Update: As of Dec 16, 2014, guests are reporting a two-hour wait for tables during the week. Combine that with 45 minutes to cook a deep-dish pizza, and you're not going to be eating in a hurry. Caveat diner.
One of the culinary world's eternal battles is between the cities of New York and Chicago, and the topic is pizza. In one corner you have the svelte New York-style pizza, thin and flexible, topped only with sauce and cheese, and perhaps a meat or two. In the other corner is the burlier Chicago-style, a thin, pastry crust piled high with cheese, lots of toppings, and finished with a chunky tomato sauce. It's a classic battle, the scrappy wisecracking dancer vs the heavy, no-nonsense bruiser, both fighting for bragging rights and a place in your belly.
So on our recent visit, we ordered a small deep-dish, and selected the Meaty Legend,
one of Gino's East's most celebrated pies, and one that we'd sampled years ago in Chicago.
These thick pizzas don't cook fast; our server estimated 45 minutes to an hour for it to cook. Since we ordered a small, it cooked a bit faster, but expect a wait when you order one of these pizzas made to order.
Ours appeared in about twenty minutes, and the server wrestled out a slice.
Today we're exited to bring you a pre-opening preview from Kim, the woman behind the terrific Chewandreview instagram account. Kim checks out the new Black Walnut Cafe, located atop the Galaxy FBO facility at the Lone Star Executive airport in Conroe. Official opening to the public is today.
I was so excited to attend a preview service for the new Black Walnut location at the Lone Star Executive Airport in the new GalaxyFBO hangar. I know what most of y'all are thinking. You're full of preconceived notions about the Conroe Airport (and Conroe in general). I've heard things like, "That Black Walnut won't be as good," "The menu is going to be very limited…all they will have is sandwiches and they'll just focus on catering." Well, I'd like to proudly tell you that you all are wrong. Sure, you have to drive by the old dump that closed in 1996 to get to this little gem, but just pretend those big piles of grass covered trash are rolling hills. The location is on the 3rd floor of the new hangar. I was really impressed when I first walked in. There are a ton of windows, so there's a lot of natural lighting, but it still has that "Black Walnut" feel with the belt-driven fans and dark wood accents. It's much more roomy and open than The Woodlands location, and I really like that. They retained the traditional Black Walnut counter-service style, but thankfully, the layout is so much better. Oh, and the outdoor seating. I was so excited to see that. Once again, not many places in Conroe where you can sit outside and enjoy a meal (I don't go west to the lake very often). Anyway…
For this preview, we were each given menus, each of which had different choices. I decided on the Cordon Bleu Benedict, coffee, and fresh squeezed orange juice. We got our drinks and chose a table by one of the window. I loved the view. Aside from the lake, this place has the best view in Conroe. It faces one of the runways, so as you eat, you can watch planes take off and land. Pretty fun. And I don't care for planes. I can't tell a Cessna from spaceship.
My benedict was excellent. The egg was cooked perfectly and had a rich yellow yolk. The hollandaise had a hint of cayenne which I liked. The chicken was flavorful, a little greasy, but still very good. The asparagus was cooked nicely. Nothing needed salt (it seems everywhere I've gone lately the food has needed salt), and I enjoyed every bite. I had a bite of the hubs pancake, and it was good, too. It was thin and kind of eggy, so if you like the thick fluffy pancakes, you'll be disappointed. This one was perfect for me, and they serve it with real maple syrup.
I spoke with someone whom I assume was the manager and he told me they will have a full menu at the Conroe location (take that, doubters). They removed a couple of menu items and will use mahi mahi instead of tuna and will also use mahi in the fish tacos instead of tilapia. And to satisfy the country palate, they added fried chicken and chicken fried steak. Personally, I can't wait to try it and see how it stacks up to other places. Dollars to donuts the gravy will be homemade. Right now, Black Walnut will be open from 7am (or was it 7:30)-3pm starting on January 22 with intentions of opening in the evenings a little later. They will also be adding beer and wine, so I'm looking forward to sitting on the patio, enjoying a nice glass of wine, and watching planes take off.
