Every year, the nationwide city guide Citysearch sponsors a Best of Houston contest. It's a contest where Citysearch users vote to name the best local business in a variety of categories.
This year's contest had some peculiar results.
Best Lunch Spot: The Barbed Rose in Alvin
Heck, none might even know of the restaurant's existence.
Apparently The Barbed Rose conducted some sort of grass-roots campaign, complete with bribes incentives for those voting for them. And apparently it was conducted on a large enough scale that a small restaurant in Alvin was able to win all of these categories in America's fourth largest city.
Our comment about "incentives" was based on information from two sources who say they received these incentives. We'll let you decide who's telling the truth.
After a bit more back and forth, we were told "I'm not sure of the exact details implemented by our product team, but needless to say there will be improvements." and "Your feedback allows me to make recommendations to our home office and product leads to make this better."
Further discussion caused the Citysearch rep to add "We've have been working on our BOC product well before today, I assure you."
As someone who tries to seek out the best food in Houston and tell the world about it, I'm disgusted by Citysearch's complicity in this gross act of deception. It calls into question any recommendation or suggestion made by that site. It also calls into questions the ethics of those associated with The Barbed Rose.
I'd suggest that anyone looking to advertise their restaurant or other local business think long and hard before doing business with Citysearch.
I'd suggest that anyone looking for restaurant recommendations look elsewhere.
And I'd suggest that if you're looking for a great meal, you might not want to buy into any hype associated with The Barbed Rose.
We've been keeping up with a new project opening downtown, and were excited to be invited for the Friends and Family preview. Called Samba Grille, it's a Brazilian restaurant offering rodizio service, and it's located in the center of the Theater District in the Bayou Place center.
Walking in, we were immediately taken by the swank surroundings. The Texas Avenue location is sleek and sophisticated, yet the warm Latin vibe makes it very inviting. A well-equipped bar hugs the back wall of the room, and the tables and booths are placed in a multi-level arrangement, adding to the sense of intimacy and romance. This is without a doubt a romantic restaurant - we expect it to be a very popular date destination.
(The only negative about the intimate, romantic setting is that natural light photos with the iPhone 4 didn't come out well. Thus there aren't any food photos in this article. The paparazzi should find this frustrating, too.)
Lead by partners Nathan Ketcham and Estella Erdmann, the team behind Samba Grille is a strong one. Chef Cesar Rodriguez is at the helm in the kitchen, and his experience with the Vallone organization has translated into the kind of smooth consistency that you rarely see in a new establishment. Sommelier Marc Borel, previously with 13 Celsius, brings his studied approach to a carefully edited wine list, and he's fully up to the challenge of suggesting pairings with the broad rodizio and composed offerings coming out of Chef Rodriguez's kitchen.
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| Marc Borel, Nathan Ketcham, Estella Erdmann, Cesar Rodriguez Photo credit: Chuck Cook / @Bitspitter |
Let's look at what the kitchen brought forth. (And remember, Samba hasn't even had its soft opening - the kitchen is just sorting things out at this point.)
First out was a Caesar salad, and it was a very auspicious start. The romaine lettuce was deftly coated with a tart, briny Caesar dressing, sharp with plenty of bite and anchovy flavor. Large, thin shavings of fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese completed the salad. It was one of the best Caesar's we've had in Houston.
Next up was the vegetable plate, an artistically composed arrangement of flash-fried yucca, sauteed Peppadew peppers, sweet plantains, and thin green beans. The careful handling exhibited by these veggies was impressive; the yucca was crispy on the outside yet fluffy and tender within; the Peppadews were sweetly spicy and not overpowering. The plantains were rich and flavorful, and we dabbed a bit of the house chimmi-churri sauce on top. The green beans were al dente and had a nice snap.
But the centerpiece of a rodizio is the meat, and Samba rolled out an impressive variety. The presentation is dramatic - servers circulate with large swords impaling the savory chunks of meat and seafood, slicing off a portion as requested. The servers displayed an uncanny ability to deliver the precise degree of doneness I requested, and seemed to magically appear just as I'd finished the previous portion.
The bacon-wrapped filet was a walnut-sized nugget of bacon-wrapped beef, deliciously smoky and peppery. The dark, earthy-sweet flavor of the bacon infused the filet, making for a very satisfying start.
Next up was the house-special sirloin. This was a standout among the very good offerings - a rich, robust, beefy swagger, sliced very thin, yet were still juicy and tender. We came back for seconds (and thirds) on this one.
