Bayou City."
Cultural influences in South Texas and an abundance of fresh produce unique to the region have provided ample opportunities for delicious Texas variations on time-honored Louisiana themes. Along the way, the passionate Brennan's team has received accolades establishing the restaurant as one of the finest in the city. Awards such as Exxon Mobil's Four-Star designation in 2000, and a nod from restaurant reporter John Mariani in 1997, who called former Executive Chef and General Manager Carl Walker "one of America's most influential chefs", are just two such accomplishments Brennan's counts on its list of accolades. Brennan's has also been regularly rated among Houston's "Best" and "Most Popular" restaurants in the Zagat Survey.
BRENNAN'S OF HOUSTON
3300 Smith Street
Houston, TX 77006
(713) 522-9711
www.Facebook.com/BrennansofHouston
(Source - Brennan's Press Release)
Recently, Texas Monthly (@TexasMonthly) asked the Twitterverse who they should put on the cover.
Our suggestion? Jonathan Jones (aka @PapaBeav), chef and partner at Beaver's Ice House.
C'mon, Texas Monthly. Do it. (And no, that isn't a real Texas Monthly cover. It's a parody. For now.)
Why? Because Jonathan Jones's kitchen is turning out perhaps the best example of real Texas cuisine in the state. Fresh gulf seafood, expertly prepared. Burgers that are among the best anywhere. Excellent BBQ. Mac and Cheese that's considered by many to be the best in town. Their bar even initiated the cocktail revival that's sweeping across Houston. Heck, Beaver's was our Restaurant of the Year.
Houston's rock star chef, Randy Rucker (of Tenacity Dining, Rainbow Lodge and Laidback Manor fame) has announced his latest venture.
Bootsie's Heritage Cafe is scheduled to open this February in Tomball, at 112 Commerce St. Details are scarce, but we expect Rucker to wow local foodies with his creative takes on local seafood and superbly crafted comfort food.
Particularly exciting are rumors of the Mother Rucker burger. We're looking forward to sampling the hamburger that measures up to Rucker's exactling standards.
It's the end of the year, and time for us to recognize the people, places, and things that impressed us the most during the previous year.
Opening of the Year
Haven. Chef Randy Evans has been without a kitchen since Ike did a number on Brennan's, and rumors of his environmentally responsible Modern Texas Cuisine project were buzzing around the foodie community. Unlike many hotly anticipated restaurants, Haven opened with all cylinders firing, delighting patrons with its tightly focused, well executed menu.
Honorable Mentions: Tesar's, Ciao Bello, Chez Roux, Stella Sola
Event of the Year
Tenacity Dinners. Culinary magician and Houston rock star chef Randy Rucker (@greensandbeans) doesn't need a fixed location to practice his art. So he's organized periodic underground dining events, assisted by some of H-Town's top culinary talent. Foodies flock to the events, expecting to be wowed by Rucker's creations, and they walk way with their expectations exceeded. The best measure of their success: Every Tenacity dinner sells out minutes after it's announced, but you can read and drool on Rucker's blog.
Honorable Mentions: Fried Chicken Throwdown, Pork Belly Throwdown, Blogger Trip to the Inn at Dos Brisas
Foodie Accessory of the Year
Apple iPhone. The iPhone lets a foodie roam all around the Houston area and still keep his finger on the pulse of the food community. Apps like Yelp and UrbanSpoon give insight into previously unknown-to-you restaurants, and the map application's traffic display keeps you on schedule. The good enough camera lets you record your dining experience in excruciating detail, so you can share it with the world with a Twitter or blog client. You can even keep tabs on your bank account.
Honorable Mentions: Thermal immersion circulator, bottle of Tums, Randy Rucker's e-mail address
Burger of the Year
Tie: Tesar's Magic and Beaver's Burger. New York and Chicago can fight over who has the best pizza (it's NYC) but Houston stands alone as the city with the best burgers in the country. And while legendary burger joints like Christian's Totem continue to turn out an excellent product, two local chefs have raised the bar considerably in the burger world.
John Tesar has put together a superlative burger. Tesar's Burger Bar (located inside his Woodlands restaurant) offers several different burgers, but the purist Magic is our favorite. It's the iconic bacon cheeseburger taken to its ultimate conclusion with top quality ingredients and meticulous execution.
Johnathan Jones (@PapaBeav) takes a slightly different route at Beaver's, with equally impressive results. Ground sirloin is masterfully combined with brisket and ground bacon, and combines this unique patty with carefully selected components to produce a burger unlike anything we've tasted.
Which is better? We can't say. But we can say that a Houston burger lover needs to try them both.
Honorable Mentions: Christian's Totem, Farrago, Beck's Prime, Jasper's
Foodie of the Year
Katherine Shilcutt. Making the transition from blogger to the mainstream media isn't easy, but Shilcutt did so with style and verve. Her arrival at the Houston Press shook the cobwebs off the food writing at that alternative paper, and her Food Fight articles stimulate discussion (sometimes heated) throughout the foodie community. Her great twitter comments (@she_eats) complete the triple threat.
