We love a great pizza. We've been known to discuss great pizzas at length with friends. But compared to Jeff Varasano, we are complete and total dilettantes... because Jeff is serious about pizza, and is willing to share his opinions.
We don't know if his recipe tastes as amazing as he says, but we are in awe of the amount of detail that he puts into it.
If anyone in Houston successfully duplicates his work, we'd love to try it.
We make no secret that we think Tesars is one of the best restaurants in the Houston area, and that it stands head and shoulders above its competitors in the Woodlands. But we have to confess a problem: We are so taken with Tesars fantastic burgers that it's tough for us to sample other offerings on the menu. But that changed last Sunday.
We'd heard that Tesars was serving brunch, and we were very curious to see what Executive Chefs Jeramie Robison and Austin Simmons would offer for this popular meal. So we made our reservations (always a good idea) and headed down.
We were seated, and relaxed enjoying the view and their wonderful iced tea. Shortly after, our appetizer appeared.
We're generally not big fans of cool soup, but Chef Robison has put a very interesting twist on the classic Spanish Gazpacho. Centered in the sea of moderately spicy tomato/onion/garlic soup was an island of tangy housemade ceviche - shrimp, fish, several different mild peppers, avocado, and onion. The flavors danced around each other, each being highlighted while still working together to become greater than the sum of their parts. This is a superb Gazpacho, and the one by which we'll be measuring others we sample.
After the refreshing soup, we were ready for more traditional brunch fare. We started south of the border, moving from the Catalan coast to the border towns of Mexico, and delved into the Tesars version of Huevos Rancheros, the staple of the Tex-Mex breakfast.
The presentation was one we'd not seen before. A base consisting of quadrants of of black beans, pico de gallo, roasted pepper salsa, and guacamole (all housemade) was covered by a crispy corn tortilla, and topped with two fried eggs. The combination was a study in balance; the rich, earthy flavor of the beans contrasted beautifully with the sharp, fresh taste of the pico, the slow, smoky heat of the salsa, and the smooth, creamy guacamole. The composition of the dish reflected the kind of care that we've become accustomed to at Tesars; clearly these two young chefs are sweating the details.
Next up was a traditional American breakfast - eggs, breakfast meats, grits, potatoes and toast. On paper, it sounded similar to the full American breakfast that you can get anywhere. But what showed up pretty much sums up what's so special about Tesars:
The artfully composed plate included smoked ham, two different types of smoked link sausage, applewood smoked bacon, perfectly prepared eggs, chopped breakfast potatoes cooked with a melange of peppers, coarse-ground cheese grits, and grainy whole-wheat bread. It was plenty of food for two people, and each component was considerably more interested than we dared expect.
It's as if the chefs at Tesars view every item on the plate as a composer views instruments in a symphony - they must stand alone and yet work together, playing off each other to create a piece that the audience will remember long after the performance. We've enjoyed many American breakfasts, but we can't recall when we've devoured one where we were singularly impressed by each component on the plate. We left very happy and very full, and can't wait to try the brunch here again.
Foodies will get together whenever there's something interesting to eat. But one group of foodies is getting together, and the reason is far more noble.
The reason? Helping in the fight against Multiple Sclerosis. In this case, to raise money, and ride across Texas in the 2010 MS 150.
Sunny Bogden (@sunkneelion)
Melanie Campbell (@mctello)
Gus Tello (@gtello)
Matt Cuddihy (@mattcuddihy)
Jenn Molholt (@treelight)
Plinio Sandalio (@psandalio)
Erika Mandeville (@hungrysmalls)
Sheri Davidson (@sheridavidson)
Jonathan Platon (@bondbuddha)
Greg Lopp (@greglopp)
Sharon Stinson (@sharonmoves)
Kris Hayes (@krishayes)
Sara Proffitt (@sproffitt)
Renae Virata
Carlo Soli
The team has its own Twitter presence: @teamliverstrong
Want to support the team? Visit the team web site and make your donation. It's for a great cause.
Perhaps the best thing a foodie can do is to discover a new restaurant, and explore its menu. But how many can we sample each week? The short answer - fewer than we'd like.
The Houston Press has a solution - its Menu of Menus Extravaganza. This annual event (now going on its 8th year) showcases over thirty restaurants, and also features wine, beer, and liquor tastings.