Overall, the quality of the Conroe location was above what I have come to expect when I visit Black Walnut. I hope they maintain this standard. I can see myself dividing my time between there and The Red Brick Tavern. I'm so glad Conroe has another locally-owned place to have a nice meal. Should you drive from The Bubble to go there? Probably not since there's a Black Walnut IN the bubble, but it would be worth driving down to check it out at least once. If you live in Conroe or the immediate area, it should be added to your list of go-to places. You won't be disappointed.
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About The Author
Kim is a self-proclaimed foodie, and has lived in Montgomery County for the majority of her life. After a multi-year hiatus from writing restaurant reviews, she's recently begun combining her love of food photography with the written word. Right now, you can follow Chewandreview on Instagram, but look for her new blog to launch in February 2014.
We'd read cryptic press releases about a new restaurant being developed in the Woodlands, and wondered what was behind all the mystery. Called Zunum, it's a new concept being launched on Research Forest within the city of Shenandoah. The team behind Zunum isn't new to the restaurant business, owning Russo's Pizzeria.
The concept is a unique one. Zunum is a place for families, catering to both children and adults while not expecting either to compromise. For the adults, Zunum offers them a place to "relax and enjoy a gourmet meal in an adult environment", while the kids can "play, be active, and behave as kids in a safe environment".
That's the promise. Short of attaching a Chuck E. Cheese to Tony's, how would you pull this off? On a drizzly Tuesday, we went to find out.
Zunum's execution is tasteful, and shows a clear vision. The front of the house is a modern, airy restaurant, featuring dishes aimed at an adult palate. It's a bright, attractive space, featuring modern decor and muted earth tones.
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| The dining room at Zunum |
Behind a glass wall are multiple supervised play areas designed for kids of different ages. Cleverly avoiding the one-size-fits-none issue, the first play area features soft surface, active toys, and a bright, fun environment for toddlers and early school-aged kids. The area is themed with creatively imagined creatures, each with its own back story; I expect that at least one will appeal to every young child.
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| Little kids' play area at Zunum |
The bigger kids (up to age 12) have their own space, with an active climbing area and a zone featuring multiple state-of-the-art game consoles. There's also a private party room complete with an interactive projection game system sure to fascinate both kids and adults.
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| Big kids' play area at Zunum |
Parents can keep an eye on the little darlings via a panoramic window between the play areas and the dining room; thankfully there's a door that should keep the roar to a minimum.
Unlike other places that cater to kids, Zunum has a wide variety of inventive dishes that won't make the grown-ups think they're in the penalty box. Beer and wine are available. From seafood to salads, panini, burgers, crepes and pastas, there are dishes to appeal to almost anyone. There is, of course, a dedicated kids' menu with the usual suspects and also a variety of healthier options.
On their recent soft opening, we sampled several of their dishes, and management graciously picked up the tab. Since the restaurant isn't officially open, this isn't a full review, but rather a preview of what's to be offered when the doors open.
We started with a couple of appetizers. Our favorite was Zunum's unique spin on the traditional Italian bruschetta. The crunchy Italian bread was topped with a generous portion of marinated tomatoes and shaved parmesan cheese, but the flavor profile was more southwestern than Italian, a surprise that we found delightful.
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| Bruschetta at Zunum |
Next up was Zunum's tuna tartare. Chunks of fresh tuna were bound in a creamy dill sauce with avocado, with wasabi drizzles on the plate to spice things up.
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| Tuna Tartare at Zunum |
We then ventured into the entrees. Zunum's version of parmesan crusted chicken caught us by surprise; instead of breaded chicken with the traditional marinara, the grilled chicken breast was topped with artichokes in a creamy mushroom sauce. It was served with chunks of potato and gently grilled asparagus.