Broiled shrimp came out next. The large shrimp were nicely firm and cooked to just the right point; the delicate buttery herbal baste completed the preparation.
Large, baseball-sized chunks of filet mignon came out next. Cooked to a beautiful medium rare, the flavor was gentle and delicate, a skillful counterpoint to the bold flavors of many of the other beef servings.
A real surprise were the bacon-wrapped chicken breasts. A sweetly tangy apple flavor infused the chicken (no doubt the result of some slow, careful brining) and offset the peppery bacon. Another dish we could have eaten all night.
Another surprise were the pork ribs, atypical for rodizio service. Gently grilled, the dense, chewy pork provided a textural contrast to the tender, silky beef.
Speaking of silky, our final offering of flank steak was very unusual. Prepared on the rare side of medium rare, it was almost supernaturally tender and luscious. This cut of beef was even richer than the filet, and had a smooth mouthfeel that was totally unexpected. We suspect some very artful grillwork here.
There were other rodizio offerings, but at this point were were simply too full to sample them. I blame multiple samples of the sirloin; it was something we kept eating more of.
Samba's grand opening is auspiciously scheduled for Brazil's Independence Day, September 7. Considering how well things were running during this sneak preview, I have a feeling that it's going to be an event to remember. We'll see you there.
(For another early look at Samba Grille, check out Phaedra Cook's article on Houston Food Adventures.)
Samba Grille - 530 Texas Avenue - www.SambaGrilleHouston.com
UPDATE: Caffe Bello closed in the Spring of 2011.
I make no bones about it - I'm a big fan of Tony Vallone, and I think his restaurants set the standard that few others in town can even approach. From the food to the service to the setting, Tony and his staff show an attention to detail that is rare in the restaurant business.
(The Vallones are also clients of mine. Ever since my friend Jack Tyler introduced me to Tony almost a decade ago, my company has created all of the web sites for Vallone restaurants, from the original pre-Landry's Grotto to Ciao Bello, and of course for his flagship, Tony's. And as a foodie, they are the best client I could ever have, because every meeting involves wonderful food, and the opportunity to learn from Tony, his son Jeff, Chef Bruce McMillian, their young front-of-the-house wizard Scott Sulma, and the rest of their team of extraordinary minds. It's like being a baseball fan, and being asked to create something for the Yankees.)
So I was very happy to hear from Tony and his son Jeff about the new concept for a restaurant they were creating in Montrose, to be called Caffe Bello. The excitement in Tony's voice was palpable. Caffe Bello really was to be something different, targeted at a young, hip, Montrose crowd, while still maintaining the signature Vallone touches that lift their restaurants above the ordinary. Most restaurateurs who had 45 years under their belts would be coasting, but Tony was visibly excited by the challenge of bringing his art to a whole new generation of patrons.
Caffe Bello is an Italian restaurant, of course. That's what the Vallones do best. But what would Tony bring to Montrose, the epicenter of hip and cool? Driving down lower Westheimer one encounters a veritable who's who of hot, trendy restaurants, with places like Feast, Indika, and Dolce Vita each doing a brisk business. In this setting that craves the new and different, how would Houston's iconic establishment restaurateur create a restaurant to surprise and delight this finicky neighborhood?
The answer: Tony would do this the way he does everything else: By adapting to his customers, and creating for them something unique. And exceeding expectations, which are already high, given the Vallone name attached to the project.
Upon entering Caffe Bello on its first Friday night, we were surprised by how different the space feels. This isn't Tony's with its soaring ceilings and world-class art grabbing your eye. Nor was it Amici, feeling upscale and casual and filled with families and couples on dates. This was edgy -- a long narrow room along Westhimer, exposed brick, no tablecloths. It's fairly dark. A bar hugs one end of the room. It felt more like the Village or SoHo in Manhattan than near downtown Houston.
One new Vallone trademark grabbed us immediately - stunning abstract works by John Palmer. Palmer's canvasses captured the edgy energy of the room, and reflected it back.
The edge extends into the back of the house, with chef Michael Dei Maggi, formerly of Max's Wine Dive and the Rockwood Room helming the kitchen. Chef Dei Maggi is the kind of chef you'd never picture working with Tony Vallone - sporting numerous tatoos that speak volumes about his cutting edge sensibilities. But a look through Dei Maggi's previous gigs shows the sort of creative flair that Montrose craves - he's the type of chef who's looking forward, never backward. We've been a fan of Chef Dei Maggi's work, and were looking forward to seeing how he and Tony would work together.