Participating restaurants include Laurenzo’s, Fins Seafood, Sushi & Grill, Tinto’s Spanish Restaurant & Wine Bar, Italiano’s Restaurant, Textile, Kahn’s Deli, Ooh La La Dessert Bakery, Bodegas, Taco Shop, Rice Thai Kitchen, Ritter’s Frozen Custard, Harry’s Restaurant, Shipley Do-Nuts, Auntie Chang’s Dumpling House, Kaneyama Japanese, Tampico Seafood & Cocina Mexicana, Thai Bistro Restaurant, Lucky’s Pub, Cork Soakers, The Teahouse Tapioca & Tea, My Dee Dee’s Pie Shoppe & Deli, tasti D-Lite, Alamo Drafthouse Theater, Sushi King, Anothai Cuisine, Last Concert Café, Nelore Churrascaria, Danton’s Gulf Coast Seafood Kitchen, Hearsay Gastro Lounge, Rudyard’s Pub, Two Saints Restaurant, Tila’s Restaurante & Bar, Georgia’s Farm to Market, Mumbai Spice, Dosey Doe Coffee House, Fruituzy, Fadi’s Mediterranean Grill, Simply Splendid, Kim Son, Blue Nile Ethiopian Cuisine and House of Blues.
As you'd expect, there will be entertainment. It turns out that it's one of our favorite local bands, Faye Robinson & The Mid City Players. We've seen 'em several times at Sammy's, and they put on a wonderful show, always to a packed house.
Where? West Ave, at 2920 Kirby.
The event is Tuesday, April 13th, 2010, from 7pm to 10pm for general admission guests. VIPs get in an hour earlier.
Get your tickets direct from the Houston Press. All proceeds benefit Discovery Green and The Center for Hearing and Speech.
The event is sponsored by LikeMe.Net, Momentum Audi, Momentum Volkswagen, Georgia’s Farm to Market, West Ave, Flowers by Nino, Admiral Linen, Nauset Concepts and 104.1 KRBE.
See y'all there!
One of our ongoing quests is to find a good independent Italian restaurant in the Woodlands - a place that can be our "go to" spot when we're in the mood for something from Italy.
We heard rumors of a new authentic Italian place, but couldn't imagine where it could be. Google Maps led us to the location, a nondescript strip center on I-45's northbound side, just north of Rayford/Sawdust. We've passed this center a thousand times, and have never stopped in.
We turned in, and found Capri. It's a small place, featuring pasta, pizza, "& more". We entered, and were immediately taken by the charm of the small room. A third of it is devoted to the open kitchen. Not the artfully staged cooking theater found in some chains, but a real working kitchen out there in plain sight, a good sign of nothing to hide. The rest of the room is nicely decorated with Italian art, and the overall feel is very homey - a thousand miles away from the slick corporate Italian spots that dominate the Woodlands. The interior was fairly dark, which created a nice atmosphere; we certainly didn't feel like we were in a strip center.
We were seated, and the young waitress brought us menus. A quick perusal revealed dishes that reflected a Tuscan slant to Italian cuisine, with a variety of pastas, meats, and vegetables.
The owner, Barbara Coglianese, appeared at our table, welcoming us. When we showed interest in her restaurant and what she was doing, we got the whole story. Barbara and her husband Maurizio moved to the States from Italy several years ago, and they opened this restaurant in January. Maurizio travels in his business, and Barbara runs the place most of the time, with her family and a few dedicated staff members. Barbara is a charming woman with a ready smile whose passion for cooking comes through when she talks about her food. We put ourselves in her hands, and looked forward to what her kitchen would create.
My entree was pollo scaloppine with a light lemony sauce. The chicken was pounded flat and very tender, and the sauce was smooth, slightly sweet and delightfully citrusy. Served on the side was a wonderful zucchini dish; thinly sliced, delicately sauteed in olive oil, very simple but superb.
We also sampled gnocchi alfredo, with the small potato dumplings amidst a smooth, creamy, and lushly buttery alfredo sauce, dusted with some mild Parmesan cheese. The flavors melded very well, making for a satisfying dish.
The common theme through the dishes we sampled was a sense of handcrafted food, created with skill and pride. None of the recipes were hugely elaborate, but the care that was taken shined through, and the result was outstanding.
Prices are very good - lunch entrees are under $10, and dinner is generally in the low teens. Steaks are affordable (generally under $20) and kids meals are $4.
In the past, we have bemoaned the lack of a good independent Italian restaurant in the Woodlands. We're very glad that Barbara and Maurizio have opened Capri, bringing authentic Italian food to an area served mainly by big chains.
Buon Appetito!
Capri Pasta Pizza & More
25602 IH-45 North
Suite 101
Spring, Texas 77386
(281) 298-0055
capri-pasta.com
We received an interesting tip this week about a new place that had opened on Kuykendahl, a couple of miles south of the Woodlands. Called South Street Dining, it's an ambitious new restaurant located in a strip center in Tomball.