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| Parmesan Crusted Chicken at Zunum |
We couldn't avoid a the epic, 1 pound Zunum Burger that was featured on the menu, even though it contains two or three times the amount of meat we usually prefer in a burger. Up for the challenge, we put in our order, and this behemoth appeared:
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| Zunum Burger |
Yes, folks, that's a 1 pound burger patty parked on a bun the size of a personal pizza. We'd forgotten to mention cheese, so a quick spin back into the kitchen resulted in a lovely glaze of melty, high-quality American cheese. The burger was so huge that we cut it in half for maneuverability, and we were impressed by the meat's perfect medium preparation.
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| Inside the Zunum Burger |
Other than its enormous proportion, the burger was exactly what we hope for in a burger; nicely handled and seasoned beef, good quality cheese nicely melted, and fresh, crisp veggies. The only flaw was a bottom bun that simply wasn't up to the task of supporting a pound of juicy beef; we wonder if Mrs. Baird's will consider titanium reinforcements. Maybe not.
All in all, we're intrigued by Zunum's unique concept. We believe that a restaurant that offers to delight both kids and parents has a bright future in the Woodlands, and we look forward to the grand opening and seeing how crowds react to this unique restaurant.
Zunum | 1620 Research Forest Drive | The Woodlands, Texas 77381 | 281-419-5400
There's a new player on the fiercely competitive Houston burger scene, and it's one that's worth checking out. So we trekked down from the Woodlands to Holcombe Blvd. to find out more.
Called JerryBuilt Burgers, it's a new fast casual chain that does things a bit differently than other burger joints. We were invited to for a preview dinner a couple of days before the grand opening, and here are our impressions.
First, the building. Entering the lofty, airy space you'd never guess that the building was previously an abandoned WaMu bank that was never completed.
The interior designers did a remarkable job, and thoughtful touches are everywhere. On one side of the dining room is a large mural featuring numerous Houston landmarks.
There is even a unique feature - an automated handwashing station in the dining room. Alex, our 13-year-old, actually washed his hands without being cajoled, and he pronounced the automated machine "cool". We concur.
But you don't read this blog for our architectural critiques - you're interested in the food. Jerry Built isn't trying to be a health food restaurant, but there is a focus on quality ingredients. They're proudly displayed on the wall, right beside the eye-catching mural.
From Niman Ranch beef and Buddy's Natural Chicken to organic veggies to Blue Bell ice cream and (be still my heart) Three Brothers Bakery buns, the focus on quality ingredients impressive. It's part of an overall attention to detail that's rare anywhere in the restaurant business, much less in the fast casual sector.
All these quality ingredients are great, but unless they're combined with skill and care, they're wasted. Fortunately, that wasn't a problem. After we ordered at the counter from the well-trained staff, our order appeared very quickly, and attractively packaged.
Looking inside the well-designed recyclable packaging, we found a truly gorgeous burger, char-grilled over an open flame with just the right amount of melty cheese, and fresh, crunchy veggies.
The result is a stunningly attractive burger, artfully arranged between the freshly sliced Three Brothers Bakery bun. We enjoyed this burger, but we're reserving final comments on its flavor until we can sample a few more examples. Oh, the sacrifices we make for our readers.
We're looking forward to returning to JerryBuilt Burgers after they've opened to the public to sample more of their offerings, and to enjoy the stylish, comfortable environment they have created. With the attention to detail that was already displayed, we predicted great success for this new, home-grown burger brand.
(We were happy to learn that they've already begun construction on a second location that's located in the Woodlands. They're aiming for a March opening.)
JerryBuilt Homegrown Burgers | 3501 W Holcombe Blvd | Houston, TX 77025
713-664-2874 | jerrybuiltburgers.com
Lately Houston has been the recipient of some notable Austin imports. On the moderate end, the insanely popular Torchy's Tacos opened their first Houston location to rave reports from diners. Today we were fortunate enough to take a look at an even more exciting Austin import.