The youth isn't just in the kitchen. Scott Sulma is a partner in this project. For those who don't know him, Scott is the twentysomething general manager of Tony's, the Vallone's flagship restaurant and considered by many to be the finest restaurant in Texas. Scott brings an intuitive grasp of hospitality and organization to Caffe Bello; he is simply unflappable in very demanding situations, and the fact that a man in his 20's can rise so high in the Vallone organization is testament to his ability.
We drove into Montrose from the Woodlands, and handed off our car to the valet. After a very brief wait, we were seated. The restaurant was going through its soft opening, and hadn't advertised its presence, but the buzz had already started in Montrose, and the dining room was full. It turned out that we were at a table next to Tony, his wife Donna, and their daughter Lauri, there to enjoy dinner and make sure the new store was up to speed.
We perused menu, and were immediately taken by the tightly edited menu of unique offerings. A variety of pizzetta (small, individual pizzas), none of which looked familiar to us. A meatball burger. A chicken-fried sirloin. And a variety of other dishes you'd never seen on the menu at Tony's, Ciao Bello or Amici.
We couldn't wait to order.
First came the bread service - instead of the expected basket, it was placed on a sheet of brown paper, and casually arranged. Of course, being a Vallone joint, the casual arrangement somehow looked effortlessly artistic.
The breads were warm, housemade, and had surprisingly complex flavors - we fought over the dense, chewy, sweet roll, and fortunately more were quickly delivered when ours was devoured.
We jumped around the menu, ordering items that looked most fascinating. First up was a pizzetta - one with bresaola (thinly sliced cured beef) pear, taleggio and Italian truffle honey.
Rarely am I a fan of what I call "designer" pizza - I am a devoted pepperoni guy. But this pizza was outstanding - bubbly, crispy, slightly sweet crust, dense, chewy, smoky beef, creamy and herby white cheese, and the tangy bite of the pears made this a dish we'll be reordering as soon as possible. Even my lovely bride, who is not a terribly adventurous diner, found herself drawn to this creation. A pity, because that meant I had to share it with her. But love conquered... at least this time.
While I dolefully watched my wife enjoy her last slice of pizza, Tony caught my eye from the next table. He handed me a plate, and on that plate was a sandwich. As was the theme for the evening, it was no ordinary sandwich.
First, half of it was missing, and Tony's wry smile let me know who had tested it. Second, it was a veal cutlet grinder, containing a gently breaded slice of veal, some fresh mozzarella, roasted peppers and greens, and it was served on a housemade ciabatta bun. The bite of the peppers, the smooth, lush cream of the mozzarella, and the mild beefy flavor of the veal played together like a well-practiced band, with each ingredient playing well on its own, but the combination being so much more than the sum of the parts.
This demostrated something I learned years ago - if Tony or Jeff suggests something, do not pass it up. And if Tony orders something for himself, prepare to be wowed.
Tony was very interested to know what I thought of the dish, and he was very happy when I raved about it. His interest caught me off guard when he asked for my feedback the first time, many years ago. The man is a true master of the culinary arts, yet his humility is a guiding force... he really wants to know what makes each and every guest happy, and he will figure out how to give it to them. He's built a very successful business doing so, and his patrons display the sort of loyalty that is unheard of in the restaurant industry. There's a reason for this.
Back to the food. Next out of the kitchen were the diver scallops saltimbocca.
We've always enjoyed Tony's seafood offerings, but this was something totally different. Rich, silky, just-past-al dente scallops were blanketed in thick-sliced, earthy prosciutto, and a sharp, sour caper agresto added a bold note. Served with tomato and grilled asparagus, this small plate demonstrated convincingly that combining the deft Vallone approach with daring Dei Maggi strokes was going to lead us in some deliciously unexpected directions.
After a brief break, it was time for the entree. I love chicken-fried steaks, and I honestly never expected to see one served at a Vallone place. But here it is:
Unsurprisingly, this is not a typical chicken-fried steak. Tender sirloin was hand-breaded, and topped with truffle cream gravy - the mild, soulful truffles were a nice bonus. The accompaniment for this dish was the side of whipped potatoes, highlighted with reggiano cheese. We've never before encountered a chicken-fried steak that spoke to us with an Italian accent, but we're glad we tried this one. The quality of the meat alone made a huge difference, and adding the Italian accent elevated this dish to new heights.
Around this time Jeff Vallone wandered over, and said we had to try something. In this case, "something" proved to be their orecchiette pasta, a simple but unique dish composed of pasta, rapini, grape tomatoes, and breadcrumbs.