We drove down yesterday for lunch, and almost missed the place. From the outside, it's unremarkable, although there is a pleasant deck overlooking the parking lot. But once you open the heavy wooden doors, you're in for a surprise.
Inside you'll find a gorgeous, upscale dining room, finished in woods and natural stone, decorated in soft hues of taupe and tan, elegantly lit and very inviting. A slightly more casual bar area is to the left, with flat screens showing various sporting events. It's a very inviting interior, and considerably more elaborate than we expected.
It was also cold. We decided to lunch on the patio, enjoying the gorgeous Spring day in Texas. We visited for a late lunch, and there were only a handful of patrons scattered throughout the establishment.
Iced tea appeared promptly, and our waiter offered to bring us some bread. The bread service was simple but quite good, warmed french and herb bread, served with two flavored butters - honey cinnamon and chipotle. The bread was very good, and the attention to detail boded well for the upcoming meal.
Now on to the entree. We scanned the lunch menu, and noticed a variety of burgers, sandwiches, and some more ambitious beef, chicken, and fish entrees. Our eyes locked on to the chicken-fried steak, offered with some interesting sides, including garlic mashed potatoes and fried corn fritters. Very southern. Having found one of our very favorite chicken-fried steaks at Tomball's Goodson's Cafe, we ordered.
After a brief wait, the dish appeared. It was plated tall; the mashed potatoes served as an easel for the chicken-fried steak, and the dish was garnished with parsley and an odd, blue corn tortilla chip. Artistic, but somewhat awkward.
We cut into the chicken-fried steak, and applied a bit of the brown gravy. The steak was flavorful and not terribly overcooked, but the breading was a bit soft. The housemade brown gravy had a lush bacon flavor and a rich fatty texture; it was miles ahead of the white gravy served with most CFS plates. The size of the steak was good but not overwhelming; a nice choice for lunch, when taking leftovers is often not an option. This wasn't the best CFS we've ever tasted (or even in the top ten) but it was enjoyable nonetheless.
Less successful were the mashed potatoes. They were whipped, smooth, creamy, but nearly flavorless. We'd venture a guess that they came from a box; there was no sign of any skin or chunks of potato in the smooth presentation.
The corn fritters (also served with a garnish of corn chips) were a bit better; soft yet slightly gritty, with a gentle corn flavor coming through the fried surface. We kept finding ourselves drawn back to them as the meal progressed.
All in all, we enjoyed our visit to South Street. Clearly, the owners are planning something ambitious here. The interior is beautiful, the service is friendly, and the food is generally good. We don't think the kitchen currently lives up to the promise of the marketing or the decor, but we still found the experience to be quite enjoyable.
We'd recommend the spot for either a date or an outing with friends, and we plan to return in the future.
South Street Dining
24914 Kuykendahl Road
Tomball, TX 77375-3381
(281) 255-3141
Bessilyn Piazza's sandtart cookies are out of this world—or soon will be. Recently approved to hitch a ride on the Space Shuttle Discovery (scheduled for an April 5 launch), Mrs. Piazza's cookies are headed to the International Space Station.
The melt-in-your-mouth cookies have been enjoyed by patrons of Bessilyn's restaurant, The Italian Cafe in Seabrook, for over 20 years. But when one customer requested a batch of cookies for special delivery, NASA called in the order. The customer is Colonel Timothy J. Creamer, Flight Engineer and NASA Science Officer, who is currently living and working aboard the International Space Station. Following standard procedure for crew requests, NASA contacted Bessilyn and obtained a batch of cookies for microbiological testing. One week later, the space-bound "to go" order was approved.
"My feet haven't touched the ground since I received the news," says Bessilyn. "This is something I never dreamed would happen. I'm still on cloud nine."
The original sandtart recipe hails from Bessilyn's late mother, who baked the Italian wedding-style cookies for years for The Italian Cafe. As demand for the cookies grew by the dozen, Bessilyn relieved her mother of the rolling pin and rolled up her own sleeves. She's been up to her elbows in flour ever since.
"When these cookies board the Space Shuttle in April, it will be the perfect tribute to my mother," says Bessilyn. "I know how proud she would be to see her sandtarts travel into space."
Six sandtart cookies for a mere $2.75 are a regular feature on The Italian Cafe's dessert menu. Shipping is available worldwide—and now off the planet.
(via PR Newswire)
The Houston Chronicle is reporting that John Tesar has joined DRG Concepts in Dallas. As we reported, Tesar recently left his position at his self-named Woodlands restaurant.
DRG operates the Dallas Chop House, Dallas Fish Market, Fish Express, and GoFish. The company announced that Tesar will be working on recipe, menu development, and concept development alongside Corporate Chef Anupam "AJ" Joglekar.