Uchi, the modern Japanese restaurant building a national reputation for its innovative takes on sushi and other Japanese dishes, has opened a Houston outpost. Located in the old Felix Mexican Restaurant location on inner Westheimer, the team from Uchi has converted a revered house of Tex-Mex into a lovely and serene Japanese dining experience. How does the innovative cuisine of chef Tyson Cole survive the trip down Highway 290? We wanted to find out.
We were invited to sample several of their dishes at a recent media dinner, and while this isn't a formal review, we wanted to share our impressions.
Approaching the building, we noticed how the new building doesn't eradicate the old architecture of Felix's, but rather pays homage to it. The iconic curved windows remain, and their shape is echoed in the striking new entryway. The result is urban and modern, but with respect for the past, a theme that was echoed throughout the evening.
Entering the restaurant, we were startled at the transformation. Gone was the Felix experience, and in its place was a stylishly rustic Japanese setting, with clever details everywhere we looked. One of our favorites was a large communal table, handmade in Austin and lovingly assembled.
With this much attention and respect paid to the setting, we couldn't wait to sample Tyson Cole's food. Before being served, we browsed the traditional preparation area, and took in the mouth-watering displays of fresh fish and other ingredients, all under the watchful eye of Uchi's kitchen staff.
Watching these masters wield their tako hiki and santoku was like watching surgeons at work. The speed and precision evident in their work was remarkable.
For this media dinner, small plates were passed by the attentive but unobtrusive staff, who were happy to answer any questions. Chef Cole circulated from time to time, delivering food himself and anxious to hear feedback from patrons.
First up was a cooked dish - bacon sen. Consisting of grilled pork belly, green onion, fish caramel, and bonito flakes, the result was a very restrained take on pork belly. Instead of the often overwhelming richness from this fatty cut of pork, the dish had a solid pork flavor, still rich but balanced by the sweetness of the caramel and the subtle crunch of the bonito flakes.
Next was our first bite of Chef Cole's sushi. Called machi cure, it begins with smoked baby yellowtail, presented on a small plank of edible yucca crisp, asian pear, marcona almond, and accented with garlic brittle. This dish was genius. The essence of the sea brought forth by the impeccably fresh yellowtail was firm without being chewy, and offset by the crunch of the yucca and the subtle snap of the almond. The flavors danced on the tongue - the rich tuna, the sharp garlic, the tang of the pear, the earthiness of the almond. The result was spectacular, and speaks to Cole's ability to balance flavor and texture while not compromising on the jewel-like presentation.
Another highlight was the playfully named Jar Jar Duck. Presented in a lever-sealed Mason jar, opening this clever package released a waft of rosemary-infused smoky duck essence. Digging into the jar revealed thinly sliced sweet kumquats, pickled endives, thinly sliced bits of roast duck, and crunchy duck cracklins. Again, the attention to detail is remarkable: The duck is layered so that the milder white meat is below the richer dark meat, so the heavy, flavorful juices marinate the breast meat. This dish evokes the cleverness of Grant Achatz at his best while leaving behind the fussiness that turns food into performance art. Again, it's about balance, and Tyson Cole pulls it off masterfully.
We sampled several other dishes that we thoroughly enjoyed, with interesting ingredients like flash-fried kale, toasted milk, and espelette, a mild French pepper not typically associated with Japanese cooking. This medling of ingredients brings a distinctively modern feel to Cole's Japanese cuisine. The respect for the past is evident, but the vision is through a distinctively modern lens. We're excited about Uchi, and we look forward to seeing what other delights Tyson Cole and his talented staff have in store.
(Other views on the event, from Almost Veggie Houston, CultureMap, Dr. Ricky and Hank on Food.)
Uchi | 904 Westheimer | Houston 77006 | 713-522-4808 | uchihouston.com