Breadcrumbs? The breadcrumbs were crunchy, and added a delightfully new texture to the slightly tart pasta dish, and the rapini added an assertive bitterness that was deftly offset by the acid from the tomatoes. Again, the rule of thumb: If Tony or Jeff suggests something, do not pass it up.
At this point, I was so full as to nearly be in pain, but I've learned that I cannot bring my bride or our daughter to a Vallone restaurant without ordering dessert. Thankfully, they were doing the selecting at this point, so in my food-induced haze I sat back and watched what came out: First were petite, housemade ice cream sandwiches.
Both the cookies and the ice cream were housemade; we were particularly taken with the strawberry, which was lusciously creamy and studded with pea-sized chunks of fresh strawberry.
The end of the meal was a staple of any Vallone dessert menu - Elizabeth's cheesecake. Finally we'd get something that was familiar. Or so I thought.
This was a remarkable juxtaposition of the familiar with the new - the silky, lutescent filling and the delightfully crispy crust were present and accounted for, but the serving was a bold rectangle, the topping was thick, rich caramel sprinkled with nuts, lightly caramelized bananas were sliced on the side, and a smear of delicate, ambrisial butterscotch sauce punctuated the service. Apparently even family icons are not safe from the twists that come forth from Chef Dei Maggi's mind.
This remarkable meal speaks volumes about how well things can turn out when you assemble a team with culinary talent and let them do what they do best. And we were again amazed (although by now we should expect it) that a restaurateur who's been successful for over four decades can create a new, cutting edge restaurant, and delight an audience that probably wasn't born when he opened his first location.
I've been accused more than once of being a fan of Tony Vallone's, and I cannot dispute this. Tony is the textbook definition of a master restaurateur: His restaurants are considered to be among the very best anywhere, and he's been keeping them there for over four decades.
Caffe Bello shows that the master hasn't lost his touch, and that he's assembled a team that can translate the legendary Vallone experience into one that will be embraced by a cutting-edge audience. I think that sums up Tony's philosophy:
The food will always be changing, but excellence never goes out of style.
Caffe Bello - 322 Westheimer - 713-520-5599 - CaffeBello.com
THE WOODLANDS - Chef Jeromy Robison announced today that he and Chef Austin Simmons have left Tesars restaurant in the Woodlands to pursue other opportunities.
We're big fans of the work that Jeromy and Austin have been doing, and wish them well in their future endeavors. We have a feeling that they'll be back in a kitchen soon, and hopefully will remain in the Houston area.
UPDATE: Chef Jeromy Robison has been named Chef d'Cuisine at Uchi Austin, and Chef Austin Simmons is Executive Chef at Hubbell & Hudson in the Woodlands.
Hubcap Grill, one of downtown Houston's best burger spots, has a new way to extend its reach. Following the lead of successful cooks in Houston and Austin, they've gone mobile, with the Hubcap Grill Burger Truck.
The truck will be circulating around town, hitting the Montrose, Washington Avenue, and Heights areas. They'll be working both lunch and dinner.
Foodies will get together whenever there's something interesting to eat. But one group of foodies is getting together, and the reason is far more noble.
The reason? Helping in the fight against Multiple Sclerosis. In this case, to raise money, and ride across Texas in the 2010 MS 150.
Sunny Bogden (@sunkneelion)
Melanie Campbell (@mctello)
Gus Tello (@gtello)
Matt Cuddihy (@mattcuddihy)
Jenn Molholt (@treelight)
Plinio Sandalio (@psandalio)
Erika Mandeville (@hungrysmalls)
Sheri Davidson (@sheridavidson)
Jonathan Platon (@bondbuddha)
Greg Lopp (@greglopp)
Sharon Stinson (@sharonmoves)
Kris Hayes (@krishayes)
Sara Proffitt (@sproffitt)
Renae Virata
Carlo Soli
The team has its own Twitter presence: @teamliverstrong
Want to support the team? Visit the team web site and make your donation. It's for a great cause.
Perhaps the best thing a foodie can do is to discover a new restaurant, and explore its menu. But how many can we sample each week? The short answer - fewer than we'd like.
The Houston Press has a solution - its Menu of Menus Extravaganza. This annual event (now going on its 8th year) showcases over thirty restaurants, and also features wine, beer, and liquor tastings.