(via Fork and Cork)
We're always on the lookout for new places to eat near the Woodlands, and we received a great tip about a new place. Called South Street Dining, it's an ambitious new spot on Kuykendahl between the Woodlands and 2920.
We've not visited yet, but from their description:
The chicness of New York hits the heart of Texas in the form of South Street Dining. Here a contemporary atmosphere blends with a creative menu to create a tempting dining destination for locals and travelers alike. The menu is brimming with delightful creations and specialties, with large and small steak portions available. Diners will especially love the tableside service of Chateaubriand that keeps this classic dish fresh and flavorful. Of course, there's an excellent wine list, extensive Scotch collection, and other drink choices to complement every selection. Dining under the restaurant's stone accents and beautiful rustic lighting create a truly memorable experience.
We can't wait to see if the food and experience lives up to the description. Look for a full review as soon as we check 'em out.
With the whirlwind departure of Chef John Tesar from his self-named restaurant in the Woodlands, we were concerned that the kitchen might be losing its mojo. After all, John Tesar, the bad boy chef depicted in Anthony Bourdain's Kitchen Confidential, had to be the heart and soul of the place. His sudden departure left us wondering what would become of Tesar's, and of a spectacular hamburger, the Magic.
We decided to find out. We visited for lunch with a foodie friend, and looked for changes.
And we found them.
The first thing we noticed were subtle changes in the bar / informal dining room. New linens provided a crisp yet relaxed feel. Gone were the signs with John Tesar's cartoon likeness, something we always thought was slightly cheesy.
The service was as prompt and professional as always. We've dined here a half-dozen times, and our server remembered us and our preferences. The entire vibe of the restaurant was significantly more relaxed and upbeat than before.
Our server suggested that we try a new appetizer, and we took her advice. What appeared was a lovely tuna tartare, expertly presented over a bed of crushed ice.
The dish combined coarsely chopped tuna, a bit of wasabi-tapiko roe and roasted cashews. It was served over a mango puree dusted with sesame seeds. The result was outstanding; the tropical sweetness of the mango balanced the Asian tang of the wasabi, and the cashews provided a crunchy, smoky counterpoint to the aquatic flavor of the tender, fresh tuna. The roe snapped delightfully on the tongue, adding a small surprise that made us smile.
Next was the main course - the Magic burger, a cheeseburger we consider to be among Houston's very best. Would the departure of John Tesar ruin this work of beefy art?
We were greeted by this beautifully arranged creation, flanked by the assortment of pickles and the addictive cherry tomatoes marinated with aged balsamic vinegar. These accouterments had lost none of their zing. But it was time to sample the burger.
We've tried the Magic on several occasion, but it appears that the new talent in the kitchen has taken this already superlative burger to new heights. There's something slightly different about the beef; the flavor was even more sublime, and the ooze factor was slighly higher, and perfectly balanced with the melty cheese.
Our curiosity was now piqued; who is the talent behind this even-better burger and the wonderful new appetizer?
The answer comes in two parts. With the departure of Chef Tesar, two of his sous chefs have been promoted to Co-Executive Chefs. "Co-Executive Chefs"? At first this seemed odd to us, but after talking with the chefs, it makes perfect sense.
Helming the kitchen are the new Dynamic Duo - Chef Austin Simmons (left) and Chef Jeramie Robison Jeremy Robinson. They've been working at Tesar's since it opened. Both have a strong background working with some of the best in the business, having spent time in the kitchens of John Tesar and Wolfgang Puck. Each has a slightly different specialty; Chef Simmons focuses on the meat dishes, and Chef Robison's passion is with the fish.
This arrangement is eminently suited to Tesar's. On one hand, it's a modern steak house, with a wonderful selection of steaks and superlative hamburgers. On the other, it's a contemporary seafood restaurant, featuring fish from the Gulf Coast and those flown in from around the world. While it is certainly possible to be a creative genius who can execute both meat and fish dishes, the Simmons/Robison approach has great merit. These two talented chefs can bounce ideas off of each other, and while each can focus on his particular area of focus, both can contribute ideas to the other side of the menu.
Talking with these two chefs was a delight. Unlike some executive chefs who believe that they're God's gift to cooking (we won't mention any names) these young men are focused on delighting their patrons, and enjoy the fact that they can practice an art that "they are pretty good at".
If our meal was any indication, "pretty good" doesn't come close to describing their talent.
We walked in concerned that Tesar's would go down hill with the departure of John Tesar. Now we're confident that Austin Simmons and Jeromy Robison will take this restaurant to even greater heights. There are now two more young chefs to watch in the Houston area.
Keep an eye on these two.