Honorable Mentions: Jenny Wang, Misha G., J.C. Reid, Jodie Eisenhardt
Critic of the Year
Alison Cook. The explosion of new media and food blogs brought many new voices sharing their opinions about dining, but one voice stands above all the rest: Alison Cook, the Chronicle's food critic. Her flowing prose takes the reader to the restaurant without leaving home, and her insightful analysis delves below the surface and educates the reader as well as entertains. Unlike many traditional journalists, Cook has embraced both twitter (@alisoncook) and blogging, and her Cook's Tour blog is a must follow for any Houston foodie.
Honorable Mentions: Robb Walsh, Ken Hoffman, Greg Morago
Restaurateur of the Year
Tony Vallone. Year after year, Houston's legendary restaurateur keeps his flagship restaurant Tony's at the forefront of Houston's culinary scene, and now he has another out-of-the-park hit with Ciao Bello, bringing authentic Italian cuisine to a packed house since opening day. In an industry where being around five years makes you and old timer, Vallone has been doing this for forty years, and is still at the top of his game. He's even on Twitter (@TonyVallone).
Honorable Mentions: Monica Pope, Bryan Caswell, Mark Cox, Alex Brennan-Martin
Chef of the Year
Plinio Sandalio. While the executive chefs get all the attention, we feel that pastry chef Plinio Sandalio is doing the most creative work at any restaurant in Houston. Patrons are visiting his restaurant, Textile, just to experience Plinio's remarkable dessert tastings, which stretch the definition of dessert beyond what's being done anywhere else in town. His blog always makes us hungry, and he's active on twitter (@psandalio) as well.
Honorable Mentions: John Tesar, Randy Rucker, Jason Gould, Jonathan Jones
Restaurant of the Year
Beaver's Ice House. We loved the concept of a local upscale BBQ joint, and thought the initial incarnation of Beaver's was off to a promising start. But it took the addition of local star Jonathan Jones (@PapaBeav) at the helm to fully realize the possibilities. Beaver's delivers great BBQ, innovative Gulf Coast seafood, and stellar burgers in a setting that would be off-the-charts cool no matter where it was located. Beaver's has become more than a restaurant; it's the unofficial hangout of the Houston foodie community, and a great place to run into one of Houston's top chefs when he's not under his toque.
Honorable Mentions: Tony's, Indika, Tesar's, Feast
Hail Caesar! My Table Magazine and the Food and Beverage Managers Association of Houston presented the 25th annual Caesar Salad competition on October 2. As always, there were a huge number of participants from some of the most talented kitchens in the city.
In the Creative Category, congratulations are in order for Chef Jonathan Jones (aka @PapaBeav) of Beaver's.
Further congratulations to Mockingbird Bistro for another win in the traditional Caesar salad category.
Ambience International Grill in the Woodlands appears to have closed. We're sorry to see them go.
Maggie Galehouse at the Houston Chronicle has posted her take on Battle Ownership, the Tycer vs. Gould controversy at Gravitas.
Chefs' rift grows into a chasm
The story elaborates on the promises made, the SBA loan, and the attempted buyout.
Galehouse confirms the issue that we feel is at the heart of the controversy:
But Tycer felt low-balled. He said Gould's investors were "looking for someone frantic who wanted to be pulled out from underneath a boulder."
He counteroffered, and Gould's investors pulled out.
But as recently as July, he said, Tycer told him he still saw him as a partner.
That changed on Aug. 7 when Gould got a call from Tycer's wife. Annika Tycer, a management consultant who helps her husband with the business side of food, had been involved in the buyout negotiations. She told Gould that he was no longer considered a partner.
Our summary:
Something smells funny. If Tycer didn't want to be bought out, why did he enter into negotiations?
Here's the timeline as we see it:
Tycer negotiates with Gould.
Gould can't raise enough money in this economic climate.
Tycer feels lowballed, but still considers Gould a partner.
Then Tycer's wife comes in and tell him that he's not considered a partner.
Gould feels betrayed, and quits.
Maybe that's just business as usual in a Tycer establishment. But we think it stinks. Ethical firms don't promise a key employee equity and then yank it away because they get mad.
We stand by our position to avoid Tycer and his establishments; we can't support a restaurant with these sorts of business practices.
An anonymous commenter to this blog provided a link to Tycer's version of the story. Mike Ricetti, a contributor to the Examiner.com web site, apparently received a call from Tycer, who wanted to set the record straight.
It's a complex tale. Read it here.
The story provides many details: SBA loans, Gould's status as a non-citizen, Tycer's version of why Gould wants to leave, some negotiations with Gould, Tycer, and Tycer's McKinsey consultant wife, who is described as the "business head" of the couple.
The big question still remains: Why does Gould still not have his equity in Gravitas? Tycer's answer to that question was that he had "never been shown anything" that indicates Gould's citizenship status has changed.
UPDATE: An anonymous commenter posted a link to Tycer's version of the story.
Cleverley Stone broke a story on her radio show over the weekend that will probably infuriate a lot of Houston foodies.
We just received confirmation that the popular Galleria-area middle-eastern restaurant, Mint Cafe, will be closing its doors at the end of the month. Eagle-eyed readers spotted a lockout notice for unpaid rent, and apparently the owners have had a spell of bad luck and are calling it quits.