Participating restaurants include Laurenzo’s, Fins Seafood, Sushi & Grill, Tinto’s Spanish Restaurant & Wine Bar, Italiano’s Restaurant, Textile, Kahn’s Deli, Ooh La La Dessert Bakery, Bodegas, Taco Shop, Rice Thai Kitchen, Ritter’s Frozen Custard, Harry’s Restaurant, Shipley Do-Nuts, Auntie Chang’s Dumpling House, Kaneyama Japanese, Tampico Seafood & Cocina Mexicana, Thai Bistro Restaurant, Lucky’s Pub, Cork Soakers, The Teahouse Tapioca & Tea, My Dee Dee’s Pie Shoppe & Deli, tasti D-Lite, Alamo Drafthouse Theater, Sushi King, Anothai Cuisine, Last Concert Café, Nelore Churrascaria, Danton’s Gulf Coast Seafood Kitchen, Hearsay Gastro Lounge, Rudyard’s Pub, Two Saints Restaurant, Tila’s Restaurante & Bar, Georgia’s Farm to Market, Mumbai Spice, Dosey Doe Coffee House, Fruituzy, Fadi’s Mediterranean Grill, Simply Splendid, Kim Son, Blue Nile Ethiopian Cuisine and House of Blues.
As you'd expect, there will be entertainment. It turns out that it's one of our favorite local bands, Faye Robinson & The Mid City Players. We've seen 'em several times at Sammy's, and they put on a wonderful show, always to a packed house.
Where? West Ave, at 2920 Kirby.
The event is Tuesday, April 13th, 2010, from 7pm to 10pm for general admission guests. VIPs get in an hour earlier.
Get your tickets direct from the Houston Press. All proceeds benefit Discovery Green and The Center for Hearing and Speech.
The event is sponsored by LikeMe.Net, Momentum Audi, Momentum Volkswagen, Georgia’s Farm to Market, West Ave, Flowers by Nino, Admiral Linen, Nauset Concepts and 104.1 KRBE.
See y'all there!
Bessilyn Piazza's sandtart cookies are out of this world—or soon will be. Recently approved to hitch a ride on the Space Shuttle Discovery (scheduled for an April 5 launch), Mrs. Piazza's cookies are headed to the International Space Station.
The melt-in-your-mouth cookies have been enjoyed by patrons of Bessilyn's restaurant, The Italian Cafe in Seabrook, for over 20 years. But when one customer requested a batch of cookies for special delivery, NASA called in the order. The customer is Colonel Timothy J. Creamer, Flight Engineer and NASA Science Officer, who is currently living and working aboard the International Space Station. Following standard procedure for crew requests, NASA contacted Bessilyn and obtained a batch of cookies for microbiological testing. One week later, the space-bound "to go" order was approved.
"My feet haven't touched the ground since I received the news," says Bessilyn. "This is something I never dreamed would happen. I'm still on cloud nine."
The original sandtart recipe hails from Bessilyn's late mother, who baked the Italian wedding-style cookies for years for The Italian Cafe. As demand for the cookies grew by the dozen, Bessilyn relieved her mother of the rolling pin and rolled up her own sleeves. She's been up to her elbows in flour ever since.
"When these cookies board the Space Shuttle in April, it will be the perfect tribute to my mother," says Bessilyn. "I know how proud she would be to see her sandtarts travel into space."
Six sandtart cookies for a mere $2.75 are a regular feature on The Italian Cafe's dessert menu. Shipping is available worldwide—and now off the planet.
(via PR Newswire)
The Houston Chronicle is reporting that John Tesar has joined DRG Concepts in Dallas. As we reported, Tesar recently left his position at his self-named Woodlands restaurant.
DRG operates the Dallas Chop House, Dallas Fish Market, Fish Express, and GoFish. The company announced that Tesar will be working on recipe, menu development, and concept development alongside Corporate Chef Anupam "AJ" Joglekar.
(via Fork and Cork)
We're always on the lookout for new places to eat near the Woodlands, and we received a great tip about a new place. Called South Street Dining, it's an ambitious new spot on Kuykendahl between the Woodlands and 2920.
We've not visited yet, but from their description:
The chicness of New York hits the heart of Texas in the form of South Street Dining. Here a contemporary atmosphere blends with a creative menu to create a tempting dining destination for locals and travelers alike. The menu is brimming with delightful creations and specialties, with large and small steak portions available. Diners will especially love the tableside service of Chateaubriand that keeps this classic dish fresh and flavorful. Of course, there's an excellent wine list, extensive Scotch collection, and other drink choices to complement every selection. Dining under the restaurant's stone accents and beautiful rustic lighting create a truly memorable experience.
We can't wait to see if the food and experience lives up to the description. Look for a full review as soon as we check 'em out.